@barry
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I would suggest that you carefully re-flow all of your solder joints both on-board and off-board.
I see many suspect solder joints.
Check that your pedal is properly grounded.
I have never experienced this issue.
You may want to upload clear pictures.
That is an awesome combo! Very useful.
I am glad you took the extra time to put that together just the way you wanted it.
Thanks for sharing.
Comparing the loudness of two completely different circuits is not critical. The gain structure of every circuit is not going to be identical since different pedal designers made their circuits to suit their own individual criteria.
What I would be asking to determine if there is an issue is if the circuit is loud enough. More specifically, does the circuit offer a bit more “loudness” when the circuit is activated, than when the circuit is switched off? That is what is important. If the answer is no, then you have a problem to sort out, as I would never allow the release of a product that could not easily achieve “unity gain”.
Note that you should not have to turn everything full up to achieve unity gain.
There are many things that could cause this but most revolve around the same idea.
Only use the Squishy Octopus by itself when testing. Do not place in any sort of loop, or chain, for basic troubleshooting.
If plugged in by itself, and you still get a static noise, then experiment with different guitars if you can because it could be a result of pickups being too close to the strings or just very high output pickups. The optical compressor is sensitive to what ever is in front of it which is why it should be first in your chain, only seeing the guitar signal. Doing a few quick tests can help you sort that out.
You can roll the volume of your guitar down to half and see if it is still an issue to help you figure it all out.
I think you did everything right here.
Fully modded Klon style circuit with a Bluesbreaker/Afterblaster circuit and order switching.
Perfect! I bet this sounds awesome and is extremely versatile.
This is the result of two image typos on the populated image. I will correct.
D1 is correct with the stripe facing down following the board silkscreen as you have built it.
R16 was accidentally populated on the populated image. I will remove it though it would not cause your build not to work. You can just clip it out.
R31 should be 47R per the schematic but 10R will work. This is for power and not in the audio path.
The only thing that would be an issue is if you put D1 in upside down by not choosing the board silkscreen orientation, but your board image above is correct.
Did you try adjusting the trimmer by ear till you hear phasing? Make sure your Rate Knob is turned up to make it easier to dial in.
If anyone else sees anything by all means pop in.
The BnBlend circuit does not have a blocking capacitor installed on the SEND line from the J113/MPF102. This is because most effects circuits to be installed in the effects loop already contain a blocking capacitor at their input. Therefore any DC on that line will be blocked before it enters the effect circuit. AND, most folks will not bypass the effect by using the effect’s switch but rather by using the BnB bypass switch.
In this case, the BYOC effect installed contains a bypass switch BEFORE the signal reaches the blocking capacitor in the circuit. This could cause popping when that switch is actuated.
If you leave that switch active and use the BnBlend bypass switch as intended to activate or bypass the effects loop, you will not hear any popping.
Another solution is to install another blocking capacitor in series with the SEND circuit. A 10uF can be installed right at the SEND jack.
Just wow! Thanks for sharing.
That is a great example of a combo build. Extremely useful.
Combos are a wonderful way to make it all yours.
I would love to hear more as you have time to give it a go.
I am not sure I understand.
You say “I have wired the two boards as per the main instructions that come with the Muff’n. Basically disables the tone circuit part of the Muff and taken over by the TwEq.”
So if you have not installed the tone section components on the board and plan on inserting the Tone TwEQ in place of the Muff’n tone section then this is fine of course and probably a better choice than wiring each complete circuit separately in series since having two tone sections for the final circuit is kind of redundant and probably counter intuitive.
So if this is what you are doing then you will of course need to insert (wire) the Tone TwEQ into the Muff’n board to bypass all of the Tone components including “Tone Pot” and complete the circuit. Verify your insert positions by using the schematic. Use your DMM continuity feature to verify the correct J3(1) and J4(2) Pads.
If this is your plan but you did install the tone components that would have not been necessary but you can leave them in there since you are bypassing them anyway. I would remove the Tone Pot if installed to get it out of the way.
Then you only have to wire the IN and Outs of the Muff’n to the loop of the Buff N Blend per the build document since the Tone TwEQ is inserted into the Muff’n circuit to replace the Muff’n tone section.
VERIFY and test the Muff’n with the Tone TwEQ inserted before attempting to place the final circuit into the Buff N Blend loop.
If this was not your approach then you will need to be more specific.
There is more than one way to wire. It depends on what you want.
Experience with working with pedals would help tremendously to determine what you want.
You may wire them in series as the guides show you.
The Buff N Blend is wired as the Build document shows and covers the bypass foot switch. Instead of placing just one circuit between the send and return you would simply be putting two circuits in series between the send and return.
My advice would be to build the Muff’n and Tone TwEQ separately and test each one first to verify both are working properly before trying to put them together in series in the Buff N Blend loop or you could have an impossible mess to figure out if it all does not work the first time.
READ: DO NOT POST QUESTIONS HERE!!!
Go to the SUPPORT Forum for asking questions.
The GBOF still follows the exact same layout. so you can get these by going to the Guides Page.
This is the C50:
This is the only image I have for the OKF. It is for the GBOF though:
This is all I can find for the Zenith v2 (nothing previous):
You will need to download and Zoom In with whatever photo viewer you use.
Image for original OKF is gone.
Image for Super Trooper is gone.
If someone else has these please put them here. I will continue trying to find them. They are not available in my backups either but I may have hard copies which I am still trying to find from over a decade ago and I am not sure where they are at.
