@steveo
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Isaac, first off thank you for the kind words!
Next, never apologize for asking questions. That’s how we all learn around here. 🙂
The reason I didn’t install the C8 cap, to put it simply is, that I overlooked it! (Palm plant to forehead)
Now that I think about it, I only had two 560p caps at the time and had to order them. I put the build aside and was working on a couple of other projects at the time. I finished the projects a week or so later, boxed up the Muff’n guts, forgetting it needed the C8, and the rest, as they say, is history. Thanks for pointing that out! I will install that tomorrow and see if my old ears can tell any tonal difference. By the way, this pedal really rocks!Your question peeked my curiosity and I went web surfing to see exactly what that cap did.
There is a great article at http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_guts.html that goes into great detail as to how the different circuits work in the Big Muff. In the “Feedback / Filter Caps” section on that page It explains exactly what that cap (actually the C2, C5, and C8 all 560p’s) do. So thank you for that as well.
Cheers!
-=SteveOPersonally I use “Barry’s Gum Wadz” (https://guitarpcb.com/product/gum-wadz-pcb-mount/) and stick the PCB’s directly to the pot’s themselves. I have done 8 or 10 that way. Just make sure your pedal functions properly before final attachment. Pretty sticky stuff! 😉
Thanks Barry!
The 2 Knob Job is a really cool feature. I used (temporarily) a latching 3PDT switch because the momentary switch I had ordered had incorrect lug spacing to use the 2-KJ PCB. That being said I have located a couple of the correct momentary switches from Tayda and will get another 2 Knob Job PCB (expect the order soon) and switch it out as I believe having the ability to control the effect without having to ‘double tap’ the switch will be more advantageous. As for a sound byte, all I have is my phone to record with but will see how that works out and let you know.Beautiful work, as always! I also always appreciate the explanation/narratives that accompany Cybercows builds! He inspired my first combo build using the Red Special and ToneTwEQ(https://guitarpcb.com/community/search/phat+bottom/)! My latest build consists of a Black Dog paired with an American Fuzz, to be posted in the completed builds area later today.
Thanks gentleman for the suggestions. I will heed your advise. On another note (chalk this one up to another life lesson), I didn’t read the part where it stated that the Russian GT308 has a different pin put. This is what happens when you don’t read/follow the instructions closer. 🙁
On the upside Barry still had two sets for the P.U.F.F. so I purchased both of them.Lincoln, not all PCB’s will be clearly marked as to cap type. But if you look at the schematic for the PCB, it will show exactly what type of cap is needed. (See photo)
I’m not a moderator here but I had the same question regarding a Muff’N build I was doing last week. You can see the discussion here (https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/muffn-build-question/). Part way down the first page Barry will answer your question.
Cheers!
SteveO“I’m using a 40w Weller soldering iron set to “4”, with a Weller conical tip (pictured below). Rewatching your quick soldering tutorial, I’ll dial my temp down to “3” and make sure I’m following your tinning scouring advice.”
I have that same soldering iron and set the temp at just a little over 3. I also ditched the conical tip for a Weller, solid core, screwdriver type, ST Series, Tip Width: 1/16″. This tip allows for better heat distribution over the solder pad and component lead not concentrating as much heat directly to the solder pad. I’d also recommend getting a roll of a good quality soldering wick (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8TNCY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) as this really makes de-soldering clean-up a breeze.
