@billy
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It’s in the shop Frank scroll down a wee bit, most build docs are usually in the shop listings if you don’t see them in the list that’s the place to look
Sounds like it’s grounding on the enclosure check nothing touches the bare metal of the enclosure when you put the jack in particularly the tip connection when you insert a jack all the way in it’ll move the flexible tip connection outwards
That or when you put the enclosure lid on it’s touching bare metal and in very rare cases it could be a a faulty jack socket if it’s the skeleton type you can twist it to make sure nothing turns that shouldn’t
Easy enough to fix if it does touch the enclosure just loosen the jack and turn it
Replaces R9 to give you more flexibility setting Q3s gain similar to the fuzz pot on a fuzz face
You can check the filtering caps and resistors around the bass pot C10, R11 and the bass pot itself it’s a passive tone control basically 3 low pass RC filters with C9, 10, 11 the pots for each band and R11
I’d imagine with your switch middle position being ‘off’ it may have some affect
Wilkie’s the man for this one it’s his baby !
It’s a 0 ohms resistor in the schematic so go by the BOM and jumper it Robrhy the picture would have been taken very early in it’s development
John need pics of your IN and OUT jack sockets and DC Jack so we can see the wiring
All your resistor values look correct as do the capacitors etc the only one that’s value can’t be seen is C1
Yes try that I did that with my G 02 build when mine didn’t fire up, jumpering S1 and 2 and S7 and 8 cured it
Marc definitely no 1K on the board I should say all the other values are correct everything else is as it should be from what I can see
The only resistor you can’t see is the 33K R20 with no colour bandings that type will have it’s value written on it
It’s very easy to put your cables in the wrong way round when the pedals upside down just check you haven’t accidentally put your in cable in your out jack and visa versa
I’ve done it myself before!…………………
On more than one occasion
Your R19 looks like a 1M it should be a 1K colour bands should be brown, black, black, brown, brown
+1 Wilkie with them being stereo jacks you could have one or both the I and O wires going to the ring solder lug instead of the tip solder lug, put a jack in like the image below and follow them round to make sure you’ve got the I and O from the 3PDT pcb going to the tip solder lugs on the jacks the IN jack appears correct but it’s difficult to see the OUT jack and not all jacks are the same layout so easy to confirm by sticking a jack in, see where the tip connects to and follow it round to it’s solder lug
Tom you can as you say melt the solder and gently wipe it away
If you have a multimeter you can check continuity to see if they’re still in contact
If you look at the schematic you’ll see the trimmer does have 2 legs connected as it’s being used as a variable resistor
Barry also has a soldering video on the guides page
Really nice for a 2nd build
I started with a 1 knob fuzz then jumped straight in with the SWAH which more by luck than judgement fired up right away
You’d be able to fit a small charge pump daughterboard down near your 3PDT if you ever want it to play nice with your other neg ground pedals should still fit in even with a battery snap
I’ve used this one many times
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/05/negative-voltage-inverter.html?m=1
As Wilkie says looks correct but can’t see all of your IN and OUT jack sockets or the DC Jack it’s hard to see where your red wire goes on the DC jack with the black wire obscuring it
Just in case here’s how to wire a DC jack although I’m sure you know from the build doc
And just to make sure on your jacks the ground solder lug is attached directly to the sleeve of the jack socket, the other one obviously being the T for tip connection
It is a bit of a head fryer this one! well it is to me, there are so many things you can do with the paramix it hurts my head but everything you’ve noted looks correct
The easiest way I think to understand it is to use the schematic where you can see everything as it relates to each part of the circuit and follow your signal through that’s what I did to try and fully understand it’s potential
For example you can see where the clean signal goes in and follow it along to P1 which you can see is in the op amp feedback loop so a gain control then P2 mixes the clean signal and if you insert something into IO and II that would add affect to the clean only and so on
As you correctly said clean signal would go into your distortion via send then through and out via return giving you wet / effected signal you can then adjust with the distortions own controls and the wet control
In your case I’d make a block diagram of what it is you want to do then follow it through to make sure you get what you want
Knowing from your posts you’re pretty proficient looking at schems etc I think your own block diagram would be the way to go
Marcus
D1 forms part of the LFO circuit R12 should be between 6K8 and 10K it also provides a rate LED flashing in time with the LFO speed a 1K8 here would provide too much voltage at Q4 collector if you have a value between 6K8 and 10K in your stock use that for R12 rather than a 1K8
From the build doc:
R12 can be increased from 6k8 to 10k if you feel you need a stronger effect. This is related to the LFO
If you are using the most up to date build document it also contains a circuit breakdown explaining what each stage does which is great to learn a little about what the circuit components do
Everybody has their own preferred method I’ve tried them all
At the moment I’ve etched the last 3 builds prior to that it was toner transfer paper using a laser printer the biggest thing I found aside from preparing your enclosure properly was the iron on time, most advise to iron your transfer on for between 10 and 15 minutes I found 5 to 7 minutes max gave the best results
I’d put the transfer on then place the iron on it for a minute and a half set at just below max temperature , then I’d iron in a circular motion for the remaining time I found that if you iron for too long the transfer and backing paper would bond a little too much and make the transfer come off of the enclosure when you removed it, if you see black dots through the backing paper it’s adhered enough
I’d then run it under a cold tap till the backing paper was soaked I’d peel a corner and allow the tap to run on it as I slowly peeled the rest off
So basically the same method as etching without the etching
I’d finish with 2 to 3 thin clearcoats allowing each to dry for 24 hours
You’re obviously limited to black and white so I’d sometimes use transparent paint over it to add some colour or use a powder coated enclosure
Here’s 2 on powder coated and one on a bare enclosure
With etching I sand flat with 180 grit then finish with 400 I tape off the areas not being etched with cheap parcel tape and nail varnish then rather than float in etchant I use a pipette to target the area I want etched this method cuts down on pitting but if you’ve prepared your enclosure correctly you shouldn’t get much pitting
Once you see small black dots of toner transfer that have fallen off appearing in the etchant it’s time to stop I reckon to get a fairly deep etch 15 to 25 minutes depending on the strength of your etchant
Nice tutorial here from Deadastronautfx
My next build I’m going to use paint for golf clubs this stuff to add colour
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193208325152
