Alternative Artwork Method for Enclosures

[Big O]

I read awhile ago about using heat transfer paper (t-shirt paper) for printing and applying artwork to the exterior of pedal enclosures.  There is an explanation of how it is done on the website kitrae.net in the section regarding custom pedal graphics.

I have now made two practice attempts for applying graphics by this method on an enclosure bottom plate with poor to mediocre results, but others may have better luck.  I think I will stick to the photopaper and waterslide decal method as it is easier for me to obtain more satisfactory results.

The first lesson I learned is that you have to peel off the backing from the heat transfer paper after printing leaving a very thin printed plastic film sheet containing the printed graphics while being very careful not to stretch the graphics sheet.  This is one of the difficulties of this method. The author then stated to place the graphics sheet over the enclosure and heat set it with a hair dryer.

I used a heat gun, and although it did set the graphics to the metal, the ends curled up toward the center somewhat and at first it just blew the sheet off the surface, so I taped it down.  Removing the tape pulled off the edge of the transfer film.

You are then supposed to place a sheet of paper over the graphics sheet and press it down into place, which I did.

IMO, I think using an iron as per the actual instructions on the directions of the transfer paper package would work better.  A piece of paper, such as parchment paper used for baking, then could be placed over the transfer film sheet and ironed onto the metal enclosure.  The surface of the enclosure would need to be very flat.

I think I will attempt this on a later date since I still have transfer paper left over for experimenting, just to see how good of a method this is.  It just seems like there is too much work involved and not much room for error for utilizing this method, however.

 

 

[Cybercow]

Big O – I would never consider a heat-transfer method to finish an enclosure. It is, as you’ve discovered, too problematic. Here are a couple of links to what the methods I have tried and prove to be quite effective. Easiest is Barry’s “Photopaper, stick-glue and ArmorAll method: Photopaper Method.

The method I use most often is the waterslide decal method. Here is the link that for me started on waterslide decals: Waterslide Decal Method.

Another method I have the print stock for, but have yet to try, is vinyl sticky-back print stock. You can get it in clear background or white background. It is probably the easiest method, but also quite unforgiving if it not placed exactly correct the first time. I’ve no links for this process, but Google\YouTube can help you out if you are so inclined.

Another method is a lot more involved and first calls for a waterslide, photopaper or other enclosure waiting method. The Epoxy Method.

There are also “etching processes that I have never explored, other than to admire the work of those who got the process down to a scientific art. I have no lies for that, but Google will fill your dreams.

I know none of addresses your process issue(s), but hope some of this helps.

[Billy]

Everybody has their own preferred method I’ve tried them all

At the moment I’ve etched the last 3 builds prior to that it was toner transfer paper using a laser printer the biggest thing I found aside from preparing your enclosure properly was the iron on time, most advise to iron your transfer on for between 10 and 15 minutes I found 5 to 7 minutes max gave the best results

I’d put the transfer on then place the iron on it for a minute and a half set at just below max temperature , then I’d iron in a circular motion for the remaining time I found that if you iron for too long the transfer and backing paper would bond a little too much and make the transfer come off of the enclosure when you removed it, if you see black dots through the backing paper it’s adhered enough

I’d then run it under a cold tap till the backing paper was soaked I’d peel a corner and allow the tap to run on it as I slowly peeled the rest off

So basically the same method as etching without the etching

I’d finish with 2 to 3 thin clearcoats allowing each to dry for 24 hours

You’re obviously limited to black and white so I’d sometimes use transparent paint over it to add some colour or use a powder coated enclosure

Here’s 2 on powder coated and one on a bare enclosure

With etching I sand flat with 180 grit then finish with 400 I tape off the areas not being etched with cheap parcel tape and nail varnish then rather than float in etchant I use a pipette to target the area I want etched this method cuts down on pitting but if you’ve prepared your enclosure correctly you shouldn’t get much pitting

Once you see small black dots of toner transfer that have fallen off appearing in the etchant it’s time to stop I reckon to get a fairly deep etch 15 to 25 minutes depending on the strength of your etchant

Nice tutorial here from Deadastronautfx

My next build I’m going to use paint for golf clubs this stuff to add colour

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193208325152

 

[Big O]

Another method I have seen, but not tried is printing the artwork on clear sticker paper stock.  Takes out the step of wetting waterslide stock artwork, but obviously is quite less forgiving when it comes to placing and adjusting the artwork on the pedal surface.

One of these days I will have to have my artist daughter paint an enclosure for me and see how that turns out.  She is quite talented and teaches high school art as her day job – the only one in her county wide school district that has an Art Ed degree, the first part of her baccalaureate education was spent in a BFA program where she won a few awards for her work.

[Anonymous]

I have had good success lately using HP brochure paper 150g.  This is a heavy glossy LASER paper.  It comes in 8 1/2″ x 11″ sheets.  I use it for color laser printing.  Then, I shoot a coat of clear acrylic on it.  It works well with Barry’s method of wiping a glue stick on it.  I follow up with final coats of clear acrylic to seal and protect it.

Different strokes for different folks.

[Author]

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