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Hey gang, first post here. First off thank you Barry for making killer PCBs at reasonable prices.
I’ve been working on a who’s next build. The first attempt I got a capacitor value wrong, volume was super low, and in the process of troubleshooting to figure that out I cooked a solder pad off the board. Board 1… Toast
Bought a second board, this time it had no sound at all. Swapped 3PDT and switched from a Varibrite 3PDT board to a standard 3PDT board, still no sound. In the process of troubleshooting, say it with me, cooked a solder pad off the board. Board 2…. Toast.
Before I try again with my third board, can someone share with me a picture of their completed Who’s Next board? I haven’t been able to find one on the internet, and it helps to see how the wires are routed and components are populated.
On Build 3, i intend to triple check each part value (using a pf/nf/uf converter to be safe), AND check for continuity after each solder.
Also, do you have any tips on removing pcb-mount pots without separating the solder pads from the pcb?
You should post a picture of your completed build so we can see what was wired wrong.
If you are melting pads either you may be using to much heat, too big of a soldering tip or perhaps not using a de-soldering pump.
If there is no sound does that mean in bypass as well?
As for completed builds these are the ones that I grabbed from a search of the forum:
“Also, do you have any tips on removing pcb-mount pots without separating the solder pads from the pcb?”
Use a self-heated soldering pump. Handling is fool-proof, it costs just a few $/£/€ and it does magic.
Barry, thank you for the quick response! Pictures of pedal wiring below. Perfect sound in bypass mode, zero sound when pedal is turned on. Same behavior with two different 3PDT switches/boards.
I’m using a 40w Weller soldering iron set to “4”, with a Weller conical tip (pictured below). Rewatching your quick soldering tutorial, I’ll dial my temp down to “3” and make sure I’m following your tinning scouring advice. I’m also going to triple check part values using a nf/pf/uf converter, and continuity test after every solder.
I’m using the solda-put, but axelence referenced some hitherto unencountered hoodoo, self-heated? I’ll look into those!
“I’m using a 40w Weller soldering iron set to “4”, with a Weller conical tip (pictured below). Rewatching your quick soldering tutorial, I’ll dial my temp down to “3” and make sure I’m following your tinning scouring advice.”
I have that same soldering iron and set the temp at just a little over 3. I also ditched the conical tip for a Weller, solid core, screwdriver type, ST Series, Tip Width: 1/16″. This tip allows for better heat distribution over the solder pad and component lead not concentrating as much heat directly to the solder pad. I’d also recommend getting a roll of a good quality soldering wick (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8TNCY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) as this really makes de-soldering clean-up a breeze.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone!
Solved: general tips: make clean soldering joints, turn down your iron, use desoldering wick or a self-heated pump, and I’ll refer to the image posted for my wiring on the next attempt. Thanks!
So where are all the missing potentiometers?
Yep. That threw me off thinking there was a DPDT switch missing. Duh!
I was in the process of removing them to check the solder joints on the other side, when I burned a pad off one of the pot pads.
I’ve got another board in the mail, I’ll post a success pic to this thread after that one’s back together.
One of the techniques you need to learn is how to KLUDGE a wire to bypass a missing pad. If you look at the schematic, you can find the component that is connected to that missing pad. Then attach a wire from the pot lug to the closest component leg that attaches to that missing pad. That process is called a KLUDGE.
No need to throw the entire board away. I’m sure Barry, Cybercow and Billy have all done this before.
Alright gents. Build #3 was a bust. I apologize for my inexperience, I promise I’m a fast-learner and I appreciate all guidance.
Problem: When pedal off, perfect sound. Pedal on: no sound at all.
Pictures below. If this was you, what would you start checking? I have a multimeter, a solda-pult, and a seemingly endless amount of patience.
Please hold. Q1 wasn’t properly soldered. testing now will report back.
IT WORKS!! AND SOUNDS GREAT!
Moral of the story- check your solder joints, you should see solder on the top of the board.
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