[Barry]

Especially if this observation is as extreme as you say you should consider it is quite possible there could be a build issue. Visually recheck and verify all values by color band and part number. For example R11 is 470 ohm sometimes mistaken for 470k ohm. Since I have not previously heard anyone suggest an issue like this and it was not my experience this makes it worth a serious re-check.

If we have pictures we can take a look as well.

[Barry]

Hi,

The 3PDT Wiring board is placed on top silkscreen side up so you will be able to see what is what and also the IN and Out pad sections will line up with the In/Out Jacks.

If placing your CLR and LED on the 3PDT board then you do not need a CLR on the main board. You only need a CLR directly in the part of the circuit where you are using the LED.

I think you will find a lot of good help by checking out our Guides Page

Here are just two guides from the many linked above:

The Combo Build Guide courtesy of Playsforfun.

The Combo Build Thread with examples

Enjoy!

[Barry]

Thanks for the update. Again I had no issue with Dunlop shell using a Red Fasel but that is very good to know if it happens again I will have some alternative troubleshoot ideas if all else fails.

Enjoy the MoWah.

[Barry]

Hi, If you have tried all the Mods (since the physical parameters of an enclosure are never going to be the same) it sounds like the enclosure is physically allowing the heel position to extend outside the performance range of the circuit and certain components can have up to 20% tolerance adding further to a problem. This is not a fault in the components it is just what to expect. This is a reason for the Trimmer.

For a quick and easy fix I suggest using something to keep the heel from going back just that “little bit” too far. A rubber foot used for the bottom of pedals comes to mind as something simple and unobtrusive or anything else you can think of to keep the heel from extending that extra centimeter or so outside of the range of the circuit. There is a convenient spot for doing this in the middle of the back once you find the correct height needed and place it in the center of the back that looks completely normal.

I never had issue with crybaby or vox shells however I have heard of some shells that allow just a tiny bit too much extension. If you have a handy “rubber foot or bumper” simply place it in the heel location that will block the treadle from rocking back too far and give it a try to see if that is the cause. If there is another mechanical way to solve inside the shell I would be interested to hear any alternate solution.

This is not a totally uncommon problem and you can see in this video a fellow found a way that he liked to limit the travel of the treadle:

[Barry]

Wiring the in and out jacks is always the same. see the guide below.

The only thing that is optional depends on the individual builder in that you may use whatever GROUND sources you like as we have provided many for you to choose from. The closest Grounds to the Jack can go to each Jack sleeve.

Your wiring looks fine and those are grounds that you have connected to sleeve. Common grounding is up to the particular builder’s wiring needs. You could just use the Grounds at the In/Out of the Red Special just like in the image above. The T Pads go to Tip and the Pads beside them go to sleeve aka; Ground. Many ways to do the same thing.

[Barry]

Either way socket the Roto-Tone and use it as an “experiment board” for any build and let your own ears decide each time. It is always “subjective” to the builder so “socket and see”

Additionally the Muff’n On-Board mods will yield excellent results.

[Barry]

The difference between Muff variations can be seen in the build document by comparing all versions especially studying only the components that will make a difference tonally. You will see that there is not a lot of difference between variations by component values that actually matter. You can also read up on the Kit Rae page which is also linked in our build document which already breaks every detail down about the variants to an exact science.

All of that said the difference between Muff variants is not very much. I agree that there is a small difference which is dictated by the values listed in the build document it should also tell you that it is not that big of a difference to warrant a massive change in the tone. Opamp version excluded.

My point is that there already is a lot of detailed information available. My thought is that there is not enough difference to warrant 8 versions. I agree with Wilkie in that you should “Socket” the board and test your own values and see what you like and do not be afraid to try other values not listed in the build document. Also obviously when using the Muff Tone control and where it is set will make more or less difference in the Roto-Tone settings. This is also highly subjective so we suggest “socket and see” approach.

[Barry]

Awesome!

[Barry]

“Don’t know how I found this site, but I like what you are doing, and prices are very reasonable.”

I am glad you found the site and the prices reflect a solid value and solid return for me. I recently celebrated 10 years at doing only this for a living (and raising two children entirely on my own) but yes thank you for the comment!

[Barry]

1. The MoRC is already capable of reproducing the most important frequencies for Bass so as a result it will also be fine for guitar. Since the guitar will not reproduce frequencies below what it is capable of it is not really necessary to cut off frequencies at the pedal itself. Technically you could add even more low Bass response by adjusting C1 and C12 at a glance to perhaps 100nF or 220nF (use sockets and test).
2. Not sure on a calculation so Attack Time 4mS at center ATTACK setting and Decay Time 1.2 Sec is the only interesting answer I found.
3. Close to 10:1 or higher. The MoRC circuit is more a limiter than a compressor. The Sustain (Sensitivity) control sets the threshold at which the limiter begins to act… when the signal goes higher than the threshold, there is a short knee as it kicks in, then the output is clamped to a fixed level. The threshold can be varied in a range from about -25dbv to -50dbv. When you have the Sustain control set high, it is only limiting the peaks, and it sounds like mild compression. As you adjust the threshold lower, more and more of the signal is limited so it sounds somewhat like a higher compression ratio.

Many people have analyzed this circuit and others and just about anything you would need to know can be Googled such as in this very informative LINK. While ours may be slightly different mostly everything can be applied to the Ross.

Thanks for the Build doc.

[Barry]

Since you are native French speaking I would suggest Google using the words Baxandall EQ as there is a ton of information out there (perhaps in French) and this would allow you to learn everything you would wish to learn and more if you like.

A Baxandall tone stack is a high/low shelf EQ. Versions can be found in Ampeg, Orange, Tweed Fenders, Sunn amps and more. With the controls set to 12:00, the frequency response is essentially flat, as opposed to a std TMB tonestack, which has a mid-scoop and bass roll-off with the controls set the same. A Bax stack is capable of essentially a mid-hump, which a std stack is unable to accomplish at any setting.

This circuit has been used in every stereo system since the 70’s for good reason and as a result there is plenty of information readily available. Also here is a link to a great Tone Stack Calculator.

Thanks for the Doc.

[Barry]

I will assume you used the image below:

If so then recheck your wiring to the footswitch and be sure there are no cold solder joints and re-flow if needed.

Popping sounds are not the result of this PCB (since we use a pull-down resistor 1M) but could be switch related and there are a plethora of other possible reasons aside from that. You can Google and find several pages full of tips regarding pedal pop. Here is a Good One.

That said since it could be a multitude of things we would need great pics to possibly see if it is something related to the off-board wiring. Be sure to test the pedal (with no other pedals) and with only 2 known good cables and nothing else.

[Barry]

I think that will be very useful and I will put that on the Build Guides page.

Any other Guide or Chart translations you feel helped would be appreciated anytime.

Thank you for sharing.

[Barry]

Freakin Awesome!!!

[Barry]

Since this is a complex build including an LFO I would like to mention that this is an excellent opportunity to use an Audio Probe to quickly check the signal path not only confirming audibly the LFO but seriously narrowing down the area of the board to focus on where the Audio Path check would reveal a fault. Voltages will reveal that the LFO is working and much more but an Audio Probe is also an invaluable tool for listening for where the fault lies and helps beginners solve issues.

Be sure to always make sure the Pot is full Clockwise when testing for phasing as a SLOW phase might be inaudible.

Still provide test results please for Wilkie.

[Barry]

Glad everything worked out.

Use the Wiring guide found on the Guides Page which reminds you about Pot orientation:

and contains other critical reminders for future builds so you will have less trouble shoot issues to worry about.

Here is the image from the Guides Page. I would print it out.

 

[Barry]

Glad to here.

Be sure that none of the unprotected potis backs will have a chance to short out against the board or solder joints. Anything non-conductive will do nicely even some 3M double sided tape.

[Author]

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