@barry
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Thank you for sharing your success. We always want to know when someone fixes their problem so we are not left hanging in the wind so again thanks and enjoy! Also once you build one of ours all other builds are wired in the same manner but keep in mind there are options within options depending on your build style.
Wilkie is correct. You did not use the (T) or Tip pad on either the In or the Out from the main board.
For others reading: This is why we ask for photos. You get a quick and accurate answer in most cases.
I would suggest being very careful not to overheat the board pads while changing.
Here is one of the many helpful PDF Guides available from the Guides Page which you can access from either the Home Page or the Main Forum Page. Additionally make sure there is a layer of non-conductive protection between the back of any Metal Potis or potentiometers and the solder side of the circuit board.
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/GuitarPCB-Guide-Tonmann-Version.pdf
Since it is a high gain pedal so and perhaps not completely up boxed up (pictures) with all common grounds 100% secure with no cold solder joints that is a sure sign there is a ground issue. We have all experienced the same thing which indicates what to do next.
Touching the ground to remove noise indicates you are grounding the circuit where it lacks.
Could even be too much over spray where the jacks make a connection to the enclosure. Guessing here.
If so scratch away some paint from the jack location on the inside of the enclosure.
Instead of changing the 2 Knob Job from a Distortion Level duty you could make it a Volume Level duty which is also like a Solo Boost. A Stage 3 is also a good idea if you want a more well-rounded boost.
Nice Job and glad you got it all working. Whether it is a 3rd build or 300th build we all still make mistakes.
Not entirely surprised that nobody noticed just how close that BlackCat circuit sounds compared to our OMG Mongoose circuit which is based off of a famous Roger Mayer circuit made more famous by Joe Perry during Aerosmith’s big 80’s comeback. One of my faves which explains why I must have thought of it. While not an exact copy by circuit it is extremely familiar by sound.
Excellent job and I love the way you take time to share your thoughts with photos.
Posting photos on this forum is quite a breeze.
Building up a prototype board before its release is always fun. Thanks for the thoughtful build post.
Incidentally we welcome build posts from all.
We used to have a bit more interaction at the old site host. Unfortunately the old host (WEBS) was not keeping up to date with the times and as a result security was becoming an issue and then finally PayPal released an update that said if your Host does not meet these standards you have two months to figure it out.
Well needless to say I spent every waking moment of two months rebuilding this site from scratch. You may think I could have used an FTP protocol but according to (WEBS) there was none as they had a proprietary system so using an FTP protocol to transfer information was not an option.
The final result after a panic riddled two months is this brand new site with up to date security, features and a much more intuitive search feature when looking for SHOP items or Forum searches.
The only thing I am missing about the old site since last August is the audience participation.
I am hoping with time that will start to happen again here. We had a lot of great conversations before and i look forward to more in the future right here. Thanks for your thoughtful post Cybercow.
Yes. See the schematic and that TR1 is connected directly to the Drain of Q5. TR1 adjusts amounts of resistance (10k) manipulating the Drain Voltage voltage at the transistor. This allows the Drain to be able to swing equally both positive and negative in response to the input signal. The rule of thumb is half the supply voltage, 4.5 to 5 volts. Most power supplies will measure slightly over 9v. Hence 4.5 to 5v.
Hi,
I don’t want to be the only opinion on this (a good topic) but I often shoot for a similar tone when I want to play something like Lynyrd Skynyrd or perhaps other punchy clean tones like A.B.B. or Eric Clapton. So I can relate.
Your search will be based on your ears and rig but I think I can offer some insight. What I typically do is stack more than one Boost or Low Gain Drive with each other and sometimes incorporate a MoRC (Modified Ross Compressor) to achieve my goals. My go to rig is a Marshall Silver Jubilee Reissue and while many would think that an amp like that would offer plenty of clean punch (it does) but not when playing at realistic volume levels. I simply cannot get that punchy tone I love particularly when I set my guitar volume on 7-8 and save 10 for some grit or a solo.
That said this is what I suggest. I like our MKC (Modified Klon Circuit) as a PRE-Boost before all other Drive or Boost pedals but after the MoRC. Pedal placement is extremely important. When that is still not enough I use a Stage 3 Booster (yes it is still on all my pedal boards) as a POST-Boost. In between these two is where I put my Fuzz and Drive circuits.
So lets say I am playing Needle & the Spoon by Skynyrd and I want those picked notes and harmonics to really POP but not breakup up I use the MKC and Stage 3 in tandem (no Ultra Drive engaged) and put my guitar volume on about 7. When I get to the verse section where the chords have more grit I roll up my guitar volume. In this particular case I find the MoRC very useful to even everything out as well. This is not always the case that I choose to engage the compressor.
Here are some circuit suggestions that can work well and all work nicely with single coil or humbuckers:
- Blues Buster – (Bluesbreaker) (with or without AfterBlaster Mod)
- Killer Bee – Low Gain Honey Bee style drive (with built in boost stage)
- XX DoubleShot – A Dual Stage 3 Boost (use one stage or both)
- 3 Time Champ – Nice, powerful low to medium gain circuit
- Sometimes just installing the AfterBlaster (add-on) to any favorite drive set at lower gain settings.
I hope that helps and keep in mind I did not discuss using any of these in tandem (or stacked) with any Fuzz or Drive pedals which I also get excellent tones from because that doesn’t answer your question but I really want to stress that by stacking all sorts of pedals you can have a painters palette of tone in your arsenal not achieved by any other means.
Taking your time to properly gain map your pedals in a proper pedal order is key to your success IMHO.
I hope that helps.
A bunch of stages for starters and as a result a different circuit.
The 69 is more about guitar tone than amp sim. The G.B.D. simulates the tube powerhouse amp as opposed to the the pure guitar tone of the Stones who used prototype SVTs on the Ya-Ya’s tour. Again the 69 breaks up like you would expect a guitar pedal to do and is all about that cranked air pushing tone without needing the volume. As a result you also have a lot of useful in between tones that the G.B.D. does not yield. Coincidentally this why the G.B.D. is a much better circuit for Bass guitar.
Two different monsters really 😉 I hope that helps.
I am not sure about the thread you refer to?
That said this is just my personal opinion and if anyone else wants to stomp on it please feel free.
If you want to build it standalone, you would probably be better off ordering one of the Stage 3 boards, because this one was not really designed to be standalone. It was designed to go into a box with another circuit. Could it be rigged? Yes. Would you want to? I think it would end up being kind of ugly. For one, you would not be able to use the 3PDT part of the PCB. IMHO I would use the right tool for the job here as opposed to something that does not look tidy and perhaps even add to noise? To do it right I would get the Stage 3 Booster for a few bucks and have a nice tidy wiring job.
My actual PM answer was a bit more involved in an effort to be helpful (see below):
Regarding the DSOTM:
“It is variable but follows the rules of most conventional guitar pedals in that you want pedals to have low output impedance and high input impedance. Many pedals have a 500k to 1M input impedance (see schematic). This gives max signal transfer and will help preserve the full range of the sound.
It has a higher input impedance than a classic Fuzz Face circuit (meaning it works well with wah pedals and does not need to see the guitar directly at its input), it cleans up much more gradually and controllable with the guitar volume, it has the ability to get much more fuzzy than a typical Fuzz Face (it can function as a silicon Tone Bender), has a multitude of different tonal variations (and is generally smoother sounding in all its settings than a classic Fuzz Face circuit), it has a much more usable low-gain range.
I do not have exact numbers or currently the time to test but you should find that when mapping this circuit is quite versatile as to where you wish to place it in the chain.
If you require more detail please make a forum post.”
Also to be clear to anyone reading this, PM’s are for order issues. All build questions need to be posted in the forum as I am not always available to answer PMs personally because I am working.
Below is a Photo of the Contact Me form when submitting questions:
Thanks,
BarryI know this thing is amazing! There are like 11 functional circuits not counting mods all within a 1590DD.
This is why we make the boards the way we do in case people wonder. It is all about the combo!
More on COMBO BUILDS.
