@barry
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That is why it is called “Crackle”.
The original circuit that sells for hundreds does the same thing. It’s a negative feedback control like the old 60s recording console inputs which crackled when you adjusted them too.
Read the features section of this add:
https://www.buyanalogman.com/ZVex_Super_Hard_On_p/zvex-super-hard-on.htm
Glad I could help and I am glad you like the on-board pot changes. You may be surprised at the tone you can get by running our MKC directly into the ColorTone Overdriver or the Stage 3 Booster after it or all 3 in tandem.
I am assuming you are referring to the ColorTone Overdriver.
The Gain structure is exactly as the original circuit intended. It was meant to be used as a boost. Some guitarists like David Gilmour and Jan Akkerman made it famous by cranking it up full for certain songs. This setting of Fuzz was only available in the last tweak of a turn from 4:30 to 5:00 being full up.
Fuzz at 3:00 to 5:00 as you report sounds about right. Also to be considered are the type of pickups being used and amplifier gain settings. These are all part of the entire circuit and have a major affect on how the pedal will sound. Gilmour used a Strat on live recordings of Have A Cigar 1975 and that is the extent of his Fuzz. When he needed more he used additional circuits for that either on their own or in tandem such as Muff and Fuzz Face.
Jan Akkerman uses a Les Paul and as a result has much more available Fuzz.
So based on those tones it may help you to decide if the circuit is working correctly. Additionally consider what amplifier you are using and where you have those gain controls set. The ColorTone Overdriver is a Boost to Medium Gain circuit by nature. If you want more fuzz then try the Overdriver in tandem with a different circuit like the ColorTone Supa Fuzz, Muff or Sriracha Fuzz.
The Bass control is not an Active Boost so it will not increase the bass, only cut. Based on that you may wish to check for a fault.
I hope that helps.
You need to connect the Purple lines from the wiring board In and Out to the Tone TwEQ “T” pads. Those are the audio path. The pads you are currently connected to are the extra grounds.
Our newer 2020 version of the Tone TwEQ also has those pads highlighted in white as well as a little “G” by each ground pad. Even better they now have multiple power and ground pads so it will be easier to power the next board in a chain.
Here is an image of the updated board for reference:
Enjoy the Updated 2020 Build Document here.
If you want to use 9mm pots you can solder them in a nice, even row that will line up nicely with the main board.
Then you can use a “standing” trimmer for the Volume to use as a set and forget Volume control on the inside of the enclosure. Like most EQ, Volume or Level controls, it is not something you are going to change that much. It is just another way of doing things should you decide to go that route.
As a final thought if you find a trimmer setting that works perfect for you then you could take a measurement of the value and eventually substitute the trimmer for a single resistor.
It is always nice to see someone pay attention to tandem builds and mods.
That would absolutely be thee most versatile Ratt yet, excellent dressing and beautiful wrapper.
I think one should expect some noise when pushing a 3 stage fuzz circuit using Germanium transistors to the limit.
At the same time the noise should not be louder than the signal going to the amp.
Consider checking your grounds, shortening your leads on the transistors, keeping all power wiring away from audio wiring (dressing) and only test in the enclosure with the back on. Use only the one pedal in a test with only two good cables straight to amp (no chains when testing). You could also put a 2.1mm end on a battery strap to test for line noise since a battery will not produce any noise.
A free trick would be to swap around transistors and see what you hear. If there is too much hiss still you can mod the capacitors at C3, C6 and C7 by increasing their value till you block out the hiss frequency (do this at all three locations). You could try 470p, 500p or higher. Being this is a high, hiss frequency it will not really affect your actual guitar tone trying those values. I would have no qualms about doing that. Please note that mods are not going to be part of kits and due to the nature of Germanium transistors results will vary to a large degree.
I hope that helps.
Anything from 4.5v to 6.5 v is great.
The higher the voltage the more aggressive to a point within that range I feel.
Looks like you incorporated a piece of pick guard? I like it!
Another excellent combo and thanks for sharing.
This really is not a question for GuitarPCB but people are welcome to respond.
Your answer would be found by starting here:
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/LED-driver-circuit.php
Also read the comment section which seems like a good place to post your questions.I just noticed you said low B string. I think that many 4 string Bass Players have used this circuit and like it the way that it is. That said many Bass players are using 5 string guitars as well as lower tunings depending on music styles. With that in mind it may be advantageous to swap that capacitor out to a higher value. A 220n is more than enough to accommodate a 5 string Bass guitar. Another alternative that is even more flexible would be to add the circuit to a Buff N Blend inside the same enclosure since this would give you Blendable options.
Note: The Mini-Me circuit inverts the phase which is of no consequence until you use it in a Parallel arrangement such as the Buff N Blend. To correct the phase you would simply need to insert our Stage 3 Booster in series after the Mini-Me before connecting it to the Buff N Blend.
As a result you will not only have a phase corrected circuit that you can now Blend but you will have the additional clean boosted control of the Stage 3 further adding to the overall tonality.
So after a maddening week, so far (so as not to jinx myself) everything seems to be working good as far as being able to post. Also do not forget about other features using the Main Menu Bar at the top of every page. Like under GuitarPCB Forum dropdown there is other items to checkout like Members and My Account. The Examples section has a lot of customer builds over the last 13 years as well.
If somebody would have told me before starting this business just how many “Cap’n” hats I would have to wear to be able to successfully run a website & forum there might not be a GuitarPCB. Fortunately I was not forewarned and I have had plenty of help and encouragement along the way as I stumble through the swamp of just keeping a website and forum running smoothly all the while building and updating products for the shop and of course packing orders.
All in all though I would never change a thing about those decisions and thoroughly enjoy my work.
I also enjoy seeing all the productivity from all of the members here. Quite a good feeling.
Lets hope the fixes made hold up!
so are we still having forum issues as i am seeing the same gutshot twice in two different posts I mean.
Now that I look at this post using an iPad I see a blank frame on the very first picture posted. When using a PC I see all pictures and posts. This is making me crazy just a bit trying to figure out what is going on with WordPress.
that said thanks for posting looks great!
