American Fuzz Pro – Help with first build diagnostic/troubleshooting?

[Anonymous]

Hey Billy thanks so much for this.  I’m not sure if I’m any closer to figuring this out, but I made the following determinations.  I have continuity between the 9v pad to CLR and on the other side of CLR to the anode.  When I do a continuity check between lug 5 (ground) to the anode the LED lights up.  The same thing happens when I do a continuity check between ground to the leg of CLR.  I tried measuring the voltage from ground (lug 5 to the anode and it looked like 0.01 but wasn’t consistent)  I did have to swap the resistor in CLR from 3k3 to a 1k resistor – I hope this doesn’t mess anything up.  Any ideas?  Again, thanks so much – I’m working my way through the guides on this site – and I’m already realizing a lot of things to do differently next time.

Again, many thanks!

Best,

G.

[Billy]

Sounds like you may have a poor ground connection to the LED

Your meter passes a small current through it so would make it light up

A 1K will just make it brighter

Try reflowing your solder joints and make sure your 3PDT lugs have continuity as you know ground is connected to lug 5 with LED cathode to lug 4 which grounds the LED illuminating it in effects mode (throw 1) switched the other way it disconnects from ground switching it off for bypass mode (throw 2)

The middle row being the common row which just switches between throw 1 and 2 as you stomp on it

You can check your switch for continuity by checking the middle row 3 lugs with the top 3 click it the other way and check middle with bottom row, the purple and red lines in the image

[Anonymous]

Yes I think I really messed up and I’m lacking ground to the 3PDT PCB – I was looking at my 3PDT and I realized that having followed this image:

I had to compensate for the fact that my main PCB only has one 9v and one Ground – unlike the PCB in the image which has two – so mine is wired from ground on main pcb to the ground on the DC jack, and then to battery snap.  I suspect I should have run ground from main PCB to the 3PDT ground in – and then from another ground port on the 3PDT PCB to the DC jack.  Does this make sense?  I realize that my LED problem is fairly small in the scheme of things, so I feel bad asking you to help me more than you already have – my pedal will be functional and I owe you thanks for that – I don’t want to take advantage of your help when others likely have more significant issues but if what I said makes sense perhaps let me know if you can and I’ll go ahead and re-wire it that way.  Thank you so much!

Here’s how it’s currently wired:

Best,

G.

[Billy]

That’s what we’re here for G no problem’s insignificant

What we do as moderators is initially all offer advice and usually one of us with a little more time will take the debug on to its conclusion and hopefully get it working as it should

We all started somewhere! non of us were born making pedals and we’ve all made the same mistakes

For simple ish stuff I’m your man! the more complex technical stuff I’d leave to Wilkie, Cybercow and Barry who all have a better knowledge than me

Anyway

You can run a jumper wire from the S5 pad on the main pcb which is ground to any ground pad on the 3PDT pcb

 

[Anonymous]

All working!  Thanks again so much for all of your help – I’ve learned so much after this project, but I couldn’t have done it without your help!  I’ll be sure to post it to the completed forum after it’s all done.

Again, many thanks!

Best,

G

[Billy]

Great glad it’s all fixed

When drilling your enclosure you can use a template to mark all your holes etc

Similar to the one below, you can edit and print it to ensure it fits the way you want it and your labelling etc won’t be obscured by knobs, switches etc and have clearance e.g. you don’t want to drill your in and out jack holes too close to the edge where the may come into contact with the enclosure top or bottom when it’s all screwed shut you have to make sure you consider the internal screw holes the thickness of the enclosure walls and so on as seen in the template below

This one was taken from here and edited in gimp2 for 2 knobs

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u3zzqiklxgb07vt/AACOJf2VJy60YRSS9yTIezg1a?dl=0

There are many methods for labelling your enclosure Barry demonstrates one on the guides page

Whatever method you choose you are always better to print off a drilling template to the size of the enclosure you’re using, cut it out and see how it fits, then once you’re happy tape it on and use a centre punch to mark your holes and drill a 3mm pilot hole to prevent your drill bit slipping when you drill all your holes to the correct size, you will find all drill hole sizes in the beginners guide to components for 3PDT, potentiometers, jacks and switches etc

I personally take some time doing this making sure the pcb, pots, switches, jacks will fit inside the enclosure as intended without touching the sides etc, I’ll only drill my holes once I’m sure it’ll all fit. I usually dry fit everything on top of the enclosure before drilliing as a final check, everybody does it differently but we all definitely measure, measure, measure! Enclosures after all are one of the most expensive parts in DIY pedal building

I drill before I label with the labelling method I use, some prefer to do it the other way around label first then drill, then as with the drilling template I’ll do one for my labelling print it off put it on the enclosure and poke a pen through the holes and place my knobs on it to make sure it all lines up and nothings obscured

There is also a list of enclosure sizes taken from hammond in the guide albeit they will vary a little so best just to measure your own enclosure

 

[Author]

Posts