@chingham
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I bet if the lower row of knobs was compressed into a standard 4-3 configuration you would have enough room to stash it on the sidewall. Cool thought @barry
@sofnwhat Thank you! I appreciate the compliment greatly! I come out of the Plexi where lug 3 of the volume pot would go to intercept the incoming signal. That goes to the input of the Tone TwEQ and you’re off.
Placement of the board can be tricky, and bending over electrolytic caps is generally necessary. Would be much easier in a 125BB, but you can get it to work in a 1590BB as you can see.
Thanks everyone, I have never actually owned a muff or played with one very long so I wasn’t really sure how the volume reacted. I will check out a few things you all posted above and post a new support thread if I can’t get it louder. I was looking through previous posts to see if someone else had a similar question and just jumped on this one.
Hey Cybercow, I have been looking into that myself. I had some BC550 q’s in stock so I used those. Wondering if the biasing needs to be changed to accommodate this. It sounds killer! Just needs a boost after to recover some volume drop.
Barry, how would I go about making the Muff’n louder? I just built one and I have both the Volume and Sustain dimed for unity volume. I’m checking all my values but I’ve not found anything yet so how would I go about boosting output volume?
@Paul – Also, I should’ve mentioned – I’ve built nearly all of Barry’s Marshall-type circuits (except the new Marsha) and you simply can’t go wrong with any of them. I lobbied for the Cranky Charles in place of the Aion circuit, but my buddy thought there was enough gain in the other two (HA) and wanted a lower gain boost/drive first in the chain (I said “but this one goes to 11.?.?”). I simply love all GPCB Marshall-type circuits, and I can’t recommend them enough!
LOL! Oh Barry, you just made me spit out drink! haha…I have an MKC im working on that your picture reminded me of….
Thanks guys! Jeff picked it up last night and it sounded great!
@Paul – I just use rattle cans; I have a sprayer but its much too large for one off projects. To get the blend, I started spraying both colors simultaneously and then hit the box with them both at the same time, so the paint started mixing before it hit the box.
Dude! I tip my hat to you! The transformation of those guts is a work of art man! Props to the 1590B cramming as well. Cheers!
I’m not sure how to edit my OP, but happy to report that replacing the blown zener with a fresh 1n4001 solved the issue. Thanks again, wilkie1, for the help in correctly diagnosing the issue!
You know what – I just realized (as I looked unsuccessfully for the 1n4001) that I used a zener diode in this pedal as I had run out of 1n4001’s. I am now thinking 18v got plugged into the pedal, which otherwise wouldn’t be an issue, except that the zener diode is probably only rated at 12v and I blew it.
Thanks again wilkie1!
Thanks Wilkie1! I will check those things. I did sometimes get a slight pulse of power that would cause the led to flash on and off, so I may check the 1n4001, as I’ve checked the path and reflowed solder. I did notice that I broke the single 9v trace so I’m wondering if I somehow damaged the footswitch pcb…
Thanks for the tips, most appreciated!
Impressive! Especially with only one working arm… :-p
I also love to use solid copper wire as well. You can easily make the wiring neat and/or artistic, and it holds everything in place super securely. Nice cramming man!
Nice! I just ordered this board and plan to pair it with a 6-way…..no, actually I’ll just show you when I’m done. 😉 I really love that you used the original Ge diode instead of some of the newer versions. So, how does this alternate power protection work exactly?
Looking forward to the fun candy wrapper!
