@barry
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Very Nice! I like the relic look on the odd shape box. I think more should try that.
Thanks for sharing.
The Sabotage first off is biased for using 2N5485. That would be the main thing since you know you can use many JFETs but biasing is not going to be the same as it is for J113, J201, 2N5457 or whatever. I have already verified that the Bias is best and set almost perfectly when using 2N5485 in the Sabotage circuit and since there are no trimmer adjustments well that makes them the best.
The 3PDT board as well as the 3PDT switch is six and one half dozen.
So the 3PDT board only goes on one of 2 ways. Orientation does not matter. Lug 1 is whatever is in the top left.
Our wiring layout is symmetrical so it does not matter. I hope that helps.
As for testing first many of us have a testing rig we build up to allow us to just test the board for functionality. It is not required of course and many folks don’t bother., Where it does come in handy is when building a Combo Special so you would save a lot of troubleshooting buy testing each board before wiring it all up together.
I would also keep referring back to Cybercow’s DSOTM Build Essay
Hi and welcome.
In this case cut 1 piece of the 3 piece of socket. Solder the 2 piece in place and then solder the single. TIP: It is always easier to solder sockets before you get to the much higher capacitors as you will discover.
Just push the transistors into the sockets, do not trim. The legs will touch the metal in the socket in turn will then be connected to the circuit via the socket solder joint.
Typically you would use a round socket but these are expensive and not always easy to find so this is the next best solution.
Once your build works then you can trim your transistor legs down some. It won’t change anything circuit wise but it will put the transistors a little closer to the board so that they are not hitting anything else. They do not need to be flush with the board and in fact it is better that they are not.
There is a lot of good beginner info on the Guides Page list of Documents such as The Beginners Guide
Also if you use our Forum Search Bar and use DSOTM as a filter you will get to this helpful DSOTM Build Analysis.
I hope that helps.
If the trimmer is locked in a bad spot it could cause bad static type noises. This may be confused for other issues. It is hard for me to say but you can certainly find some bad sounds by a trimmer that is set wrong. Also if set in a bad spot I could also see it affecting the volume. I would fix the trimmer issue since it has to be done regardless.
“That is about $200/year or $4 per week.”
I spend more than that on coffee and I make my own and I drink it only with a bit of milk sometimes.
is that bad? I think not.
I have to ask about the Trim Pot again as well since it is critical to finding the “minimal sweet spot” that will make the circuit produce chorus and it looks like it could be damaged.
Hi and welcome,
At a glance I can see that the Main Board In and Out wiring to the pads need reversed.
The Pad with the Silkscreen does not go to Ground. So carefully reverse those two wires on each side while avoiding any damage to the pads. Hopefully that is all you will need to do.
Take your time and report back.
Hi and welcome,
It seems at a glance that the wiring layout is good.
I know it is hard when you are starting but getting practice with how you want to solder wire is key. So when you look at the photo I pointed at a couple key places you will want to reflow and make sure there are no loose wires. Also you need to make sure you do not have cold solder joints or a ball sitting on top of a pad. Take your iron with a fine conical tip and reflow and work the wiring to a better position while also fixxing solder balls or cold joints by letting the solder flow into the joint.
Be very careful not to damage the solder pads when doing this.
You should actually make sure your wire is flush to the pads and solder from the other side.
Apply the same technique to any and all other trouble looking areas anywhere else including the back of the main circuit board.
This is a good learning experience for you and once you get one pedal right then it works the same for all the rest.
Good luck.
The first thing I would do is reflow the solder joints at all the potentiometer pads and any additional pads that look questionable while you are at it. Keep a small bit of solder handy to add where needed when you reflow. Reflow any suspicious off board wiring as well.
Be sure nothing is shorting out before you retest. For example the Jack above the G-02 is very close to the board when you plug in the guitar cable. Check other areas though so nothing is touching the enclosure or ground.
I looked over the important resistors which seem to be fine so if it were me I would load the board up with all 2N5484 transistors except for the Q1 and then Swap out from your lot of 2N2457 transistors till you find one between 3 to 6.8 volt range.
Once you have that then do the same thing again with Q2, Q3 and Q5.
Then go ahead and replace Q2 and Q5.
Reason is that in these days of Obsolete transistors some are going to be out of spec or to the furthest degree of it. Another reason to always socket.
Or honestly just use the 2N5484 transistors since they are nearly identical and are biasing well for you.
