@barry
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The drawing is correct.
FX2I should go to 3PDT I and FX2O should go to 3PDT O – Like they are mated to each other. Same as FX1 side.
The I stands for In and the O stands for Out.
Sorry about that I am reworking that now. Everything else is correct.
Just switch the Yellow and Purple wire at one end on the FX2 side only.
Yah I think you wiped too hard or did not apply enough before spreading it around.
You will want the UV protection for the UV protection of your colors in case pedals ever see daylight.
It is more of a smoothing motion than a wiping motion. I guess individual inks & papers might make a difference?
You may want to consider using a hair dryer on the image first before experimenting with wiping strategies.
The idea for my method is that you can create beautiful artwork without needing to use a spray bomb.
There are many advantages to this. People who live in apartments etc…
I suggest after allowing your ink to cure, spray your project with one coat of Armour All (UV Protection Formula)
Then use a Fiber cloth to lightly smooth it all out. Don’t worry it won’t rub off. Let that dry.
Now you can add additional coats as needed no fuss no muss.
What this does is give you a beautiful enclosure that will hold up for years and even better when you get sick of the artwork it is extremely easy to remove with a razor blade and put a new one on.
Hi and welcome.
I think there is a bit of confusion on this so I will try to clarify.
On this modern version of the Angry Red Camel the Hot Switch is what you would hook up with an LED.
The Boost (more of a performance enhancer) is no longer switchable since we made the minimum rotation of the Boost Potentiometer OFF. As you turn it clockwise the Boost Enhancement will take effect. So it works a bit differently although much better.
The Hot Switch (which is now more like an actual volume Boost) will need a switch with the extra row of lugs to add the LED showing whether its engaged or not.
At the end of the day you end up with a Performance enhancer that dials in with the potentiometer and a Volume Boost in the Hot Switch so it is the best of both worlds.
I hope that helps.
Hi Joey.
The SuperLead is based on the BJFEDynaRed. I have been selling this circuit for 12 years and is no secret that the Dyna is based on a Rat topology especially to BJFE. (Google)
That said…
https://www.bearfootfx.com/store/overdrives/dyna-red-distortion-classic-3-knob/
You will note the ADs from the BearfootFXsite for the BJFEcommercial pedal:
Product Description
THEE Classic British Rawk tones. Period. Plexi/JTM, really anything this side of the ’80s.
Dyna Red Distortion 3-Knob = Plexi…JTM…BRITISH!
While I get that it is cool that you noticed it is similar in topology to a Rat that does not mean it is a Rat and I can produce Van Halen like tones with this circuit (see demo). There are also tons of videos of the commercial version that play convincing Van Halen style tones. If you do not like it then that is your prerogative however I and hundreds of other builders love it.
I did not design the circuit. I simply made a great circuit available to DIYers.
I am going to advertise it based on the commercial version ADs and demos. Not, “A pedal circuit with Rat based topology that doesn’t sound exactly like our RATT” because that sounds lame.
Check out this portion of the video demo:
I already sell a superior Ratt circuit. They certainly do not sound the same side by side.
The Paramix is used in a lot of different ways.
That said it is fairly easy to put the Paramix in a 1590BB.
Note : There is this 1590BB example in the Build Document:
Here are some other examples that I grabbed from Google that are not rack-mounted.
Here is a rack-mounted version but more on that at a later date:
From the GuitarPCB Wall Of Tone.
I hope that helps.
I would also be really sure your other pots are not wired backwards.
It is impossible to tell from photos.
