@billy
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
You could also use a 50K trimmer bending the legs to fit the volume pot solder pads then set it to the output level you want ala set and forget
I generally use toner transfer which I iron onto the enclosure
I usually sand the enclosure flat with 80 grit then smooth it out with 120 grit clean it in soap and water and iron it onto the enclosure then I’ll either finish it with a few coats of clearcoat or translucent paint for some colour
The good thing is if you decide to you can always go on to etch it
Once you get the knack of it the toner usually always transfers on fully now and again you’ll pull parts off when removing the backing paper
Basically this procedure I just don’t always etch it
https://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching
I use gimp for my designs, some examples – 1st one I messed the enclosure drilling up so used an aluminium sheet, 2nd one onto a powder coated enclosure, 3rd bare sanded enclosure and last bare enclosure with a few translucent orange coatings
There are other methods like waterslide decals or even Taydas UV printing if you decide to try this method just remember the enclosure gets extremely hot very quickly so pick it up with long nosed pliers and don’t touch it
The on off on switch is labelled SW1 at the top of the pcb it’s for switching between different diodes and no diodes
R12 is a separate mod allowing you to use a DPDT switch for red (hot) and blue (normal) modes if you don’t want to do this you’d place a jumper in R12 if you do wire in a DPDT on on switch like this
.
Post a picture of it so we can see how it’s wired
It’s more than likely not breaking the LED ground connection when you switch it over
Glad it’s working Peter if I’m honest I rarely read the entire build document but I’ve got a DCA75, it’s on page 4 of the 2020 v3.5 doc page 5 of v2 doc
I’m sure you would have got there in the end it’s an easy mistake to make we’ve all done it
To remove the soldered in transistors if you don’t have a solder sucker just do one pin at a time or angle your iron tip on all 3 joints at the same time then you should be able to wiggle it up and out
If you have a solder sucker add more solder this way it melts much easier and is easier to suck out obviously be careful you don’t damage the pads only heat for a maximum of 6 to 10 seconds if you have a small croc clip, clip that across the transistor pins as a heatsink
Get yourself one of these cheap testers they’re pretty good gives you transistor pinout + hfe and tests diodes, inductors, capacitors etc
The transistors are the wrong way around, the board, according to the build doc is laid out for 2N5088s afaik BC549s have the opposite pinout
But double check trying to work out pinouts by orientation from a datasheet isn’t my strongest point
That would make sense using the same transistors in each of your builds they’d not conduct properly I’d expect the output to increase significantly once you turn them around
With the current collector voltages at less than 0.7v the diodes wouldn’t conduct and clip the signal so hopefully that’s it
Your transistor voltages look off I don’t know if you’ve mixed your emitter and collector pins up but even if you have they’re not correct
Those readings you’ve given for the emitters are way too high are those readings with your black probe to ground and red probe to each pin
You’re getting audio through the circuit so they can’t be correct
What transistors are you using
R27 is the LED current limiting resistor only required if you mount your LED to the main pcb
Audio probe the collector of each transistor stage ie the output
Start at Q1 with everything maxed in each switch position if that’s OK move onto Q2 etc that may highlight your problem area
As Barry advises reflow all solder joints It won’t take long just hold your iron tip on each joint for around 6 seconds until you see a nice solder flow that makes a good connection between component pin and solder pad
Post your transistor voltages for Q1 to 4 E, B, C pins
R7 looks like a 100R (brown black black black brown) and not a 1K (brown black black brown brown) it may just be reflection but in the screenshot the 4th band looks black
This means that depending on the sustain pot position more signal would get dumped to ground
There are a lot of components in this circuit that can affect the gain so if you haven’t already check all component values and orientation are correct
It’s more likely to be a short in the effects circuit or a dodgy DC jack rather than your house wiring if it was that I’d suspect you’d have problems using other electrical devices
I’d perhaps remove your power wires from the DC jack and see if the lugs still have continuity as I say if it’s the 3 solder lug type then only the 2 smaller lugs should have continuity with nothing plugged into the DC jack as soon as you plug an adaptor in continuity should break between those 2 lugs
If you still get continuity on the disconnected jack it’s obviously faulty If not it’s on the pcb so check under magnification for solder bridges in the power supply part of the circuit
The ground lug on the 3 lug types can also move so make sure that hasn’t happened
I don’t have a physical pcb to continuity check so
I’d install the 78L05 on the dlay pcb take your VB from the 78L05 output pin or C14 + side and jumper over to the tap tempo VB in pad
You then want to jumper over to PT6 from the R22 pad that has continuity with R9 / time pot lugs 2 and 3
No you shouldn’t have continuity between the ground and power lug on the DC jack that would cause a dead short
If it’s a 3 lug switching type jack you will get continuity between the 2 smaller power lugs until you plug an adaptor in
What issues are you having
