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BarryKeymaster
BarryKeymasterThat is just fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterAlways on since you won’t be changing effects and After to keep it more transparent.
BarryKeymasterBrilliant work! I also approve highly of using a buffer for many reasons.
You can accomplish this with our Buffer Board, AfterBlaster & Buff N Blend.
Thanks for giving us a build essay in photos. Very Nice!
BarryKeymasterYes, post some clear photos.
Voltage readings might also be helpful.
May 7, 2021 at 5:30 pm in reply to: PlexiPre & PlexiPre Deluxe – Plexi Plus, Tone TwEQ & Afterblaster combos #18611
BarryKeymaster“Would be much easier in a 125BB, but you can get it to work in a 1590BB as you can see.”
Looks to me it would fit mounted to the Top Wall or if not either of the side walls maybe?
BarryKeymasterSo there are many choices.
I guess it is always good to decide if the circuit is inverted or non-inverting. Not because one is better but to plan if using an (inverted) circuit you will need another (inverted) Stage 3 Booster circuit to create a complete (non-inverted) circuit to use with the Buff N Blend. This can actually be beneficial in additional ways.
For example:
Our MoRC Compressor is (inverted) so you need to add an extra (inverted) stage like our Stage 3 Booster.
How is this beneficial?
You will end up with a seriously upgraded Compressor for Bass or 6 String that has a dedicate Volume control and a Blend to mix in or out as much clean signal as you need giving you far many more tonal options to suit the discriminating guitarist.
Since the Mastadon is (inverting) you will need to add a Stage 3. The Stage 3 is the least likely Boost (stage) to mess with your original tone. If you set it up Biased at 4.5v and use it as a mild boost it will only make things sound better while maintaining transparency.
That is just one idea for starters.
Read our Phase Follies Guide from the Guides Page.
May 5, 2021 at 1:36 am in reply to: SuperDrive 70’s Q3 collector voltage possible exorcism needed #18581
BarryKeymasterInstall TR1. Adjust to voltage and audible sound. 3.37v is not that far off from 4.5v or a suggested 5.2v running it hot.
Don’t forget to do the same with TR-2 with the Drain of Q5. Try to get 4.5v to 6.5v
BarryKeymasterYah I had a version with the blue tube and I always hated it. Then Bruce got me that one and it blew my mind. Night and Day difference to the crap one I was using. More like Mirror Universe.
BarryKeymasterOn another note you can have more stability by creating a “Hybrid Set”
The Foxrox CC comes to mind:

As well as the recently released Dunlop Hybrid featured in “The Pedal Movie” and hand-wired by Jeorge Tripps.
This uses a Russian GT308B Germanium in Q1 and a 2N5087 PNP in Q2.
Nothing hard to get there but if you want one you will need about $2,000.00
All of that said there is absolutely nothing wrong with Pure Silicon PNP Sets.
BarryKeymasterOne could incorporate a 2 Knob Job here on several fronts and make it all happen with your feet.


BarryKeymasterSo 8mm since 11 X .79 = 8.69mm. I am imagining the whole you drilled has a very slight amount of play.
I will add all this info to the docs.
Thank you Big O
BarryKeymasterLooks like 6mm.
BarryKeymasterPhotos are very hard to see. Even when zooming in.
Update Edit: I think the photos are that way because they are side by side.
I am trying a straight format here:



BarryKeymasterIs it this with 500mA max current?

BarryKeymasterCan you share what you are using for your power source?
Like is it a battery and if not what type of power supply etc and any other info that might be different than the norm.
BarryKeymasterUse it. TeePee is always an option as well but that should be fine.
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