[Billy]

SW1 is the feedback mod known as the script mod which feeds some of the phased output back to the input for more pronounced phasing you can leave that out if you don’t want it

I’d recommend Wilkies 45/90 mod giving you the 45, a more subtle phasing which some prefer also you’re getting both a 2 and 4 stage phaser in the same pedal giving you more tonal options

[Billy]

Hi Tony

P1 is the speed pot TR1 sets the 2N5952 voltages correctly for phasing

Once built you turn TR1 until you hear phasing usually just prior to or around  halfway it’s a set and forget trimpot

[Billy]

Looks like it forms a filter Stu but I always forget which is which in a schematic high pass or low pass

Any capacitor will work but value will obviously change what frequency passes through it to ground, higher value = more bass as you know

If you have a 1uf film or ceramic you can use that or you can wire caps in series e.g. 2 x 2u2 would give you 1u1 but it doesn’t look too good so I never do that

I generally use the closest value and remember caps have a + or –  20% tolerance so a 2u2 for example could range from 1.7 to 2.6

 

 

[Billy]

Nice looks good I’m liking the enclosure apparition it all just fits

How did you do your labelling is it ironed on toner transfer

[Billy]

Chris If you haven’t already check the voltages on your working circuit for comparison

I don’t see anything amiss can’t see R2 and 13

Q4 drain should be the same as Q3 source looking at the schematic what do you get on Q3 gate

 

 

[Billy]

It looks to me that Q1, 2 and 5 drain should be set to around 5v

I haven’t built this circuit but it appears it may be a typo looking at the important bias information

I’d post pictures anyway

[Billy]

Nice! sounds like the mods are a good idea thanks for detailing how they sound etc

I’ll give some a go with the swah board I’ve got lying around

This was my 2nd ever build around 2011 which is still going strong  great circuit

[Billy]

Love the mowah

Yours looks really good much much neater than mine

Very nice

[Billy]

Haha yeah miss the odd thing here and there myself Dan

I’m on most other DIY forums and know you’re keen for knowledge and pretty quick at absorbing it from seeing your builds etc

So do check the old forum which Barry has kept as a knowledge base here lots of good stuff in there

https://guitarpcb.webs.com/apps/forums/

 

[Billy]

Alright Leif

I’ve checked all your values that I can see which are correct, can’t see colour bandings for

R4, 10, 11, 12, 14 and 15

R10 and 12 are attached to the tone and level pots respectively

Make sure you have the correct pot values in the correct places incorrect pot value and taper would cause bunching up.

Noise could be several things lead dress as Barry points out and  non filtered non regulated power supplies as well as external causes cables, lighting etc

Again as Barry says best way to rule out power supply noise is try a battery which is pure DC and not AC coming from your wall socket and being converted to DC through your power supply circuit which if not filtered will introduce AC ripple noise

What make of power supply are you using

[Billy]

Looks like that’s correct Dan

D'Lay Tap Tempo Switch (Solved)

 

[Billy]

All your values look to be correct can’t see R8 and 12

It may well be the intricacies of this circuit the eq is passive so you cut rather than boost frequency unlikely though

When you say volume drops is it just when you turn treble up and do you adjust volume to compensate if so does it work

As you can see from the schematic treble output goes straight to volume input lug 3 and out to your amp via lug 2 or dumped to ground via lug 1 depending on whether you turn it up or down

You may not get accurate readings with it in circuit but check with no power to the circuit if the volume pot resistances change turn it all the way down and you should have a smaller resistance between lugs 1 and 2 and higher between 2 and 3 and visa versa

I’ve not built this circuit yet so perhaps one of the guys that has can let you know it’s behaviour

Barry advises in the build doc controls section to set all eq to the middle and adjust volume etc from there

[Billy]

You’re better to post some nice clear in focus pictures of both sides of the pcb and offboard wiring so that we can check and trace it

There are a few components surrounding the treble pot that could affect it

[Billy]

Yes you could have but I didn’t suggest that initially because you don’t want the other non connected pin to possibly short on something not that I think you’d have let that happen with your previous heat shrinking and making sure everything was insulated!

If you didn’t have any standard LED’s that would have been my next suggestion using the red side which is always usually brighter

I actually prefer standard LED’s in this circuit you only get the blinking LED in effects mode and not all the time as soon as you power it on

Anyway glad you got it going excellent!

[Billy]

Your multimeter should light them briefly if you put ground to centre pin and positive to any outer pin in diode mode, if it does they are indeed common cathode

If it lights with positive to centre, ground to any outer they’re common anode

You can tell if you hold it up to the light with standard LED’s the thicker internal pins are cathode but not so easy to tell with bi colours I know I’ve just looked!

It is a fairly common mistake to get the wrong common pin type with bi colour LED’s and easily overlooked

I can see your images better now that I’m at home on the PC not at work on my phone R12 looks like 6K8 which is fine so it’s definbitely not your CLR being too high a value

 

 

[Billy]

If they’re common cathode they won’t work that could be your issue the centre common pin is cathode / ground instead of anode / power

Easy enough to check if you’ve got a coin cell battery just slide it between the middle and an outer pin if it lights with negative to centre and positive to outer it’s common cathode and that will hopefully be your only problem

If you’ve got standard LEDs you can use them anode to centre cathode to outer pad without the white box remove your bi colours at LED side and not the solder pads or simply cut the wires and solder them to a standard LED as described

Double check your CLR resistors R12 and 16 which can’t be clearly seen in your images before anything else colour bands should be brown grey black brown brown 1K8

D2 doesn’t really matter it’s just an indicator D1 as I say has to work for the circuit to function

[Billy]

Did you get them from Barry common anode?

[Author]

Posts