@barry
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Excellent job SteveO and thank you for posting!
I look forward to hearing some more updates as you have time to check it out.
That looks fantastic and thank you for sharing.
I appreciate the insight into your build and thank you for the compliment.
I mentioned on a different thread which I believe you saw my thoughts on setting the trim pots for the Tweed section.
I will re-post that comment below.
“I wonder how did you tweak those trim resistors to taste”
That is exactly it.
I thought it would be best to leave that up to the individual, as it’s very subjective and allows for customizable options.
Even Neil Young says his personal 5E3 is unlike any other. You’ve described exactly what I was expecting: adjust the settings to your own taste to achieve the sound you desire.
I am glad to hear that. Thanks for reporting back.
Feel free to add my modification as well. You can use a DPDT switch to toggle between the 22n and stock capacitor connected to C16, creating a Bass/Guitar switch. A 10n capacitor is particularly effective with smaller amp cabinets.
Well done and thanks for sharing!
I love the colored knob choices. Reminds me of my Corsair keyboard.
How do you like all of the available tones?
I would start checking your resistor bands by color and verifying. Particularly around the tone sections.
This is one of the oldest circuits I have so you can try a forum search as well.
This demo shows my Les Paul with GBD and the Bass is at 1:00 and the Treble is at 11:00
Pedal has same settings used in the demo. I never changed them.
The switch you see at the top just changes C16 from 100n to 22n.
You can just lower C16 to 18n, or 22n.
Let me know how that works.
If your Les Paul is overly Bass heavy measure your pickup height with strings depressed at the 22nd fret and compare. Gibson recommends 3/32″ on the bass string side and 1/16″ on the treble string side.
I am glad to help.
The reason I was asking about Bypass sound is because if you cannot get Bypass then either the wiring is not correct or proper contact not being made by the connection. The latter could be a bad solder joint or just plain lack of contact.
You can easily test your contact points by using the Continuity Tester on your DMM.
The following image shows some important areas to test. (Some may not be identical as the guide is old.)
The best thing to do is use all of this as a valuable learning experience.
If you are getting another one, you can continue to test on this one.
Advice:
Before soldering wires to Jacks, or switch lugs be sure you have a strong mechanical connection first. Then solder. Also when soldering make sure the solder melts into the joint so it is not a ball sitting on top of the joint.
When redoing wire connections on a PCB pad it is not always necessary to clean the pad out with a tool. You can strip a new proper section of wire to be inserted and then while heating the back of the pad you can slip the new wire section through using the existing solder. It takes a bit of practice and some dexterous fingers.
Finally here is a video I made a long time ago.
It’s designed with beginners in mind, guiding them until they gain confidence. I demonstrate how to preheat a pad with time, which you can shorten as you improve. The intention is to support beginners, so hopefully, it will be beneficial.
Also I am not sure what is going on with that 3PDT switch but looks like it has a built in LED and it is probably not going to work right with that wiring board on top of it.
I would clip all the wires off the wiring board and get a new 3PDT switch. One that doesn’t have built in LED.
Then just mount the wires to the actual switch like the instructions. Especially since you already have an LED mounted to the main board.
Take your time and make a good connection with the wire on the 3PDT lugs and then solder in place one at a time.
Good, now you have the correct readings and proper voltages for the JFETs.
Do you have sound in Bypass mode?
So with power to the PCB there is power.
Work on the LED issue later. (You need to pick an LED location.)
I am not sure you are reporting the voltage to the JFETs correctly.
When looking straight down on the JFET and the top orientation is the same as the letter D
The top pin would be D for Drain. You are reporting 0v for Drain. It should be around half the supply voltage as you adjust the Trimmer associated with its JFET.
Make sure your supply voltage to the PCB is just a little over 9v. (Measure it with your DMM)
Once you get the Bias correct, or close, fix the wiring as nothing will work without that being correct. You should try to push the wiring through the PCB till it comes flush with the PVC and then solder on the opposite side the same as you would a capacitor or resistor.
Update: I also see it is wired incorrectly to the 3PDT wiring board.
You need to wire from the Main board to 3PDT – BI, and BO.
Then from 3PDT – I and O to the Jacks.
You have done the opposite.
More information is needed.
You say no power, or do you mean no sound?
Power can be tested with a Multimeter.
If it is no sound do you mean in active mode only? How about bypass?
- Did you bias the JFETs?
- What JFETs did you use?
- What are the voltage readings of each JFET.
