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Viewing 17 posts - 188 through 204 (of 1,979 total)
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  • in reply to: CLR on Tube Screaming Ultra #37632
    Barry
    Keymaster

    I like a bright LED! It makes it easier to find my guitar picks when my arthritis sends them flying, plus I get a free red light therapy session out of it!

    in reply to: My T-Drive (“Tommy”) #37603
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Love this! Thanks for sharing.

    in reply to: The Vibe v4 2021 #37602
    Barry
    Keymaster
    SW1 switches between 2 stage and 4 stage but not suggested for the Vibe.

    From the Guides Page here is the Combo Build section that shows solutions from many who built without on-board potentiometers.

    Combo Build Guide courtesy of Playsforfun and a Combo Build Thread with examples!

    In short the wire itself can hold the build in place or you can add double-sided Gel tape in a strategic location. It doesn’t take much.

    in reply to: Bonus Big Muff. #37577
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Very nice and thanks for posting!

    Its a great circuit of course.

    in reply to: EQD – Big Bada – Small Box #37547
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Love this! Thanks for posting. The Aztec pin ties it all together.

    in reply to: DPDT for Clipping Options with Aeon Drive 2023 #37524
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Since you are filling in the diode gap between two resistors R4 and R6, and for the sake of learning, you can use your DMM in continuity mode to discover the correct Diode pads to use.

    Have a look at the schematic and see that the components on either end of the clipping diodes are R4 on the left and R6 on the right.

    Check to find continuity till you hear a beep between R4 to D1 (and mark the correct D1 pad) and the same with R6 to D4 (and mark it).

    Connect one wire of the DPDT board to the correct D1 pad that you discovered, and the other wire to the correct pad of D4.

    Hints:

    • Don’t assume cathode/anode = the right pad. See the schematic diagram and trust the beep to R4 and R6 from the respective Diode pads.

    • The beep will confirm which pad of the empty diode pads of the Main PCB you need to use to insert the new set of diodes created on the DPDT board and fill in the gap.

     

     

    This same idea applies to other builds as well that you would like to modify.

    I keep a spare DPDT board loaded with sockets for such occasions.

    in reply to: Purple build #37523
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Earlier I mentioned that the Emitter is always the pad near the Tip (or Tab) on the silkscreen

    When I looked up a datasheet for an A92 transistor (see below) it shows that you have the Collector side soldered to the pad with the Tip aka the Emitter. So it would appear that the transistor is in upside down.

    in reply to: Guitar/bass v3 info #37505
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Are both of you clicking on the hyperlink (Top Link in Red) first that says Click for Pre-2021?

    Because this is what I see when I do:

     

    It has to be separated or I would have a very long list of the very old mixed in with the Legacy since I have been at this for nearly 16 years now.

    in reply to: Guitar/bass v3 info #37502
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Guides Page / Main Menu Bar.

    Top link. Click for Pre-2021 Build Documents.

    in reply to: ADD quiet. #37497
    Barry
    Keymaster

    An audio probe would make quick work of finding the point along the circuit where the volume drops.

    in reply to: Purple build #37496
    Barry
    Keymaster

    The little Tip on the silkscreen is always the Emitter, Base is the center, and Collector is the other side.

    in reply to: ADD quiet. #37491
    Barry
    Keymaster

    I agree all of the voltages are correct but the transistor voltages would be similar if the transistors were reversed so suspecting a orientation issue is a good thought. I would also suspect anything else we cannot see (since voltages and resistor values were verified) whether it is capacitor values, cold solder joints, intermittent connections, etc.

    That silicon diode while labeled a 1N60P is not a Germanium Diode as in the 1N60P Germanium we normally think of.

    I am also not clear on how Quiet you mean. Like just a little below unity gain quiet or barely audible quiet with the Volume and Drive turned up.

    in reply to: Mule Kicker — Man!!! #37470
    Barry
    Keymaster

    This looks excellent! I love the knob choices as well.

    As for the sound it is an absolute killer and is so versatile with order switching. So many tones, one small pedal.

    Unfortunately with the current world situation it is no longer feasible for me to order pre-drilled, painted enclosures anymore so be extra glad you got one.

    in reply to: VHT Gold Standard #37454
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Very Nice! Thanks for posting.

    in reply to: Trouble with NT70’s boost (solved) #37439
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Also make sure that the potentiometers that are sitting under the PCB have some type of non-conductive backing to prevent them from shorting out on the solder side of the PCBs.

    in reply to: Trouble with NT70’s boost (solved) #37438
    Barry
    Keymaster

    The transistor is installed in the wrong orientation (reversed).

    The tab represents the Emitter. On the PCB the emitter pad is on the right-hand side (not the left). Rotate the transistor 180° so the tab/emitter lines up with the right pad. You can fix it without desoldering the socket, just gently bend the center lead so it reaches the middle socket hole while maintaining that it does not touch the other two leads..

     

    This is the correct orientation.

    in reply to: Dual Tube Screaming Preamp #37434
    Barry
    Keymaster

    Very Nice Indeed!

    Thanks for sharing.

Viewing 17 posts - 188 through 204 (of 1,979 total)