I don’t know of any way to test the IC’s until it’s finished.

I think I would wait and see There is a chance they have been damaged by the heat already, but de-soldering them will just increase that chance plus you risk damaging the pads on the board. The only difficult point I can see is the pads…Read more

Welcome to the exciting journey that is pedal building. I’m not one of the gurus here but I try to help where I can. As for your question about the diodes. the build doc has a picture of the board that I’m using for reference. there are only 2 diodes in the build. D1 is an LED, D2 is a 1N5817. The printing on the board sometimes has a…Read more

C10 3n3

C11 10n

R18 39K

R20 39K

Then you can use a DPDT on-off-on switch with 2 caps as  shown below to get a mid scoop, flat response or mid boost.

This is borrowed from tagboardeffects for a Hizumitas…Read more

It’s handy to have a component tester to identify component leads.  ( I use an Atlas DCA55 ) it can save time instead of searching for datasheets. Hope that helps.

The box looks awesome BTW. I have one of my paramix’s…Read more

My first check whenever a pedal doesn’t make any noise, is the input and output cables, go direct guitar to amp through both cables. That verifies the guitar and cables and amp.

Try plugging the guitar into the returns then, If you get sound, then your problem is in the front half of the circuit.

Then check voltage (DC) on the…Read more

Swapping IC’s is a very easy mod, I highly recommend trying it. The hardest part is not bending the legs prying them out of a socket. ( no I don’t have the tool )

I used all OPA-2134’s in my last Mule Kicker build, IMO…Read more

I have been around this forum for a while, long enough to know you are one of the most prolific build posters here. Your graphics and finish are second to none. I can make them work but I can’t make them pretty. I built my “Omega” petal a while ago, but there is a breadboard on my desk now with some half baked idea that just might make it…Read more

I would say the first version might work. I have the equivalent of Barry’s Tone TwEQ circuit installed in my semi-hollow guitar as a pre-amp for the piezo, although I’m using 2 jacks and a modified Paramix board to mix the signals on the floor. Note, my piezo pickup just doesn’t play well with some effects, so try it before you modify the…Read more

My Fluke DVOM gives lower measurements when testing diodes than my Atlas DCA. I am assuming that is due to different test voltages. Which is the preferred measurement when looking for a specified vf. i.e not matching diodes.

Best

-BRD

Raising the values of the input and output caps will pass more bass frequencies, but c7 and c9 may also need to be adjusted too. You may need to experiment with values to find your sweet spot, so if you decide to try to adapt the pedal I suggest using sockets to spare the board from repeated de-soldering. No worries about letting the smoke…Read more

Hope that helps

Another basic question is, are you using a known good power supply?

The troubleshooting could be getting more technical…Read more

You could de-solder the leg of R9 that connects to R22 and lift it from the delay board. ( sorry I don’t have a board to verify which leg that is ) Then connect  a wire from…Read more

Keep in mind you can let the smoke out if you reverse the v…Read more

If you are bench testing, be sure you have all the ground connections complete between the board, jacks and power supply, as per the build doc.  A second note about bench testing is that enclosures shield the board from noise as well.

For troubleshooting, I think that the fact that your pedal is noisy when it’s off is a good place to start. If the board is properly bypassed, it…Read more

I’ve been using hot glue since I saw it used in 6 Degrees FX pedals. It is non-conductive. Drip a small amount to glue the body of the transistor to the socket and it will stop it from moving. Obviously,  I would only use it after the pedal i…Read more

This is my latest build. A Rangemaster feeding a BMP to get an Animato sound and a foot switch between them so they can be used individually.

I Veroboarded a negative ground Rangemaster circuit based on a Catlinbread Naga Viper boost which adds a Range knob to change the boost frequency, and a Heat knob to dial back the distortion. I had…Read more

Just another opinion, The added clean signal does temper or smooth the gain a little and it could be part of the circuits legendary Mojo but I don’t find myself using the gain much past 9:00 unless I’m using single coils. Gain 2 really isn’t adding much in that range.

This Pi build was imagined to be paired with a Rangemaster circuit to get that Muse Bass sound. It started as a simple plan to use 2 foot switches so the Pi and RM could be used independently, but each of those circuits have several great mods and I had a few extra…Read more

I’m working up another BMP Muff’n build and I found the “Muff’n Mid Scoop Mod Version 1” in the new Roto-Tone Deluxe guide.

Will that mod work with the Mod 3 ( mid scoop control) from the Muff’n build doc? Or how are they different and what would be expected if they were combined?

Thanks in advance

They look a lot like these. I purchased these from Small Bear years ago and were sold as “point three +”. I believe I got 3 matched sets out of a lot of 10. I don’t have notes on which builds they ended up in except that the last set measured around .35 and were recently used in an MKC build that sounded sweet. I have also been looking for…Read more

Are there any issues or concerns with using a charge pump to power that circuit at 18v that would make using an 18v power supply a better option?