@billy
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Check you get 9v to the main pcb 9v and ground pads Ray
I think you’re saying you are but we’d need to know if the main pcb is getting 9v you’d get bypassed signal regardless of power getting to the main pcb
Also remember with the enclosure the wrong way up in would be on the left again you’d get bypass with your in and out cables going to the wrong jacks but no effect
It is a common error to plug in to out and visa versa with the enclosure upside down
Did you use MPF102 transistors and a 5457 and where did you get them I’m assuming you followed the biasing procedure
All component values and orientation that I can see look correct can’t see R1 and 2
Bitsbox sell the plastic dust covers Matt
https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3903
Rubber spots of silicon would be fine that’s what I found repairing a Wampler plexi drive for someone or even stick rubber bumpers on them you use for feet
As said it’s not that bad Matt
Just make sure you wire them correctly you’ll see a small 1 on the pot silkscreen for pot lug 1
I’ve built the majority of Barry’s boards in the 15 years or so I’ve been around these parts I actually prefer wired pots so, as Barry said you can place them where ever you like
You’ve also got Barry’s pot condoms or you can buy the plastic pot covers from a few places if you’re concerned about the pots touching the underside of the pcb
If your wiring in series 2 x 3PDTs
Wire pcb in and out as normal the in jack to first 3PDT in lug out to 2nd 3PDT in and 2nd 3PDT out to out jack
It’s not as simple as you’d think Chris some good info here
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104186.0
All your values and orientation that I can see look correct
Feedback / hiss can be caused by a few things make sure your caps around the pot C12 and 13 in particular have good solder joints
Hope everything turns out well mate
I’ll check in everyday like I normally do see if I can beat Cybercow and Wilkie to answering
Big O I would say you definitely know your stuff
Apart from Q3 your transistor collector voltages look high
What are the voltages on the empty sockets
I can’t see any incorrect values all look good
The only resistor I’m not 100% on is R11 can’t quite make out the multiplier band
R32 is the LED current limiting resistor you’d omit that if using a 3PDT board to mount your LED if mounted on the main pcb you would need it in place any value up to 4K7 would do
Post some nice clear images of both sides of the pcb so that all component values and orientation can be seen and wiring traced
Josh you’re better just getting a quad set from Barry they’re on sale at the moment at a very reasonable 14.95
Saves all the hassle of going through 100s to try and get a matched set and 5952s are pretty expensive nowadays
Where are you located
If you’re getting 9v at the junction of R18 and 19 it sounds like it could be a problem with ground check all your ground connections especially around the power section C19, 20, 21 R18, 19 and D2
Also post images where we can clearly see and trace all of your offboard wiring
Your 2N1309 should have a metal tag at the emitter pin what is it’s hFE
Did you measure each resistor before installing
Is your trimmer 203 code 20K
Was it a kit or did you source parts yourself
Your transistors need to be biased
You can either do it by ear or using your meter
Set the trimmer so you get around -7v on Q3 collector as a starting point then adjust by ear to where it sounds best to you
Biasing voltage will vary depending on transistor type and hFE / leakage anything from – 4.5 to over – 8v on Q3 collector
If you’ve got one of Barry’s matched sets you’re good to go obviously make sure you put the correct hFE transistor in the correct Q spot
When turning the trimmer you will hear a slight increase in volume that’s normally around the sweet spot I set mine round about there but as I say set it to whatever sounds best to you
I think you may have Q3 collector and base mixed up
Post some pictures of your pcb so we can clearly see all components some of your transistor voltages look a bit off
Spluttery fuzz usually but not always means mis biased transistors
Is it correct that you don’t get VB at the junction of R18 and 19 ?
Also check the pads you’ve scraped between with your exacto it’s ok doing this on vero but not pcb some pcb traces are not that deep and fairly easy to cut through
I’d perhaps continuity check the circuit placing your leads on the component leg / pin and not the solder pads
Concentrate particularly on the area where audio stops
