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Bought at the same time as the Vibe. Nice to just focus and put things together.
My work: pretty basic? Yup. Obvious? I thought so. Cliche? You betcha.
Amusing? I still did it, so yeah.The obligatory gut shot:
A nice oblique. My decal work is getting better.
The brand I use can be baked on after it’s dry. There’s a fine line between setting well and shrinking, but done right it pretty much eliminates bubbles and dull spots. When I get lucky with the right color, it’s hard to tell it’s a decal at all; the only thing that gives it away otherwise is that the Krylon Fusion clear to seal it is a little yellow.
Would have turned out better if my spray paint wasn’t a decade old and decided it was less interested in ‘spray’ than ‘squirt.’ My usual technique is to dry it overnight and bake it in a toaster oven as the layers go on. Primer, paint, decal. Not the clear.
Rustoleum will take multiple weeks to harden otherwise. Florida humidity sucks. And don’t use the good toaster oven.
A more clear front shot:
And of course I couldn’t not do it:
Excellent work. That’s funny. I’ve got a pedal only toaster oven. Thanks for posting. Keep ’em coming.
Great looking build. Just curious, what type of decal material did you use?? And more importantly, what temperature and how long do you ‘cook’ the enclosure?? Summer time here in Central California is not to bad for finishing, but spring, fall, and winter are a bitch…
Thank you, guys. It doesn’t hold a candle to some of the artwork and routing I see here, but it is nice and clearly visible.
With my normal Rustoleum or Krylon, I let it dry overnight then bake at 200f for an hour. Probably overkill. I do this for the primer, then the base paint.
I’ve been using Hayes inkjet-printable clear waterslide decals. You can get better initial results than I do with better prep. It likes a smooth base. I might try something else once I run out. I’m worried about peeling on some of the unbaked ones.
But the package states that if it’s on ceramic (and presumably anything heat-safe) you can bake it for 15 minutes at 230f to set it. I found this causes it to shrink a little, or my toaster oven just runs a little hotter than stated. I moved it back down to about 200-215 and got this.
If you use a clearcoat that’s truly clear, or pick the right colors, it does a good job of hiding.Thanks for the info @MathU41!!
Love the Star Trek nod with the red LED at the tip! 🚀 It’s always great to see someone have fun with the build. Plus, as a fellow Star Trek fan, I can’t help but appreciate the effort to channel that vibe. 😄
Thanks for sharing your work — it’s awesome to see the NostalgiTone Phaser come to life like this!”
#NostalgiTone
Well, of course. It’s a phaser. It gets a phaser. I was just so glad to find the little icon.
I find that once the overall look of something is close, the little details are the most important. And since there aren’t many little details here, to apply it where I could.
Incorporating a phaser and having a light completely unassociated with it would feel wrong.
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