@barry
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I do know that the latest iPhone updates are getting real crazy about emails and other stuff. A lot of my emails are now being blocked by iPhone since the 15.0 updates started and this was intended by them.
I am wondering if login issues are being restricted to iPhone 15.0 update users?
Anyway very hard to debug without some consistent feedback for a troubleshooting session.
If there are any WordPress savvy folks here let me know.
I could use some help debugging since I cannot get help from my host and I would need someone who is affected by this to be around for 30 minutes while I test to be able to let me know what is going on.
Hi Steve,
Actually you do not need two dip switches for the build. You may use a DPDT switch instead for a pedal mounted option. If you do opt for the 2 position switches those are indeed the ones you need and the ones that I carry. See page 2 of the Build Document and the schematic for dip switch. Also see Page 4 of the doc for the DPDT switch.
I hope that helps.
Hi,
The good thing about the PUFF is that there are not that many components.
The bad thing is that transistors are going to be more difficult to find.
Most of us purchase from a store like Mouser, Digikey and others in the USA.
Das Musikding in Germany for example sells many parts and transistors.
Das Musikding is a good store because you will more than likely find everything you need with a single purchase saving you on shipping charges.
https://www.musikding.de/Startseite_1
It is important to get the right size parts like:
Resistors 1/4 watt
https://www.musikding.de/Metal-film-04WBox Caps for uF values:
https://www.musikding.de/Polyester-boxed_1
Ceramic Caps for pF values
https://www.musikding.de/Ceramic-Capacitors
And Electrolytic Caps:
https://www.musikding.de/Electrolytic-Radial
Germanium transistors:
https://www.musikding.de/AC125-hFE100-110_1
You can learn a lot more by reading all of the guides on our Guides Page in your spare time.
You will have to purchase each value of what you need. That is what we all do unless you buy a kit. Sometimes if you know you are going to stay in the hobby it is better to buy part kits of resistors, capacitors and chips.
I hope that helps.
Note: If you are still having issues please make sure you have logged out on all devices and clear your browser cache on whatever device you are trying to log back in on before doing so.
After logging in refresh the page!
If you do not how to do that on a particular device do a google search for (how to clear cache on “device name”.)
Glad you got it solved. 5.47 v is absolutely fine.
To be clear the backwards wired pots will not affect your bias voltages. They will simply work in reverse rotation.
The wiring diagram was indeed an outdated version of an older board or a “Picture Typo” if that is a thing and will be corrected.
This is what the forum is for. Helping out all together.
To be perfectly clear I never called you a newb.
What I did say is that I came up with the resistor picture card so that “Newbs” could help participate in helping me and a few others around here in debugging builds.That had nothing at all to do with you. That said “Newb” or newbie is (slang) for newcomer, someone new to something. It is not derogatory.
No excuse for your use of foul language which I had to edit. You are welcome to express despair but don’t be attacking me because you want to insist on your own misguided findings.
Finally I do not do “alternative facts” on this forum so as not to hurt your feelings.
I am here to help figure out the problem with plain facts.
The fact is that the picture you provided me with is absolutely a 100K resistor at R4 with Black bands and not Blue. Even if you thought they were Blue it would still not make sense because there are no common resistors of that color band or 133k / 166k values. (see image below)
I am pretty sure I will have a general consensus on this.
That is the only way to move forward and solve the problem.
Those R4 resistor bands are Black, Black not Blue, Blue and Orange is the 2nd band not the multiplier making it 100K but I see your mistake and completely understand. Just remember to try it the other way if you get a strange value.
Also we have these wonderful Resistor band cards you can download from the Guides Page to use. It makes it nice to just hold the card up to the board or computer screen for a quick double check.
The idea behind that was to get more newbs to help troubleshoot on builds here on the forum but so many people would still rather lurk than score a win I guess.
So I just looked at your build and R4 is 100K.
Brown, Orange, Black, Black, Brown is 100K.
I did a double take after responding above because there are no common 133k resistors which should have occurred to me immediately but it is late and it did not.
So you cannot measure a resistor in circuit. I must assume that is how you came up with 133K.
So back to the trimmer I would consider upping the value.
I would still like to know if the potentiometer (working correctly) has Lug 1 (back side – right lug) connected to the main board Pad with the 1 silk-screen for obvious reasons.
Yes you can use a 30k trimpot. That is also specified in the document and perhaps with the transistors you are using that may be required in this case? Not really right or wrong just accounting for tolerances of components is sometimes tricky
I really need to understand and verify that you are telling me that when you wire the potentiometer Lug One (back side of pot – right lug) to the Pad silk screened Lug 1 that this works backwards for you?
Right on the transistors but the margin of tolerance is 500hFE to 1500 hFE which is a huge variance!
You may want to try other transistors of the same make though is what I was saying. If you have a Peak Atlas or some other testing device you can see where your transistors actually sit in that large tolerance range.
Idealy you want to go from low to high. Q1 – Q3 respectively. My point was you may have a 1500hFE in Q1.
Always feel free to try others as well. Just check the datasheet for pinout.
Hi and welcome and certainly.
Just use the silkscreen numbering to match the potentiometer lug and place it wherever it will fit including the sidewall.
as I said the transistor arrangement won’t affect the bias however it will affect how good the pedal ultimately sounds with a lower hFE in Q1. Swapping the leads on the pots will definitely change how the potentiometers works. Lug 1 is marked with a number 1 silkscreen right beside the board pad for verification.
From our Tip Sheet:
This is a super high gain fuzz/distortion.
I have probably sold a thousand of these boards worldwide over the last 13 years and the forum is relatively silent on issues with building it to answer your question .
The transistors are rated at 500 hFE to 1500 hFE which is extremely high.
If it is not boxed up it will most certainly be noisy. After boxing it up and everything is not turned to 10 it should not be any noisier than any other High Gain circuit.
If it is still noisy I would re-check grounding and re-flow. Additionally you could try using transistors that are measured with a lower gain especially if you happen to have several 1500 hFE ones loaded up.
While I do not think this has anything to do with the Bias issue I would switch the transistors with each other since you likely want the lower gain transistor in Q1. Looking at the datasheets these can be as high as 200 – 300 hFE and the 2n1307 being the higher of the two. Unless you tested these and found 2N1307 to be lower I would switch them.
