@barry
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
You can purchase sheets of white decal paper and apply them to your enclosure, followed by several coats of clear lacquer for protection.
Alternatively, you might prefer a simple sticker approach, as I demonstrate in the video below. These can also be lacquered over, or you could try a glaze or even a light coat of Armor All—just be sure the paper is fully cured before applying anything on top.
Some users have reported inkjet smearing, but I’ve personally never encountered that issue.
I do not have one to test as I sold it a long while ago.
Maybe this thread will help?
In particular he discusses this modification:
The BOM calls for 1N914/1N4148 silicon (@ ~0.7v Fvd) at D1 & D2 and changed them first to 1N34As and the overall effect went to hell. It seemed to result in an extremely minimalist auto-wah effect and the ‘quack’ was definitely less defined. So I went in the other direction with regard to the Fvd of D1 & D2 and socketed a pair of red LEDs @ 1.88v Fvd (matched). I’m convinced that using LEDs for D1 & D2 is a superior choice as they seem to open up amount the ‘quack’. Thinking I was fooling myself, I swapped back & forth a few times between the 1N914/1N4148s and the red LEDs at D1 & D2 to be sure. I definitely like the red LEDs in D1 & D2 better than 1N914/1N4148s. The difference is subtle – but noticeable.
There is a picture in the Build Document that shows it.
I would not be too critical over the distance.
Note: This combo is meant to be run at 9v.
The 7660 charge pump is only capable of handling 10v. Anything above that can fry it. Hopefully the zener diode will prevent that but it may not.There’s no reason to use 18v b/c you already have the Soldano running at +/-9 and the Klon side runs off +18v/-9v (for one half of the circuit at least). Both circuits already have as much headroom as needed by design. So, you should only use 9v max for the Mule Kicker.So glad you’re digging it! I think it might be one of my favorite boost/drive combos too. I just love how you can go from a big clean push to full-on distortion using each side on its own, stacking them, or flipping the order for something totally different. It’s such a fun and flexible setup.
✅ Suggested Use Order for the Mule Kicker Pro:
Order Combination Result / Tone Description 1 Kicker (Boost) only Powerful amp boost 2 Mule (Soldano-style) only Medium gain drive w/ complete tonal control 3 Mule + Kicker (Switch → Mule) Guitar solo tone / w/ lead boost 4 Kicker + Mule (Switch → Kicker) Extreme saturation / high-gain madness ?? For us to be able to help “troubleshoot” we will need clear photos of both sides of the PCBs, as well as information like what transistors or IC Chips did you use, and where you sourced them from. We will eventually need voltage readings from key components if the pictures you upload here are not revealing.
Unfortunately, this is confusing because the VERY OLD schematic with Mods posted above, R18 is the same as your CURRENT build schematic location of R17.
Look at the schematic location of the Sensitivity Pot and you will see.
OLD
CURRENT
You currently have 47k installed in that location, do not change anything
FYI: Regarding the R18 “mod” you already have a 47k resistor installed.
I did not want you to think that was an option here.
Since you tested the forward voltage of the Germanium outside of the circuit and got the correct reading that is not it.
I would also say that this circuit it is not going to behave like a Distortion or Drive where every setting is going to offer you something. It is designed to find the setting that works with your guitar. Many people have discussed this regarding the commercial pedal over the last 15 years.
One thread of many:
https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/help-with-snow-white-auto-wah.1667948/
Here are some Proper Q voltages for comparison (all pots full CCW) based on a 9.3v supply reading.
It does not need to be exact but should be relatively close. Q2 and Q3 are suspect.
Q1: (7.27 – 3.71 – 3.23 – DSG) <- Drain Source Gate not CBE Q2: (5.05 – 3.75 – 2.90 – CBE) Q3: (5.05 – 2.90 – 2.86 – CBE)The one you are using should be in the correct range:
For the most accurate reading, it’s best to desolder one leg of the diode from the PCB and test it again. This ensures other resistors or capacitors aren’t affecting the measurement.
If it were me I would socket D3 and then get a few different diodes after checking datasheets, then measure the forward voltage before installing it if you are not satisfied with the one you have.
Regarding D3 if that is a Russian diode then the Cathode of the diode is opposite of the stripe.
I would mention that this circuit really likes D3 with a forward voltage of about .35 to .38
