@barry
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Switch the output jack wiring at the Output Jack.
Switch the two wires Violet and White on the Output Jack. Right now you have White going to the Output Jack Tip but it is coming from Ground on the Main Board. The Violet wire is on the Sleeve Lug but needs to be on the Output Jack Tip.
So switch them at the Jack.
The Input Jack looks good.
Not sure how to take this comment:
“Thanks to all the people who contributed to this topic. Nice meeting you all.”
You only had the post up for 35 minutes before answering it yourself but given time I am sure someone would have responded. I am glad you figured it out.
The input jack only was wrong. The Tip of the Jack was going to ground.
There is hardly any difference between v2 and V3 except for moving the +9v pads and ground pads and a few items that are in a slightly different location however schematically it is the same.
The only thing aside from the wiring issue is I am not familiar with those 1N34A diodes you are using. If they are Russian for example then they are likely backwards from American or Asian diodes. In other words Stripe = Anode instead of Cathode.
That is just a guess based on what I see.
They are extra pads so if you did a continuity test with your DMM you will see that both +9v are connected and all grounds are connected to each other. We provide extra pads because many people prefer to add extra circuits inside one box. The extra pads make this very easy to do. So it would not matter.
Working out noise issues are done by using a 9v battery on a battery strap and plugged into your pedal. Since batteries do not produce noise that is a very quick and simple test to perform every time you experience odd noise.
I am not sure what you bought but I certainly would not try to continue with it.
Amazon has plenty of options under 9v negative tip 2.1mm power supply. I use Voodoo Lab. But I have also used a 1 Spot which will get you by in a pinch since the adapters will not be isolated so if you do have 1 noisy pedal that noise can be passed on down the line and amplified.
Since you have a Stage 3 as well I doubt there is a need for an additional always on Buffer or is there?
The Tube Screaming Ultra is in the loop of the BnB.
The Stage 3 is not in the loop or it would invert the signal. You only need the Stage 3 if the other circuit in the BnB loop is inverting in order to make it non-inverting.
So for me it would be Input: -> TUS w/ BnB -> Stage 3 -> Output
The Tube Screaming Ultra does not invert the phase so you do not want to place Stage 3 in series inside the loop.
If you still want a Stage 3 Boost in the combo design then place it in series outside the loop like any other combo circuit design. If it were me I would include the Stage 3 in series after the Tube Screaming or any other additional circuit to be used as a Tube Screaming Enhancer.
or do not install any parts between pads A and B. Then put a Tone TwEQ in there.
or use a Buff N Blend and blend the amount of bottom end you need.
Look for the coupling capacitors. See image below.
C1, C2, C7 and C8.
Since C2 and C7 at 1uF will let more Bass frequency through than you would ever insert with any guitar or Bass those are fine. C1 at 22nF is what limits just the guitar frequencies to come through.
C8 at 100n will let most Bass frequencies through but I would still suggest making that value 220n or go higher if you plan on making some Doom Metal or Movie Soundtracks.
220nF is going to allow plenty of Bass signal through but it will not hurt to go 470nF, 680nF or 1uF especially if it is Keyboards or a really detuned Bass or Baritone guitar.
You could make C8 220n (or higher) and then put a 22n on one side of a DPDT switch and then put either a 220n, 470n or 680n on the other side and connect that to C1 and make it switchable from stock (22n) to whatever value you like. So even though C8 will be a 220n now when you flip C1 to “stock” it will all be the same six and one half dozen only allowing frequencies for 22n flow through the circuit.
First I would make sure the transistors are seated good. Bend them a bit if you need. Make sure they are sitting tight in the sockets.
I know it might be hard to re-flow but try and reach as many solder joints as you can and re-heat them to make the solder flow again. You want to have some extra solder handy if you need to ad a bit more.
You can bend the pots up so you can reach more solder joints but be careful.
If none of that helps take some voltage readings of the transistors and report them here.
Example:
Q1
D = _.__
G = _.__
S = _.__
Q2
D = _.__
G = _.__
S = _.__
Q3
D = _.__
G = _.__
S = _.__
Before I begin looking this over in detail what do you have protecting the bare back of the metal Potentiometers from contacting the solder side of the board?
