@cybercow
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Peter – if everything is in series, then phase inversion will not be an issue. Still, I suggest that all testing be done, (including tying all the circuits together in the trials), before committing to drilling the enclosure. This will ensure everything works as it should.
Peter – please describe the circuit chain. Will they all be in series or will some of those be in parallel? The added info will help clarify the question.
Lincoln . . . .
- Yes
- There are few limits on how switching can be managed – it depends on the space available within the enclosure as constrained by the drilled hole spacing in the enclosure. A SPDT On-Off-On toggle can also be used if creative wiring is applied and the center position can be no clipping at all.
This (below) is an Opamp BMP with the type of clipping you suggest – but with a SPDT (On-Off-On) toggle. - You can leave one clipping element (diodes, LEDs, etc) leg hanging as I did in the above photo. Or you can can leave out any of the clipping elements from the PCB and just points “A” & “B” to connect the clipping elements via a switch.
For bypassing the tone section, you can jumper lug #2 of the volume pot to C7 and lift the one leg of R11. A DPDT On-On toggle should do it.
Michael – I’ve built a half-dozen of the various DSOTM projects. Not one of them exhibited any switching noise – even with cheap stompswitches. Yeah, DuMonts are very nice and very pricey, but usually do not fix a stompswitch “pop” or click. I’ve never known a stompswitch to exhibit “microphonics” in any of my hundreds of different builds.
And to be honest, from zooming in on the photo you provided, it appears to me that several of the solder points are solder-starved or look cold. I’d start be reflowing the solder on several of those joints and maybe add a touch more with some flux too. Poor solder joints are the bane of a successful build. They reflowing the solder and let us know how it goes please.
Good luck!
Robert – from what I know pedals and long-run pedal chains, the signal can get “thin” and/or loose some its “brilliance” due to the combined capacitive loading of shielded cable in a true-bypass environment. A “buffer” is designed to push the signal thru those cables and overcome the capacitive loading therein – while re-establishing a specific impedance.
Conversely, too much “buffering” in a pedal chain may lead to loss of signal level (likely because the impedance gets too low with too many) and/or other unpleasantness. Stinkfoot has a decent article on buffers with a focus on Boss buffers. Premiere Guitar also has a “Crash Course on Buffers” article that may help.
And not all buffers are transparent, (as noted in the Stinkfoot article), and can color the signal. GuitarPCB buffered projects in the “Mod Boards” section are all JFET based buffers and rather transparent.
In front of some pedals, a buffered pedal in front of it is a good thing. For others, it may actually cause an irrecoverable tone loss/change. There are so many different pedals with so many different input and output impedances that it take either a lot of experimentation to find what pedals work best in a specific in a chain – OR – it takes a good bit of reading and/or testing the pedals used in a chain to know before what their input/output impedances are before assembling the chain.
Simply put, a buffer takes a hi-impedance signal and converts it to a lo-impedance signal. When changing the impedance from high to low, the buffer is restoring the signal flow to be the strongest it can be. Think of the signal like water running through a hose and a buffer is what keeps that water from getting caught in the “kinks.” Buffers help strengthen the guitar’s signal so it stays strong throughout the “hose” all the way to your amp!
Noisy builds are often noisy without a buffer in front of it when there is a great enough impedance mismatch between the pedal and what is feeding it.
Steve – the NAVY BLUE and LIGHT PURPLE wires on the Switcher daughterboard NEED to be placed at the “T” points. And the switcher board needs at least one ground wire.
Michael – there sure is. You can choose between two different jacks . . . .
This one above is isolated from the chassis and all three pins have pass-thru switching. Just connect the wet control to the pins not seen in this photo to the PCB, and connect the pins that are shown to the actual Wet pot.
Or you can use a jack like this . . . .
This jack does NOT isolate the ground from chassis, but that’s OK because P3 (the “Wet” pot) has lug #1 connected to ground. Use a DMM to sort out the switching to pass control of the P3 connections on the PCB to the expression pedal. So when the expression pedal is inserted, it breaks the connection of lugs #2 & #3 of the pot from the PCB. With no expression pedal plugged in, the “Wet” pot will behave as normal.
Just be sure the expression pedal you use has a 100K pot in it.
Chuck – thanks! Yeah, the Stage 3 enclosure is actually stuffed with PURP build – instead of a Stage 3. The Stage 3 is in the Super Drive 70’s enclosure as the “Boost”. 😉
This (below) is an Opamp BMP with the type of clipping you suggest – but with a SPDT (On-Off-On) toggle.
