@barry
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Wassup Jimi!!
I have to agree that whenever some weird shit like that chaps my ass it is usually some unexpected off-board item that is giving me a fit that really should not be.
There is no Opamp so that is a typo in the description of Page 1 which I will remove.
As for the R10 and C20 I do not think it makes much difference.
So he is selling… because of course he is.
If you are looking to get in on the business and have an extra cool 7 figures laying around I would give him a call.
I guess I have to do a Video #2 because there are no additional steps, sanding or clear coat. Nadda!
I am not sure why you guys are having a problem but there is something definitely going on.
That said this is the worst possible time for me to do a video because I am under extreme pressure to get all of these 2021 updated boards and build documents done as soon as humanly possible and add to that I did 422 orders in the last 30 days. I know it is a good problem to have but it is to say I am quite busy at the moment.
It is all done just like the Video and I have glossy inkjet photo paper with prints laying everywhere with artwork and coated with Armor-all. No spots, no runs, no sanding and no clear coat. It is all done by letting the ink cure first for 1-2 days and potentially a hair dryer for final curing after that if needed and then a healthy spray with Armor-all and wipe with a clean fiber cloth (lightly) to smooth it all out (not rub it off).
There is nothing more than that on my end but when I have more time I can make a video to show it. My one guess is it could be the paper used? I doubt it is the ink. I use a good quality Canon Glossy Photo Paper.
I have also used this method on photos for a picture frame that I do not want to fade over years from sunlight.
You do need the Armour All with Sunblock of course.
The final result is simple and effective without all of the additional fuss or spraying clear coat.
Well I saw a post on Instagram from Steve and it appears he is going to stay open till they sell out of everything and then close.
That literally makes no sense to me because of the customer database alone which took 22 years to build would be worth a pretty penny all by itself (and maybe that is what is happening). Anyway it’s really too bad there would not be a continuance of some sort because I am certain there is a market for it.
Also double check you have two perfectly functioning cables. Make sure your power supply is 9v.
Oh and I just noticed that you need to break the tabs off of your pots. Use a pliers and snap them off so your pots fit flush.
I hope that helps but I am going to have to leave soon.
If that doesn’t solve it hopefully someone else will jump in.
Make sure the Black wire is not in the way when you insert the guitar cable into the Output Jack (mono).
I cannot verify wiring from photos.
Yah D1 is protection for the whole circuit. The CLR does not need to be installed or the LED at D2 since they go in the 3PDT Wiring Board instead.
I am seriously doubting you damaged anything.
Make sure nothing is shorting like for example the back of the pots to the board etc…
Where is D1?
You must have D1 installed. Also I am doing a double take at the power jack so be careful you do not bridge connections. It could just be the photo I am looking at.
I would not panic. Steve is retiring after 20 years of running a successful business.
Key word successful.
If you do not think somebody is taking that over in full stride then I would think again. Everybody loves drama.
If you think about it why would anyone give up a fully stocked, successful business you ran for 20 years and had a huge customer base. Well you wouldn’t because that is a cash cow and would fund your retirement.
