@brd
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@JasonWickersham , I’m a big fan of blending clean tone for both guitar and bass. There are quite a few great pedals that use it. Remember the phase switch on the Parimix as you are trying different combos in the effect loop, if it suddenly sounds bad, thin or really quiet, you need to invert the phase. The combo is a very unique sound, like I said, it’s not for everyone. The fuzz and boost are great on their own too, I hope you like it.
I’m breaking the rules with this suggestion by not using 3 NostalgiTone boards, but it’s a wicked combo. Try a Paramix with a NostalgiTone 70’s Naga Boost feeding a NostalgiTone Harbinger Fuzz in the Paramix effects loop. With everything on, this is a work alike of the Animato pedal used by Chris Wolstenholme of Muse. It will make some wicked 8-bit synth sounds. If Hysteria or nightshift superstar is not on your play list, then this might not be for you. I built an overly complicated version of this years ago and posted about it here. I used the old transistor Muff board but the Harbinger should get you to the same place. The Paramix is a must have for this combo to let you dial in some clean signal, especially If your going to use it for bass. I recommend using sockets in the Harbinger tone section if you want to modify the scoop and a tone bypass switch might be a cool mod too, also if your using this for bass, use the bass mod for the Paramix.
It looks like the Bat41 has some fans.
Is there any chance you have some 1N5817’s in the MegaRat?
Nice work! The best part of this hobby for me is plugging in a new build and playing with the pedal. I have to try every combination I can think of with other pedals. The same with settings, it’s true most pedals don’t sound great all dimed out, but there is some magic in gain stacking. I’m always looking for another formula, please add in by letting us know what guitar and amp you think worked best to get your sound.
I’m on EST, I’ll check back in the morning.
I’m curious what color LED’s you used, and if they were anything special like super-brite or ultra-brite.
If you used a socket for the op-amps, I would suggest trying another TL072 if you have one handy, just because it’s easy.
Very nice collection and your artwork looks to great. You have more fuzz than granny’s closet. I think the Ornery Shrews is the best name. Do you have a favorite pedal?
Keep up the good work! Barry is doing his best to continue releasing new boards to keep you busy.
Barry has a NostalgiTone Dual Combo Creator PCB just for people who what to make their own combos. It can be used to combine any of the NT singles. * Note: check for enclosure size limits.
The NostalgiTone PreAmp boost should work well if you like the Micro Amp.
You can do a search on the GuitarPCB store page or select “Boost” from the Product Category drop down to find other available boards. The latest single, The Burner is one of the options that was designed to pair with the Stadium Rock.
Sweet! Looks great.
I really like the WattAmp, I play direct into a PA sometimes and it is one of my favorite amp-sim pedals. It’s great for Gilmore tones too. Enjoy it, you earned it.
What’s next?
The Compression Engine sounds very interesting.
I like to use an early and late stage compressor in my rig. I have an old build of a Dyna Comp style circuit with the original CA3080 chip that I have used for my late chain comp. The LM13700 is a working equivalent of the old CA3080 so there is some familiar ground here. I love the Dyna Comp pedal but it adds some noise that is noticeable, and to me It is not really a “transparent” compressor. Also having mod options, is always a plus for me. I’m looking forward to trying this.
Hey the great news is the pedals worked. here are some tips.
de-soldering takes some finesse. I does help to add just a little more solder first, the extra flux helps the old solder flow. Also try to find a good solder suck, Soldapult brand work well.
Always try to preserve the main board and do your de-soldering on the less expensive or more durable components.
when you have a row of pads to de-solder like the ribbon cable you can try using a piece of solid wire to distribute the heat while gently trying to pull it loose.
I Hope that helps
Awesome idea, Not too many players are going to change an EQ mid set. Some folks even tape them over to keep the sliders from moving.
The level control is a great addition, that is one advantage of a Boss EQ.
Hopefully it won’t be too hard to figure out the relation of the sliders to the component values in case you want to use 3 of these on your board. Put one on front for guitar tone shaping, another for post drive shaping and one at the end of your board.
Sweet! Gotta get them all. Nice job on the artwork too. I tell my wife my projects are the only thing keeping me from running for a political office, that guarantees her support.
Barry is putting together some awesome boards. The Bass OverThruster is essentially what I built to sound like the Mike Scheidt Yob pedal in a much cleaner package. Don’t dismiss this as just a bass pedal, it can do Doom guitar as well, try it with low A tuning. This one can really melt your face.
I have built a few special request combo pedals for a bass player. They were for Muse (Hysteria) and YOB (Heavy Doom) sounds. They might not be a good fit but I can pass along the formulas if you’re interested.
Jason,
I recommend using some sockets. Your rig will determine what sounds good. I also added an option to switch to 3 BAT41’s for asynchronous clipping on that same pedal but never liked it in the mix.
I took a quick look at the rectifier bridge diodes you asked about. They have some extra leads to take 2 AC currents and make them DC. I may not have thought of every way you could wire them into a circuit, but the way I see it, you would need 2 of them to make a typical clipping circuit and you would end up with 4 redundant diodes. I’m not saying that is bad, you never know what kind of mojo is hiding behind the science.