@barry
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@ Andreas
Many people do not respond once they have solved unfortunately. This thread is from August.
Please start your own thread with everything we need. Check voltages and report with your finding as well as photos. It only adds confusion when jumping on an old thread.
Your problem is likely a completely different issue and has nothing to do with D2 or wiring board.
I would personally suggest adding a Tone TwEQ for a completely adjustable 3 Band EQ which both adds tone as well as cut tone (in a shelving manner). This to me would be very much like a mini Bass preamp as long as it is built to Bass OD specs and the Tone TwEQ is already Bass Ready (which is why we have two separate boards so folks will actually try one or the other based on their needs). We have no plans for any type of parametric EQ as there is just not enough of a need for one currently.
I would suggest wiring it like this so you only need “One Volume Pot”.
The Tone TwEQ Volume Pot is replacing the “Main Board” Volume Pot in this example.
The only way to make colors especially darker ones vibrant is to use a white, unpainted or light enclosure when using clear sheets.
You can use a different material if you wish to use black pedals.
They even have white water slide paper.
The board is designed for film capacitors at C2 and C7 hence the square silkscreen outline.
All points on the board with silk-screened circles are electrolytic.
The LED silkscreen shows a flat side which is the cathode. Remember FLAT FAT CAT = CAThode
This information is identical for all GuitarPCB Builds.
You can use electrolytic but we prefer to use MLCC or Film capacitors when that part of the circuit is in the Audio Path. There is a good deal of discussion on all of this in the GUIDES Section of the forum if you want to know more about components and choices commonly used in pedals. Especially the Crash Course.
Yes you can wire the LED independently to the foot switch.
The only way for the Main Board to work in conjunction with the foot switch is by using the jumpers which is only two wires for a standard LED and three for a Bi-Color. Even if you are using the 3PDT wiring board (cannot see the problem) it is easy to just tack each wire to the exposed lugs in the center accordingly. This is why I added Lug Numbers to the 3PDT wiring board drawing as a reference to S4, S5 & S6.
100nF allows for the full frequency of a standard tuned Bass Guitar which wouldn’t start rolling off until after the low E. I use a 22n in some applications for 6 string guitar in my projects for coupling capacitors so I have a tight bottom end (value depends on the circuit and variables) with no unwanted low artifacts sneaking through. That said if you play a 5 string Bass and want to make sure to knock the beer bottles off the tables use a 220nF in place of 100nF or put it on a switch.
Hello and welcome.
There is a ton of information in the GUIDES SECTION of our forum for clarification on most anything.
This can be accessed anytime by using the Red Link at the bottom of the Forum Home Page or by clicking on the GUIDES Button on the GuitarPCB Home Page. Enjoy the Photos, Diagrams and PDF Guides.
Here is a great link with a great explanation. Note all of our circuits require a power supply with negative (-) polarity and the few PNP Fuzz circuits we carry incorporate a charge pump to reverse it. This is common to most DIY Pedal Projects with some exceptions of course. We also utilize a protection diode in the majority of our circuits where power connects. That said I appreciate what you are saying however just note that each of our 80 unique projects require negative polarity.
+1 what Billy said. Unless you need the extra pads for add-on boards or a combo.
Here is a photo to go along with what he said. Note the S4, S5 and S6 pads are coordinated with the foot switch lug numbers that are also numbered on the diagram for convenience and as Billy said the only reason we use S6 is when we use a Bi-Color Led to show the Status of the pedal in “OFF” mode. Many Pro’s on dark stages love that feature especially when not standing near their pedalboard.
Note this diagram and many other guides can be found in the Guides section of the forum.
The note above is for anybody reading. CLICK HERE TO GO TO GUIDES PAGE.
Thank you for that!
Here is to more lurkers contributing to the forum!
That would include posting finished GuitarPCB Builds and helping with troubleshooting.
I know you are there 😉
Thanks for the share and super excellent job both inside and out..
I will try to answer a few questions you had: My suggestion is to use a fatter cap for the Strat (100n) and for the Les Paul a (22n) for a tight tone then this switch simply becomes a very useful Strat (single coil – P90) switch on one side and a Les Paul (Humbucker) switch for the other side with no EQ twiddling. Finally I suggest using the circuit at the Lowest Gain settings for excellent smooth sustaining Fuzz tone with excellent clean-up potential and leave the (Full-Up) setting for very low or “Vintage” output guitars.
So the result would be with the switch in one position you would have 22n which is nice and tight for the Les Paul and in the other position roughly 122n for allowing just enough more Bass through for the Strat but still tight. (see image). If the 2nd Cap choice is higher then you will simply add additional Bass Pass through Frequency to the math.
I hope that helps as I have been using this circuit for 8+ years now and remains one of my favorites whether it is the Hot Chilicon of Old or the New SRIRACHA FUZZ of today.
Hey Victor long time no hear. Now I know why. I hope all is going well and glad to see you’re back into building some pedals. Your reverb build looks fantastic. Â Thank you for sharing and welcome back.
PS: If you have not figured it out yet you need to visit this page:
I wanted to add a note that a continuity test shows that (each pad beside every (T) pad) on the In, Out, Send and Return sections all beep and share a common ground and indeed are all ground. So schematically they are ground and physically they are ground.
One other note is this project is mainly designed to add a Blend Knob to an individual project that does not invert the phase into a single enclosure. The Paramix is the Big Brother which has phase switching and is meant to be used in the manner you are using above. The BNB will work but you will have no phase switching unless you add in a switchable gain stage like the Stage 3 Booster.
The Buff N Blend again was meant to be a small add-on board to any Main Circuit giving it a simple Blend control. Due to its size it will fit in a standard enclosure with whatever Main Circuit you are using with it resulting in a cool circuit with a boutique Blend control. The much larger Paramix board has many additional features including phase switching, tails etc but due to its size must be built on its own and is to be used in its own enclosure as a loop.
See below a Modded Muff w/ Tone TwEQ 3 Band EQ and a Buff N Blend all inside a single enclosure.
This was its intended use.
Mouser carries PF5102 and MPSA13 both for under .40 each and offer 1st Class shipping in the US so you can probably grab them at other outlets.
MPSA13 is a good choice in other builds as well.
Google Datasheets, check specs and pinout if you want to try something else and be sure to socket.
Hi and welcome:
- This is the support section. I moved it for you. See the Photo from the Forum Home Page below:
2. If the pedal works fine when using a battery this automatically rules out the the Main Circuit of problems.
I would check the wiring on the JACKs. I cannot help further from the photo provided.
Check your wiring closely with the photo below which is the same for all builds:
This could be caused by so many things.
My first and easiest step would have been as you guessed to try another chip. After that I would re-flow all the solder joints both On and Off board as well as joints connected to jacks and power. All of them. I would also check for any wiring on any part of the circuit to have a loose connection perhaps dangling by a wire hair. The entire circuit.
If that does not pan out (and it certainly doesn’t hurt) then as I said there is a lot to check and we would need a lot more info to go on, namely voltages and photos.
This is also a perfect example of where an Audio Probe comes in very handy so you can isolate the problem area on a large circuit board quickly without guessing. There is more info in a PDF and photo we created on the Guides Page
Use the Audio Probe and follow the audio path highlighted in your build document and listen for where it goes bad and you will know where to focus your efforts.
