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- This topic has 13 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 8 months ago by
Anonymous.
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June 4, 2019 at 7:30 pm #6019
Anonymous
InactiveHey everyone. I’m in the middle of assembling a set of true bypass loopers for my board, I’m using the 3PDT boards and dual-color LED’s. I’ve put together a diagram and I was hoping to get some feedback on it’s viability. It looks right to me, but then again the last one I did I soldered every wire to the switches themselves, this is a bit new to me doing it with the boards. The view is a bit bastardized, as the boards are shown technically upside-down and the view is from underneath the enclosure.
Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!
-ShanonPS – right-click the picture and open it in another window to see it full-size.
June 4, 2019 at 8:55 pm #6021Anonymous
GuestYour wiring looks correct to me. Nice drawing.
June 5, 2019 at 7:17 am #6022Anonymous
InactiveThanks Wilkie! I wasn’t 100% sure on the grounds, and I originally had a separate ground for each jack. After realizing it’s case-grounded, and I was over-grounding it, I omitted the extras and went with a single line between each board.
The only other thing that I’m not quite sure on is the LED. It’s a dual-color red/blue. I want it red when bypassed, so that would mean the 90 degree leg (red) goes on the square white pad, correct?
June 5, 2019 at 1:05 pm #6023Anonymous
GuestThat is correct. The white pad is for the bypass color LED.
June 5, 2019 at 1:42 pm #6024Anonymous
InactiveExcellent, thanks for the help!
June 9, 2019 at 5:38 pm #6062Anonymous
InactiveFor anyone interested, here’s a cleaner picture of the loop-switcher diagram:

@Barry – If you want to use this on the site at all, feel free. I left some space in the corner for you to add your logo.November 30, 2019 at 4:00 pm #8038Anonymous
InactiveI know it’s been a bit since this post, but I just finished putting one of these together for my board and #3 and #4 doesn’t work. 1,2, and 5 work great. 3 and 4 pass clean signal but as soon as I hit the switch it kills everything. I replaced 3 and 4 and it still does the same. Could it be the jacks? I went back and re-flowed the solder on the jacks but still nothing. Any thoughts? The LED’s work but no sound when activated. I will post a pic shortly.
Thanks
November 30, 2019 at 4:48 pm #8043Anonymous
InactiveFor some reason I can’t post pics. I insert the image and hit submit but it won’t post
November 30, 2019 at 5:28 pm #8044Anonymous
InactiveI re-tightened the jacks and #4 started working but #3 is still a no go.
November 30, 2019 at 6:40 pm #8045Anonymous
Inactivereplaced the jacks on #3 and that fixed it
November 30, 2019 at 6:51 pm #8048Anonymous
InactiveI was just going to reply when I saw you replaced the jacks. I had the exact same issue with my 2nd unit. Drive me nuts for hours until I realized the jack was bad. Glad you got it fixed!
November 30, 2019 at 6:57 pm #8051
BarryKeymasterAs far as posting pics here is a test:

It is working I would try again.
November 30, 2019 at 9:26 pm #8056Anonymous
InactiveI tried again but I must be doing something wrong.
November 30, 2019 at 10:04 pm #8057Anonymous
GuestI’ve had jacks work loose over time. So, Using a separate ground wire connecting all jacks to the central ground will prevent that from being a problem.
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