Emerald Ring (solved)

[Anonymous]

Hey,

I’ve tried using R14 as my CLR on my 3DPT board but to no avail. That might because of the fact that R14 is a 1k8 resistor and that the one required should be between 2k and 4k7. I’ll get my hands on other resistor this week-end, if I manage to.

[Anonymous]

Hey,

I’ve now tried using a 4k6 resistor as my CLR but my LED still doesn’t work.

Here are two pictures of the current build: https://drive.google.com/open?id=164-U5xXls3r8qtXiyiWVjZg6hE3h7PFq

Please let me know if you guys would like better pictures!

Thanks!

[Cybercow]

Couple questions . . . .

1. Does the main circuit work (sound) as it should?
2. Are you using a “common anode” or “common cathode” dual-color LED?

[Anonymous]

1. Yup it does!
2. I am using a common anode dual-color LED.

Thank you for the quick response!

[Cybercow]

Gaétan – at this point, I suggest testing the continuity between the outer LED leads to their respective lugs on the stompswitch and center LED lead to the CLR resistor. The center LED lead should read 0Ω to one side of the CLR resistor – that’s side closest to the ground wires – and the other side of the resistor should read the value of your CLR resistor.

[Anonymous]

The center LED lead should read 0Ω to one side of the CLR resistor – that’s side closest to the ground wires – and the other side of the resistor should read the value of your CLR resistor.

All good!

 

I suggest testing the continuity between the outer LED leads to their respective lugs on the stompswitch and center LED lead to the CLR resistor.

Reference:

I get no continuity with the middle LED lead no matter what lug I test it with, I do get conitnuity when testing A & 5, A & 8 as well as C & 2 though.

[Cybercow]

Gaétan – The center leg of the LED does NOT connect directly to any lug on the stompswitch. The center leg of the LED goes to one side of the CLR – the side closest to the black ground wires.

Referencing your photo, A goes directly to 8, C goes directly to 2. Pin 5 of the stompswitch should test direct to ground.

Also, you should be able to measure 9v between the red wires and the black wires.

[Anonymous]

Hey,

While doing some more testing, I found out that I could slightly turn on the LED by connecting the end of the resistor to whatever LED lead I wanted (blue or red). The issue is probably between the resistor and the LED then, right? That seems weird because the end of the resistor is well connected to the middle lead.

Also, the fifth lug is indeed connected to the ground but it’s also connected to the red lead of the LED.

 

Hope that helps,

Gaétan

[Cybercow]

Gaétan – it sounds entirely like a connectivity issue. If you can get the LED to light by manually connecting specific points, it’s very possible one or more of the pads on the stompswitch PCB were fried.

[Barry]

Please check the Guides Page:

Your 3PDT Pad numbering (shown above) is opposite what it should be. Again refer to the Guide.

That said I think you may be using the wrong LED type. We require Common Anode and not Common Cathode. It is an easy coin battery test “see image below” Only use battery under 4v.

 

Here is the wiring and especially the 3PDT Lug Numbering from the Guides Page

 

Here is the Continuity Test from the Guides Page:

[Billy]

With regard to your common anode bi colour LED you should have continuity as follows

Note all 3 square +9v pads have continuity with the CLR so it doesnt matter which one you use

[Anonymous]

Hey,

I’ll get back to you guys on Monday with some more informations.

 

Thanks!

[Anonymous]

With regard to your common anode bi colour LED you should have continuity as follows

Note all 3 square +9v pads have continuity with the CLR so it doesnt matter which one you use

All good!

 

Your 3PDT Pad numbering (shown above) is opposite what it should be. Again refer to the Guide.

That said I think you may be using the wrong LED type. We require Common Anode and not Common Cathode. It is an easy coin battery test “see image below” Only use battery under 4v.

I tested my LED and it is indeed a common anode LED as mentionned previously.

What it could be?

[Barry]

A faulty switch which can happen from overheating a lug is possible, a cold solder joint etc. If the LED works outside of the connection (ruling out a faulty LED) then it should work with the connection unless something is breaking that connection. That will be hard for us to discover through photos. I would start by testing continuity with the switch in both positions.

[Anonymous]

Good news everyone, the pedal is 100% working!

The LED wasn’t turning on because I my pedal wasn’t plugged to any amp/guitar, oops.

Thank you very much for helping me finish my first pedal!

Gaétan

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