@steveo
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Looking good! Takes time, patience, and practice to getting good looking graphics. Here is the link for a very good YouTube video on how to install vinyl stickers. I too always had a hard time lining them up just right (you only get one shot). This video will show you a fool proof way of getting it right the first time! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt4soJ4uGA0)
Here are most of my “practices”.
Thanks Bradley. This one was a pre-painted from Tayda. Most of the time I paint my own with a rattle can, but since I was doing the 3 singles I opted for the pre-painted just to save time. 😉
No the decal setting solution wouldn’t work. The vinyl stickers are not porous. I even tried a bondo spreader with lots of force and could not get it to clear up. I wanted it to work so bad because it knocked 3 days off of finishing time.
This is what has worked best for me… (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Krylon-Lacquer-Specialty-6-Pack-Gloss-Clear-Spray-Paint-NET-WT-12-oz/1000462651).
Bradley, I used a transparent vinyl sticker sheets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K32SX5L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) because I was printing on the entire sticker. It was the first time I tried the vinyl and I am very pleased with the outcome. That being said, I tried using the clear on an enclosure that just had some area’s printed and when applied it looked “splotchy” everywhere the clear wasn’t printed. In the past I have always used waterslide (clear and white) and have good luck with them. The only down side, in my experience, if you don’t wait 48 hours after installing the decal to apply the lacquer top coat, it will wrinkle on you. With the vinyl I printed it in the morning, sprayed right after it was printed, and assembled it that night!! By the way, I use a laser color printer for all my work and use a resolution of 600 pixels/inch when creating my artwork.
Cybercow…. you are truly the master of the ‘shoe horn’ when it comes to combo builds! I doff my hat to you sir!
Nice Job Bradley! Very professional looking build indeed!
I built my first amp last year, a Fender Tweed Deluxe (5E3 1X12 from Mojo Tone) so I was very anxious to try out the 70’s Edition to see how it played through my Tweed. To say the least this pedal combo was much more than what I bargained for! I encourage you to find a tube amp and see just what is in store for you.
If you re-download the 60s Build Doc, it has the drill guide on the last page.
Looking forward to seeing your 60’s build posted here upon completion!I did notice the pads. Great option for a 1590b enclosure. I have the NT 70’s Tweed PCB i am going to try that on. As I have gotten older, I prefer working with a larger work space vs. a smaller footprint. 😉
6 different pedals, in 2 enclosures, with a combined total of 20 control knobs and 3 control switches. Add 2 more knobs and 2 switches on the guitar and that equals a whole lot of tone capabilities!!
Let me say first off I love fuzz pedals! The fuzz on the 60’s edition is sweet! Sounds even sweeter when it is run through the tremolo buffer by using the kill switch. Add in the Tweed circuit from the 70’s edition, with the high gain switch on and stand back! The British and the Boost are great together as is the British and the OD from the 60’s pedal. I guess what I am trying to say is that I haven’t found a bad combination of effects on either of these pedals. These two pedals really complement each other! It’s obvious the people at GuitarPCB really did their homework designing these two pedals.Thanks Barry! That’s much better!!
In the mean time I was looking at the build doc and noticed that the resistor “RX” is not shown on the component map. See photo.Nicely done! Love the all white scheme.
I built one of these 18 months or so ago. It has never left my pedal board.-=Steve
