@billy
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The easiest way to remember switching is the centre terminals are the common terminals and you either connect the middle common row to the top or bottom row
If you look at GPCB pedal 3PDT wiring as an example the centre lug is ground the LED will light when it’s connected to ground in this case it’s cathode ground side is connected to lug 4 so when the centre common and top lugs are connected it lights (purple lines) if you wanted it to light switched the other way you’d simply wire the LED cathode ground to lug 6 which again would connect with lug 5 ground when switched the other way (red lines) lighting the LED
Ty because you’re saying you’re fairly new to it
Have you taken into account that the holes (solder pads) do not have continuity each individual hole is not connected
If you have a schematic and meter use the continuity check from in to out making sure it connects as it should
Hi Patrick
D6 is reverse polarity protection so wouldn’t affect the tone basically protects against putting a centre positive ps in accidentally
I built my ratt to original specs so no problem there
You’ll find that info just below the BOM in the build doc
It’s on the old site here
https://guitarpcb.webs.com/PDF%20Files/Over%20Drive%20Circuit.pdf
Just remember to put webs.com in the URL
Lots of good info still there
You’d need to drill a small hole for the tab to go through otherwise it won’t sit flat / flush when you put the pots through their drill holes
So a lot easier just to snap them off
As Barry says just use long nosed pliers to grip them and snap them off in a sideways motion
Double check your IN tip ( I on the 3PDT pcb) is connected to the tip solder lug on the jack socket and not the ring
Just put a jack in the socket and follow it around to the solder lugs
Some of your solder joints on the IN and OUT sockets look dry reflow those and add a little more solder
Give it another try whilst you wait for your new stuff
Connect your wires directly to the pot lugs and it should work
Texture as you can see lug 1 to ground (So just a wire soldered directly to lug 1 and any ground), lug 2 to R9 you’d need to continuity check to make sure you solder to the correct side of R9 you’d want the side that doesn’t connect to Q3 base and lug 3 to C7 side that doesn’t connect to Q2 collector
Volume lug 1 to ground again, lug 2 to circuit output on 3PDT switch and lug 3 to C11 side that doesn’t connect to R10
Doesn’t look great but if it works it doesn’t matter and as you say worth doing it to learn
You can bypass the pad you’ve lifted by using a bit of wire
Which pot is it
If you look at the schematic you can see what each pad connects to
You can check the trimmer adjusts resistance
It’s wired as a variable resistor, with no power to the circuit check the resistance between legs 1 and 3 the two legs next to each other, turn it fully CCW then CW and see if the trimmer resistance changes
You could also try swapping transistors if you’ve socketed them to see if it’s potentially a problem with Q3 transistor
Just swap any Q that biased ok with Q3 and see if you can get it to bias
I would try the 5457 first there are differences but should be fine in this circuit
Double check the pinout
No Stu that’s just the LED current limiting resistor
What’s the rusty looking patch near D5 and 6
Did you try reflowing the volume pot solder joints? the out tip solder joint looks a little dull too
