@playsforfun
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Yes that’s correct. 4 with the A/C toggle position and another 4 with the B/D position. I hadn’t seen that before. My mind is expanding at this very moment. I love this hobby.
Hey John S. Sometimes you have to stare at it just right to get it to talk to you. I’ve used these little goodies for many purposes. Sometimes beyond their intended purpose. Solid fun from these little guys. Pro tip: You can cut the traces with an exacto knife. More than just four quadrants can be realized once it starts talking to you. Back to your question. Take a look at the 2 Knob Job. What you are asking can be done with a footswitch and also have an led as an indicator with that great board. But if you study that schematic you will see that only 2 wires of the 3 wire pot are switched. One remains common and connected to each other. Therefore this DPDT board can do the same with a toggle as long as you control the ‘common’ connection. Only you don’t have the led bonus. Forget about the trimmer above, its messing with you. This switch and board gives you 2 sides for 2 wires. Cheers
Nice work, Johl. Interesting approach to the graphics. Very interesting. How did you like working with the epoxy resin?
Welcome, toxonic. Congratulations on your first build being a success. So the experience you are having is very common. And by the looks of your excellent build, you haven’t done anything wrong. It’s possible for strong radio frequencies to invade audio circuits. That’s why we surround the circuit with the aluminum case that we are grounded to. That should take care of that sort of noise. Worse is the noise within our house or apartment wiring systems. Some of the noise comes from down the road and enters your house, and some comes from ourselves. Our refrigerators and washing machines, or even the neighbors, have motors which cause a fair amount of noise in the lines. Fluorescent and LED lighting causes noise in the lines and air. And then there are all the chargers and USB adapters, and yes, even the wall wart you are using to power up the pedal. My house is so bad that much of my gear is noisy even after passing through a power conditioner. Some of my small power supplies such as yours are unusable in certain spots and had to be weeded out. Bad luck for me here with a humming transformer on the other side of the driveway. But you may be able to try a different outlet with less noise. I would try a different power brick with more filtering too if you can. Cheers!
Really nice. And a great addition to any pedal chain. Love the leggings for the T. Your ugly vintage RS stash is awesome btw.
Hey Steve, here is some info from an older build doc. Just substitute R17 where it says R18 as you read. In short, the 47K allows better use of the sensitivity pot rotation. You are good to go.
“In Regards to adjusting R18 as well as much more here is the explanation from Tonmann. short answer – increasing R18 will allow you to set the Sensitivity more towards the 12 o’clock position. I’d go with a 47kΩ resistor here. The only advantage is being able to turn the signal down a bit further (50% to 0% is better than 20% to 0%) at the expense of turning the signal up (20% to 100% is better than 50% to 100%). In regards to R18 a quick look at the “green” stage might be in order. Nothing more than a gain stage. The gain is determined by whatever the Sensitivity pot is set at divided by the value of R18. If the pot is set to 50% rotation, the resistance value of the pot (for a 100kΩ linear pot) is 50kΩ. Divide 50kΩ by 20kΩ – the value of R18 – and you have a gain of 2.5. If the input signal is 100mV, the output signal is 250mV. So how did I arrive at a value of 47kΩ in the short answer?. It would appear from the above posts that setting the Sensitivity pot at the 9 o’clock position gives good results. Since “9 o’clock” is about 20% rotation, the value of the Sensitivity pot will be about 20kΩ.The gain is therefore pot value divided by R18 which is 20kΩ / 20kΩ giving a gain of 1.If I set the pot to 50% rotation, the pot value is now 50kΩ and if I change R18 to 50kΩ (47kΩ nearest standard value), the gain is 50kΩ / 50kΩ which is also a gain of 1.And just to show you what a clever monkey I am, it is possible to leave the value of R18 as it is (20kΩ and change the pot to a 47kΩ pot and still achieve the same results.”
Welcome Geoffrey. Congrats on the build firing right up. That’s a great feeling. Mine starts as a sweet boost before any breakup. Not sure what is in it for transistors right now but I love it. This quote is on my version of the build doc…
“*If you want a cleaner sounding drive try using an J113 at Q1 and Q2, however for a slightly dirtier sound we recommend the use of a 2N5457 at Q1, Q2 and Q3. This falls under “Socket and See”. Always use sockets.”
So, yes, experiment for differences along with following Chucks advice for bias setting. Among the list of must have’s is a good multimeter. I like having two. 1 is left ready to test caps and the older one set ready for resistance. Let us know how it goes and what you settle on. Cheers.
Hi. It could be if you make your own expression pedal to include the 100K pot required by the BnB. Or you can research compatibility if you want to use a store bought one of a certain brand. Then for your build, substitute the pot of the BnB with a TRS jack. Basically you are moving the balance pot to a separate enclosure to control it. If that all sounded easy, I’d love to see it posted when you finish. Cheers.
If that was a very straightforward build, then you are very courageous. I can see that it took a long time with the little extra touches all over like shrink boot. Very nice, Ben. You encourage me to do some things that I never tried, like a stand alone d’Lay for one. And that paint job, outstanding. Enjoy.
Excellent write-up and information Big O. Lots of nice work there. What do you use to smooth out your waterslide labels. Little bubbles can be a reappearing pain sometimes for me.
I’m with Cybercow, I’ll design the drill guide according to the graphics I use. And I tend to place led’s anyplace I feel like. I’m lucky enough to have Illustrator and I use that from design to drilling to waterslide labels. I have Inkscape, which is similar, but I haven’t mastered it yet. Gimp should do the same, so I have read.
Hey Gavin, The 3 will probably work. The 10 will definitely work but might need a steady hand to set. Let us know. Cheers.
Joe, I think I can help out with a couple answers. I’ll work from last to first. Yes you can add an Emerald Ring in series and control whether it is ‘in circuit’ or not. I would not advise using the power source as a way to control the ER, but rather allow it to remain powered and bypass the signal with a DPDT mini toggle, if you don’t want to put it on a footswitch. Either is possible. For a toggle simply wire the two end pins at one end of the switch together with a jumper. this will be the bypass direction. Then wire the In and Out pads of the ER to the 2 pins at the other end of the switch. This leaves the middle two pins available the ‘In’ side goes to the Angry Llama and the ‘Out” side goes to the out jack. The switch will either direct the signal to the board or avoid it. Keep it powered though to avoid pops and noises.
For the Angry Llama, since I have to guess, I’ll say that the pot values were possibly mixed up. There are other guesses but you really should take the time to provide some clear photos of the front and back of the board and include some of off-board wiring. Do the testing without the ER being involved. Test it separate if any issues. Many extra eyes always helps.
