[Billy]

In the latest version R31 is the CLR

[Billy]

A couple you should look at that have tone pots / trimmers are the grind customs de profundis delay and Jon Pattons hamlet delay

[Billy]

Yes they’ll be connected in one of the layers

You can continuity check all ground pads are connected with your meters continuity test function

I don’t know your experience but here’s a PDF just in case you’re not familiar with continuity testing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/176vVBWeRaSQ0QvZlnozjKHE6AeHsvxFP/view?usp=drivesdk

 

 

[Billy]

All board grounds are connected to each other that particular ground is if you’re using it for a volume knob see the build doc wiring for a volume knob (voltage divider) where you would need to ground lug 1 via a small jumper making it more convenient allowing you to leave a longer wire out

SW1A is the common anode bi colour LED ground connections, you don’t need to separately ground that

 

[Billy]

Here’s some PT2399 data notes that should help explaining what sets unity gain, noise filtering etc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ra2Dg6j8X_qfJAmEfbz86knfPvUYilHR/view?usp=drivesdk

As CC says I’d probably try adding tone circuitry on the clean signal where it meets delayed signal after C24 prior to pin 6 IC1B

[Billy]

Here’s a PDF explaining the audio probe and it’s use etc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9OsJ0riQhm1QFWPfNQ5q5guikuFKDRN/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[Billy]

Many people including myself have built it as is with no adverse affect so I’d build it per the build doc, it being a blend and buffer circuit rather than just a buffer

[Billy]

You can put more or less any cap in it’ll work but may not have the desired frequency / tone

I don’t think it’ll make a massive difference with your substitute choices

I’d socket them and you can always put the correct values in later if you wish

 

[Billy]

Increasing gain would be much more gradual using an A taper

At 50% rotation a B500K would be about 250K where’as an A taper would be around 50K

It would still work but may be bunched up in the last 10% with the pot being wired as a variable resistor

You can see the difference in this diagram

 

[Billy]

Sounds more like something’s mis biased Randy

Did you test the circuits individually before combining them

Did you try adjusting TR1 to see if it makes a difference

Here’s Tonmanns phase determination guide

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AGCu7TdhkkUw8hQppFhScZNhu744T1LM/view?usp=drivesdk

Post some nice clear pics of the board so that component values and orientation can be clearly seen and wiring traced

[Billy]

1K5 will be fine with no adverse effects

[Billy]

From the schematic it looks like you can leave the switch out and of course the BLEVEL trimmer the op amps look powered directly from the power circuit

So I’d leave them out you can always add a jumper if needed I’m not 100% on whether the NSL 32 is powered from there continuity check to make sure

Don’t use a 3PDT board with this build D1 is part of the LFO circuit wire it as shown in the build doc

The dot according to the datasheet is the negative side

 

[Billy]

Post some nice clear images Zander so that component value and orientation can be clearly seen and wiring traced

[Billy]

Make sure your in and out cables go to the correct sockets it’s very easy to put your out cable to in socket and visa versa with the box the wrong way up

You’d still get bypass but no effect

All components I can see look correct can’t clearly see the resistors at the top of the board or D2

[Billy]

Just a side note I’ve had a batch of alpha pots that were all faulty I had years of no problems then a short period of where I had around 5 pots from the same batch doing strange things

One I couldn’t get to work in circuit took it out tested it and it appeared good I eventually changed it and the problem was sorted it was a volume pot doing the same thing

Obviously make sure any resistors on the main PCB are correct I can’t quite make out the 4th colour band on R9

[Billy]

Easy enough to check resistance varies on the pots

Because they’re wired as variable resistors resistance should change across lugs 1 and 2 as you turn it

With no power to the circuit check all pots vary as you turn them

You may not get accurate readings but that doesn’t matter you just want to check it varies

Make sure none of your solder joints are dry or connected  between lugs 1 and 2 obviously lugs 2 and 3 should be connected

[Billy]

Sounds like resistance is not being changed on one of the gain pots they’re wired as variable resistors in the op amp feedback loop so should change resistance as you turn them

Its difficult to see how you’ve got it all wired from what I can make out you have the original gain pot installed on the main pcb? From each each wiring guide in the build doc the original pot is not installed the connections are jumpered over to the 2KJ pcb so you can switch between the 2 pots installed there

Perhaps upload a drawing of how you have it all connected

[Author]

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