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I’ve checked every component on my build for correct values. referenced the build guide for the V3 so many times to make sure the wiring is correct. When its powered on the volume pot/3ptd switch are the only parts that work.
the volume pot is pretty hot sounding, actually its a cool OD sound…but the actual effect is not happening nor are any LEDs lighting up.
Are your LEDs standard or bi colour it’s difficult to see if they’re standard 2 pin LEDs the cathode (minus ) needs to go into the pad without the white box and anode + to the centre pad
The circuit won’t work without D1 functioning it’s part of the LFO
Bi-color
No, I actually don’t remember where they came from but they are red/green and I’ve tripple checked the wires. That’s why they are shrink wrapped like that.
If they’re common cathode they won’t work that could be your issue the centre common pin is cathode / ground instead of anode / power
Easy enough to check if you’ve got a coin cell battery just slide it between the middle and an outer pin if it lights with negative to centre and positive to outer it’s common cathode and that will hopefully be your only problem
If you’ve got standard LEDs you can use them anode to centre cathode to outer pad without the white box remove your bi colours at LED side and not the solder pads or simply cut the wires and solder them to a standard LED as described
Double check your CLR resistors R12 and 16 which can’t be clearly seen in your images before anything else colour bands should be brown grey black brown brown 1K8
D2 doesn’t really matter it’s just an indicator D1 as I say has to work for the circuit to function
I actually think they might be common cathode…..
I don’t know if you can tell from the pic. When I test them with my multimeter the center is ground.
Your multimeter should light them briefly if you put ground to centre pin and positive to any outer pin in diode mode, if it does they are indeed common cathode
If it lights with positive to centre, ground to any outer they’re common anode
You can tell if you hold it up to the light with standard LED’s the thicker internal pins are cathode but not so easy to tell with bi colours I know I’ve just looked!
It is a fairly common mistake to get the wrong common pin type with bi colour LED’s and easily overlooked
I can see your images better now that I’m at home on the PC not at work on my phone R12 looks like 6K8 which is fine so it’s definbitely not your CLR being too high a value
SOLVED!!!
That was it, the Bi-Colours were the culprits. I just swapped them out for some regular LEDs and it worked perfectly.
Now my question is…could I have just wired it so the anode of the bi color was in the correct spot and the common went to the white box?
Yes you could have but I didn’t suggest that initially because you don’t want the other non connected pin to possibly short on something not that I think you’d have let that happen with your previous heat shrinking and making sure everything was insulated!
If you didn’t have any standard LED’s that would have been my next suggestion using the red side which is always usually brighter
I actually prefer standard LED’s in this circuit you only get the blinking LED in effects mode and not all the time as soon as you power it on
Anyway glad you got it going excellent!
thanks for all your help!
I’ve checked every component on my build for correct values. referenced the build guide for the V3 so many times to make sure the wiring is correct. When its powered on the volume pot/3ptd switch are the only parts that work.
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