@barry
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You do not need two. We do that for Combo Build convenience.
Like Ray said see the Guides. Also if you like two for convenience then the 3PDT Wiring board has three.
Many ways to do the same thing. It is common power sharing no matter which way.
Sorry for the confusion. What Mark said.
Sometimes were just looking for a common value and you can choose which ever one you have when it is not critical or we will scale. Any value in between will work but you will probably find for 470k to be the more common value for example. I will fix that up though and thanks for pointing it out.
1. Pedal Parts Plus
2. You can use the 4 Track Fuzz Template as it is identical till I get it sorted out.
These are my suggestions based on several guesses without having anything to see.
First like a real wah pedal placement is everything. There will be a limited tonal change unless it is placed first in the chain and before any dirt especially.
Second it needs to be dialed in to your specific guitar. This autowah has features to allow you to get the most out of guitar or bass so that said if it is not dialed in for a guitar then it will be less than stellar. Once dialed in however it should be kept right where it is from there on out.
These are the two most common problems 1. Placement and 2. Settings
Barring a build error of course since the voltages are a bit odd (please recheck) and also note this circuit has been a go to for a long while now with no changes other than cosmetic. Make sure all IC pins are seated properly. Re-flow any suspect solder joints. Look for any potential shorting including the solder side of the board. Double check all off board connections and fix or reflow. If you cannot get it going we will need Clear Detailed Photos of both sides of the board! This is a larger circuit and there are just too many things that could go wrong so we have to be able to see it as close as if we were holding it.
Here is a good read.
Proper Q voltages for comparison (all pots full CCW)
Q1: (7.27 – 3.71 – 3.23 – DSG)
Q2: (5.05 – 3.75 – 2.90 – CBE)
Q3: (5.05 – 2.90 – 2.86 – CBE)
You still need to fix your Main Board Out wire (yellow) by using the T pad. I put arrows pointing to the T Pads in my 1st photo post above.
The T Pad is located by the visual T on the board silkscreen. Depending on the Main Board it is not always simply on the top or bottom so you have to visually verify. T stands for Tip which is the Audio Path.
It will not work if you do not connect the Audio Path properly.
I also noticed resistors not seated properly and a lot of dull grey solder joints.
If it does not work after fixing the Yellow OUT wire I suggest watching my Soldering Tutorial.
You may have to carefully redo some solder joints. Be careful not to heat the transistors since you did not use sockets to protect them from the heat of the soldering iron.
Also helpful you can refer to our GUIDES PAGE which may help you more.
Anything Orange is a LINK. Click above.
I hope that helps.
Connect the Green and Yellow In/Out wiring on the Main Board to the (T) Pads.
Currently they are connected to ground.
This image is from the Guides Page. It would be great for printing out as all builds follow this example:
If you need further help I would start by first verifying everything against the Image above.
Since this is an easy as well as subjective test your only concern is that Capacitor voltages meet your needs. That said let us know what you think after your tests.
This is stock. The volume output will fluctuate where the tone control is set.
while it is not much over unity this stock circuit is close. The more you use the tone to cut frequency the more apparant volume loss. This does not affect me personally as long as I get at unity and love the unique tone. If needed add an Afterblaster for extra volume output or use in tandem with a boost
Well done and thank you for following up!
Be sure to make a Show Off post so others can see and hear what you have to say about it.
+1 to what Billy said. There are just so many possible reasons for this issue.
Since we cannot examine the physical pedal, foot switch, cables etc… you will have to test every possible angle starting with the ones Billy points out. It could be any one of those and possibly more. Having an LED go bad when you put it in the case but works outside the case sounds like something is shorting to metal to me. As for the crackle noise, everything Billy mentioned.
