@steveo
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These combo builds ALWAYS amaze me! It’s hard for me to keep 3 or 4 circuits sorted out in my brain much less a half dozen and more! Nice work!!!
Lawrence at Love My Switches (https://lovemyswitches.com/) has got an excellent stock of pedal enclosures. Small family owned business in Oregon. Lots of great knobs and dress up items for putting on the finishing touches for your build. Check them out!
I finished the Dist+ as well a few months back and added the Super Tone TwEQ to it as well. Great pedal and as wilkie1 stated you get the option of the MID as well.
Thank you Playsforfun (great explanation BTW) and Barry for clearing that up! I will continue troubleshooting.
I don’t know if there has been a version change or not but this is the stomp switching wiring for the current Apollo Tremolo…
Hope this helps.Nice build John! Nobody sees the guts anyway. 🙂 However; the exterior, everyone sees and you did a beautiful job on that! Well done man!
That is a gorgeous finish job! I’ve never tried the acrylic pour painting but this has me thinking it’s time to give it a try! Nice job man!!
I find using Micro Sol Microscale BMF128 Setting Solution really helps with getting the decals sorted out. It can be found on Amazon or other outlets on the internet. I also agree with Big O using acrylic lacquer after the decal has set for at least 24 hours. 48 hours, for me, is the magic number. 😉
Most excellent!! Don’t worry about the esthetics, like people, it’s whats on the inside that counts. 😉
Some food for thought…. If you are going to build more than a few pedals might I suggest you purchase a couple of Items that will make de-soldering components much easier.
#1. A good solder pump (sucker) https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Removal-Soldering/dp/B08FDY2SGS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1Q152DUPPUAUN&keywords=solder+sucker&qid=1662135846&sprefix=solder+sucker%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPTFZJQjZFM0hDOUomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNDY4MTczNUJSQjFOM1hNRlUxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwOTgxODEySFk5M09QWE5JM0w4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
#2. A good brand of solder wick. Helps remove anything the solder sucker misses, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8TNCY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With those in your arsenal, along with some patients, your chances of destroying a PCB will be GREATLY reduced.If you are building the GuitarPCB “Julius” there is a link for the directions that contains the BOM (bill of materials) in the “Description” of the board here (https://guitarpcb.com/product/julius-a-historic-tribute-to-the-classic-orange-boost-compression-circuit/)
-=SteveO
Thanks Billy for clearing that up! I checked my order receipt from Tayda and they are in fact Schottky diodes not a zener. After looking closer at the BOM I see that it says v4.5 not 4.5v. My bad! 🙂
Thanks again!-=Steve
I ‘teepee’d’ six 1N34a’s (as per Barry’s advice) and now I have a clipping array I can live with!!
Thanks again Barry!Thanks for the diode suggestions! That will save me a bunch of trial and error time. I have several Tone TwEQ PCB’s and 1 or 2 of the Super Tone TwEQ’s. I have not yet tried the Super Tone TwEQ so my next order I include another Emexar PCB and I’ll combo it with the Super. Here is the Emexar photo you requested. Thanks again for the support and the terrific PCB’s!!
p.s. I had some graphics issues on the Emexar so instead of backing up and starting over, I just gave it a little ‘distressed’ treatment.
I haven’t plugged it in yet (wife is asleep lol!) just probed it to make sure everything was working correctly. I’ll take it for a test drive in the morning and if there are any issues I can’t live with I’ll re-flow after checking the resistor values. Thanks!
