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	<title>GuitarPCB | brd | Activity</title>
	<link>https://guitarpcb.com/members/brd/activity/</link>
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	<description>Activity feed for brd.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 11 Sep 2026 21:17:06 -0400</lastBuildDate>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic NT Bass Combo Gift Ideas? in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/nt-bass-combo-gift-ideas/#post-40507</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2026 17:59:13 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Barry is putting together some awesome boards. The Bass OverThruster is essentially what I built to sound like the Mike Scheidt Yob pedal in a much cleaner package. Don&#8217;t dismiss this as just a bass pedal, it can do Doom guitar as well, try it with low A tuning. This one can really melt your face.</p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">2be3b10c0678c35e5a3cb013bbcf4fb5</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic NT Bass Combo Gift Ideas? in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/nt-bass-combo-gift-ideas/#post-40498</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2026 23:47:38 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have built a few special request combo pedals for a bass player. They were for Muse (Hysteria) and Y.O.B (Heavy Doom) sounds. They might not be a good fit but I can pass along the formulas if you&#8217;re interested.</p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">e6e7f12263aa9d161c81afbdeaa9c8bd</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic LFO trouble D.S.O.T.M in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/lfo-trouble-d-s-o-t-m/#post-40497</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 09 Sep 2026 22:45:42 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After following Barry&#8217;s advice you will most likely have found your problem. If not, do a visual inspection around LDR2. In your picture there looks like a  small strand of wire at the base of that component lying across a visa or pad.  A stray strand of wire can throw a wrench in the works.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" src="https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/bpfed/DSOM_Phaser-crop.jpg" /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>One other thing that I think might be off is the v&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23548"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/lfo-trouble-d-s-o-t-m/#post-40497" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">1ded2ef233f723d466ca8922d209100f</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic Popular Clipping Options in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40445</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2026 00:12:08 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jason,</p>
<p>I  recommend using some sockets. Your rig will determine what sounds good. I also added an option to switch to 3 BAT41&#8217;s for asynchronous clipping on that same pedal but never liked it in the mix.</p>
<p>I took a quick look at the rectifier bridge diodes you asked about. They have some extra leads to take 2 AC signals and make them DC. I may&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23521"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40445" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">425c480b1d561769bb9f2a4eedf4ec34</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic Popular Clipping Options in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40441</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2026 21:18:59 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Big O</p>
<p>I used a set of BAT41&#8217;s in one of Barry&#8217;s older Blues Buster boards which is very similar to the new NT 60&#8217;s Overdrive. I did an extensive diode shootout before deciding the BAT41&#8217;s sounded better with my rig that the usual 1N914&#8217;s or 1N4148&#8243;s. Thanks for mentioning those.</p>
<p>The Ge Si combo should work well, it could be very amp like, Have&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23518"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40441" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">0111c3aa68aa75adb0f3d8f56d1f4eef</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic Popular Clipping Options in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40420</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2026 21:08:49 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That article is a great read, It suggests that the 1N5817 Schottky diode is a compromise between hard clipping silicon and soft clipping germanium diodes. The curve traces show that the 1N5817 does have a medium knee and a low threshold, so it could work well as a substitute for a 1N34A.</p>
<p>Another take away that I wasn’t aware of is the stated e&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23510"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40420" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">6933c92424870c0973a1280418c19b51</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic Popular Clipping Options in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40391</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 11:08:31 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I didn’t expect to break the internet with my post, but it’s here and it’s searchable, and I just hope it might help somebody someday.</p>
<p>My short answer is, yes, I would expect there to be a difference that would be noticeable. With that said, it’s worth noting that 1N34A’s can have considerably different curve traces. You can find some graphs do&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23501"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/#post-40391" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">214d3da5a0a1c8b0e883ac17f5aaa1d0</guid>
				<title>brd started the topic Popular Clipping Options in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 22 Aug 2026 20:14:21 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi All</p>
<p>After reading Barry’s new guide: <a href="https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/How-Gain-Headroom-and-Clipping-Shape-Your-Tone.pdf" rel="nofollow ugc">How Gain, Headroom &amp; Clipping Shape Your Tone</a>, I thought it might be interesting to post a few clipping recipes used in some popular pedals for a reference and as an invite for others to share their favorites. These schematics are all used in feedback (soft) clipping stages but can also be used for signal p&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23498"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/popular-clipping-options/" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic New Guide: How Gain, Headroom &#038; Clipping Shape Your Tone in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/new-guide-how-gain-headroom-clipping-shape-your-tone/#post-40288</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2026 14:45:54 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nice work Barry, your new Tone Shaping guide is excellent; it takes an easy dive into a broad range of electronic circuit topics. I would say it’s a must read if your new to pedal building or if you want to jump into the rabbit hole of modifying pedals. There are answers to some questions that are often asked on the forum and explanations to t&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23486"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/new-guide-how-gain-headroom-clipping-shape-your-tone/#post-40288" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">88ea41a64063ed38933a9128a04f5b9b</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic Diagnosing A PCB Power Problem - Probable Short in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/diagnosing-a-pcb-power-problem-probable-short/#post-39559</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2026 01:03:10 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Glad you got it fixed!  Testing components in a circuit is generally not the best approach, but you made it work.</p>
<p>-Best</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Diagnosing A PCB Power Problem - Probable Short in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/diagnosing-a-pcb-power-problem-probable-short/#post-39551</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2026 21:58:09 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not an expert, but I would always suggest starting at the beginning. In this case it is the power supply jack, assuming the wiring is correct, you want to check continuity between the posts, however, because a short anywhere in the circuit would show continuity between the + and &#8211;  posts you&#8217;ll need to disconnect the ground wire from the&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23454"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/diagnosing-a-pcb-power-problem-probable-short/#post-39551" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Slice in PCB in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/slice-in-pcb/page/2/#post-39472</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2026 01:51:31 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Let&#8217;s try some voltage measurements while you work on replacing the ribbon cable for the reverb switch. You don&#8217;t need the IC&#8217;s installed yet. With power supplied to the jack.  Meter set to DC voltage, ground lead on a known good ground, preferably on a GND pad or jack.</p>
<p>First check is at the DC pad. expect a little over 9v. We don&#8217;t want to see&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23440"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/slice-in-pcb/page/2/#post-39472" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Slice in PCB in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/slice-in-pcb/#post-39462</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2026 15:38:51 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t give up on it. You put a lot of work into that build. When the power jack wiring is confirmed, be sure you have voltage through D5 then try each section of the build with a guitar. If one or more of the effects still isn&#8217;t working report back. If your LED&#8217;s work it&#8217;s a good sign.</p>
<p>An audio probe is still highly recommended.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m not Barry,&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23435"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/slice-in-pcb/#post-39462" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Slice in PCB in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/slice-in-pcb/#post-39460</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2026 13:19:45 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry, I couldn&#8217;t edit my previous post. I want to add that, if the power jack wiring was not the problem, an audio probe might be the best next step.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Slice in PCB in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/slice-in-pcb/#post-39454</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 16 Jul 2026 21:40:59 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wire color doesn&#8217;t matter, but I noticed it looks like you have a white wire going to the ground of one jack and a black wire going to the ground of the other.  Can&#8217;t see where they go under the board.  Maybe a shot of the other side of the board might help too.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic External trimpot for 60’s fuzz in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/external-trimpot-for-60s-fuzz/#post-39377</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2026 17:15:55 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I suggest a B pot</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Best Ever OD in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39273</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2026 09:27:06 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m glad you mentioned the switch, you&#8217;ll want to use an on-off-on switch, that will give you a third option of no clipping in the middle position.</p>
<p>You will need an enclosure for the PD to keep it insulated. You don&#8217;t want it shorting to the enclosure (or anything). no worries about heat.</p>
<p>The blue and purple wire would be interchangeable for&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23361"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39273" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Best Ever OD in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39267</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 13 Jun 2026 22:57:31 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That video has been popping up in my feed for a few days, I&#8217;ve been ignoring it because I&#8217;ve tried Watlon&#8217;s $5 Dumble and it sounded like *ss. I watched through it thinking it was some April fools day joke, but a quick search showed it is actually possible. As fate would have it my wife is a hobby gemologist and she had a chunk of pyrite. So I ran&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23357"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39267" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Best Ever OD in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39260</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jun 2026 12:57:41 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you can tell us what you are trying to achieve it would be easier to give you some guidance.</p>
<p>As I mentioned, the forward voltage is what effects the signal. An average red LED has a forward voltage around 1.6 to 2.0 volts so any signal above the 1.6 to 2.0 volts will be clipped. The 1N4148 diodes called for D3-D6 have a Vf around 1V. They will&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23351"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39260" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Best Ever OD in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39248</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2026 00:26:24 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was about to modify my post to add some clarification, when I realized I contradicted Barry. I don&#8217;t like the terms hard and soft clipping, they are ambiguous. Germanium diodes give what some people call soft clipping too. Using a diode with a low Vf gives more or harder clipping than a diode with a higher Vf. D3 &#8211; D6 add the most clipping in&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23344"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39248" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Best Ever OD in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39246</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 23:22:25 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>D7 and D8 are connected from the signal path to ground (or VB) they provide what is referred to as hard clipping. the other 2 sets of clipping diodes (D1, D2) and (D3,D4,D5,D6)  are contained in the feedback loop of 2 IC&#8217;s. They create  what is commonly referred to as soft clipping.</p>
<p>D3, D4, D5, D6 are not in series they are two sets of 2 diodes i&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23342"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/best-ever-od/#post-39246" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Finally finished .... and it actually works!! in the forum Show Off Your Build</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/finally-finished-and-it-actually-works/#post-39099</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 12 May 2026 11:19:19 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very well done. It looks better than my last build.  After the space modulator you&#8217;ll be ready to start building tube amps.  I just recently discovered the magic of Barry&#8217;s Emerald Ring into a fuzz face, very funky. My next advice is to make an audio probe  <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9OsJ0riQhm1QFWPfNQ5q5guikuFKDRN/view" rel="nofollow ugc">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9OsJ0riQhm1QFWPfNQ5q5guikuFKDRN/view</a>. Hopefully you wi&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23276"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/finally-finished-and-it-actually-works/#post-39099" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic NostalgiTone NT Phaser V1 in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/nostalgitone-nt-phaser-v1/#post-38969</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2026 01:59:08 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>tip #4 use sockets for all IC&#8217;s and transistors.</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know of any way to test the IC&#8217;s until it&#8217;s finished.</p>
<p>I think I would wait and see There is a chance they have been damaged by the heat already, but de-soldering them will just increase that chance plus you risk damaging the pads on the board. The only difficult point I can see is the pads&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23248"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/nostalgitone-nt-phaser-v1/#post-38969" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic NostalgiTone NT Phaser V1 in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/nostalgitone-nt-phaser-v1/#post-38960</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2026 10:42:01 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Vokinn72</p>
<p>Welcome to the exciting journey that is pedal building. I&#8217;m not one of the gurus here but I try to help where I can. As for your question about the diodes. the build doc has a picture of the board that I&#8217;m using for reference. there are only 2 diodes in the build. D1 is an LED, D2 is a 1N5817. The printing on the board sometimes has a&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23241"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/nostalgitone-nt-phaser-v1/#post-38960" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Muff&#039;n high- and low-pass switches. in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/muffn-high-and-low-pass-switches/#post-38955</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 25 Apr 2026 23:37:27 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you are looking to modify the mid scoop, my suggestion for the least extra components is to use the following values in the tone stack</p>
<p>C10 3n3</p>
<p>C11 10n</p>
<p>R18 39K</p>
<p>R20 39K</p>
<p>Then you can use a DPDT on-off-on switch with 2 caps as  shown below to get a mid scoop, flat response or mid boost.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" src="https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/bpfed/Muff-Mids-Sw.png" /></p>
<p>This is borrowed from tagboardeffects for a Hizumitas&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23237"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/muffn-high-and-low-pass-switches/#post-38955" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Beano Bundle Q1 on Rangemaster in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/beano-bundle-q1-on-rangemaster/#post-38320</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 11 Feb 2026 11:04:49 -0500</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here is a pinout for a metal can type 2N2222. The leg closest to the tag should go to the E pad on the board if using this type.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s handy to have a component tester to identify component leads.  ( I use an Atlas DCA55 ) it can save time instead of searching for datasheets. Hope that helps.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" src="https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/bpfed/2n2222-metal-can-transistor-pinout-2-2840146818.gif" /></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Desperately need help with Tayda kit in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/desperately-need-help-with-tayda-kit/#post-38207</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2026 21:22:56 -0500</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Put the wires from the 4 pin connector where ever they were when you posted that the boost switch made the volume, tone and overdrive work. That is now your on/off switch.  If you have the other switch properly orientated then you should be able to swap the yellow and black wire on the stomp switch that the 3 pin connector goes to and all should&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23074"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/desperately-need-help-with-tayda-kit/#post-38207" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Desperately need help with Tayda kit in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/desperately-need-help-with-tayda-kit/#post-38198</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2026 17:35:20 -0500</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I might be able to simplify if further. your boost is switched on and off by making a connection between either the yellow and red  or yellow and black wires from the 3 pin connector. you can try to manually connect them to verify the boost is switching on and off and working as expected. If that&#8217;s good, then wire the stomp switch accordingly.&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-23067"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/desperately-need-help-with-tayda-kit/#post-38198" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Paramix: zero sound in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-zero-sound/#post-37756</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2025 16:40:04 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry I didn&#8217;t think of it earlier, you could also try connecting the wet and dry sends to the amp. If you get sound, the problem is in the last half of the circuit then. Also be sure the Volume pots are  fully clockwise when using the normal output jack, those are more like blend controls.</p>
<p>The box looks awesome BTW. I have one of my paramix&#8217;s&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-22824"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-zero-sound/#post-37756" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Paramix: zero sound in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-zero-sound/#post-37750</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2025 09:52:35 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Johnnysmoke,</p>
<p>My first check whenever a pedal doesn&#8217;t make any noise, is the input and output cables, go direct guitar to amp through both cables. That verifies the guitar and cables and amp.</p>
<p>Try plugging the guitar into the returns then, If you get sound, then your problem is in the front half of the circuit.</p>
<p>Then check voltage (DC) on the&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-22818"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-zero-sound/#post-37750" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic My Z-Drive Mini (and some extra build info) in the forum Show Off Your Build</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/my-z-drive-mini-and-some-extra-build-info/#post-37713</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 28 Oct 2025 19:40:25 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I ran out to my shop and grabbed my box of IC&#8217;s and my notes to see if I had any LM-1458&#8217;s, but sadly I have none in stock here.</p>
<p>Swapping IC&#8217;s is a very easy mod, I highly recommend trying it. The hardest part is not bending the legs prying them out of a socket. ( no I don&#8217;t have the tool )</p>
<p>I used all OPA-2134&#8217;s in my last Mule Kicker build, IMO&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-22796"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/my-z-drive-mini-and-some-extra-build-info/#post-37713" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Debugging in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/debugging/#post-37652</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2025 02:26:32 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The traces are the lines in the schematic connecting the components, they can be signal or power.  They run traces on both sides because they can&#8217;t cross. They are not drawn like the schematic because that would waste space on the board. Hope that helps.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Pop when switch is pushed in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/pop-when-switch-is-pushed/#post-37651</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 23 Oct 2025 02:12:29 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sounds like what happens when you connect the power supply to an active pedal. You will get a pop and a delay before signal is passed. Check voltage on the board with the switch in bypass.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic CLR on Tube Screaming Ultra in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/clr-on-tube-screaming-ultra/#post-37639</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 20 Oct 2025 19:17:27 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Go bright and crank up the fog machine, you&#8217;ll get a stage light show off of your pedal board. Best reason to use the bi-color led&#8217;s</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic GuitarPCB Celebrates 15 Years in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/guitarpcb-celebrates-15-years/#post-35999</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 16 Apr 2025 19:49:40 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well done Barry, this forum sets GuitarPCB above the rest. Thank you for making it possible.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Small issue with my SWAH in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/hi-small-issue-with-my-swah/#post-35861</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 04 Apr 2025 11:27:31 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There is a small pass through next to R23, that is suspiciously close to pin 1 of IC2. Check your work there to see if you may have bridged that by accident.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Done With Pedal Building in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/done-with-pedal-building/#post-35829</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 01 Apr 2025 19:53:43 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the tip, I wish I had that information a few years ago. However, talent and patience are the missing ingredients here. Below is a photo of my first and last pedals, clearly showing no improvement in my art or my ADHD.<br />
&lt;p style=&#8221;text-align: center;&#8221;&gt;<img loading="lazy" src="https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/bpfed/alpha_omega-3.jpg" />&lt;/p&gt;<br />
&lt;p style=&#8221;text-align: center;&#8221;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Done With Pedal Building in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/done-with-pedal-building/#post-35805</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 30 Mar 2025 23:46:57 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Big O</p>
<p>I have been around this forum for a while, long enough to know you are one of the most prolific build posters here. Your graphics and finish are second to none. I can make them work but I can&#8217;t make them pretty. I built my &#8220;Omega&#8221; petal a while ago, but there is a breadboard on my desk now with some half baked idea that just might make it&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-21715"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/done-with-pedal-building/#post-35805" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Sonic Tonic EQ/Enhancer with Piezo in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/sonic-tonic-eq-enhancer-with-piezo/#post-35723</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 20 Mar 2025 10:19:52 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ralf,</p>
<p>I would say the first version might work. I have the equivalent of Barry&#8217;s Tone TwEQ circuit installed in my semi-hollow guitar as a pre-amp for the piezo, although I&#8217;m using 2 jacks and a modified Paramix board to mix the signals on the floor. Note, my piezo pickup just doesn&#8217;t play well with some effects, so try it before you modify the&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-21663"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/sonic-tonic-eq-enhancer-with-piezo/#post-35723" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd started the topic DVOM vs. DCA for forward voltage (answered) in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/dvom-vs-dca-for-forward-voltage-measurements/</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 13 Jul 2024 15:47:28 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi All,</p>
<p>My Fluke DVOM gives lower measurements when testing diodes than my Atlas DCA. I am assuming that is due to different test voltages. Which is the preferred measurement when looking for a specified vf. i.e not matching diodes.</p>
<p>Best</p>
<p>-BRD</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Suggestions for Ratt Deluxe Bass-friendly mod in the forum General DIY Pedal Discussion</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/help-for-ratt-deluxe-bass-friendly-mod/#post-31125</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 10 Feb 2024 19:05:10 -0500</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Elio,</p>
<p>Raising the values of the input and output caps will pass more bass frequencies, but c7 and c9 may also need to be adjusted too. You may need to experiment with values to find your sweet spot, so if you decide to try to adapt the pedal I suggest using sockets to spare the board from repeated de-soldering. No worries about letting the smoke&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-19590"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/help-for-ratt-deluxe-bass-friendly-mod/#post-31125" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Paramix Won’t Power Up in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-wont-power-up/#post-28931</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2023 00:44:34 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In regards to pin identification, short answers is yes, I think you have the pins numbered correctly in the picture. However flipping the board over requires too much extra thought for me, I use the legs of the IC for checking voltages. From the top of the board, number 1 is the pin to the left of the little indent on then count down then over and&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-18452"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-wont-power-up/#post-28931" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Paramix Won’t Power Up in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/paramix-wont-power-up/#post-28845</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jun 2023 00:19:52 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If your definition of DOA is that the LED doesn&#8217;t light up. The S4/S5/S6 pads are connections that should go to the foot switch to activate the LED. Without a switch or jumper there the LED will not illuminate. If you want the LED to be on whenever the board is connected to power, a jumper between S4 and S5 should do the trick.</p>
<p>Hope that helps</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic Vibe no phase (solved) in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/vibe-volume-change-but-no-phase/#post-28764</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 27 May 2023 18:08:27 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Be sure you made both ground connections and check your trimmer adjustment? Not really a thought just guesses.</p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic The Vibe v4 pain in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/the-vibe-v4-pain/#post-28330</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 16 Apr 2023 13:17:22 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Okay it&#8217;s a little early yet but I didn&#8217;t see any notes in the new build doc regarding the trimmer and adjustment. For that you should start around mid-sweep on the trimmer and make very small adjustments to find that spot.</p>
<p>Another basic question is, are you using a known good power supply?</p>
<p>The troubleshooting could be getting more technical&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-18076"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/the-vibe-v4-pain/#post-28330" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic The Vibe v4 pain in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/the-vibe-v4-pain/#post-28292</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 13 Apr 2023 14:00:45 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It is nice to have an audio probe to be able to trace the signal path. I think it&#8217;s one of the best tools to isolate issues. By being able to verify a good audio signal at the input to the board you have a quick way to know which direction to go with testing (usually). It can also help locate problems on the board by following the audio path on&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-18062"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/the-vibe-v4-pain/#post-28292" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic D&#039;lay Tap Tempo - seperate enclouser in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/dlay-tap-tempo-seperate-enclouser/#post-28218</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 07 Apr 2023 13:05:33 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you build the tap tempo board with a voltage regulator, so you don&#8217;t have to tap VB from the delay board, ( see build notes ) I think it can work with just a patch cable.</p>
<p>You could de-solder the leg of R9 that connects to R22 and lift it from the delay board. ( sorry I don&#8217;t have a board to verify which leg that is ) Then connect  a wire from&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-18010"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/dlay-tap-tempo-seperate-enclouser/#post-28218" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic 1st Combo build - Buff n&#039; Blend not sending in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/1st-combo-build-buff-n-blend-not-sending/#post-28189</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 05 Apr 2023 01:32:50 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not a guru here,  but I think the type of capacitor you used for C1 is a tantalum cap and it is polarized. If it is mounted reversed in an audio path, it will block your signal.  If you don&#8217;t have a non-polarized cap handy to replace it, just flip that one around and it should work.</p>
<p>Keep in mind you can let the smoke out if you reverse the v&hellip;<span class="activity-read-more" id="activity-read-more-17990"><a href="https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/1st-combo-build-buff-n-blend-not-sending/#post-28189" rel="nofollow ugc">Read more</a></span></p>
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				<title>brd replied to the topic 1st Combo build - Buff n&#039; Blend not sending in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/1st-combo-build-buff-n-blend-not-sending/#post-28184</link>
				<pubDate>Tue, 04 Apr 2023 17:52:22 -0400</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hard to see a lot of details. Looks like you used a a tantalum cap for C1 on the buff n blend board. If you did, be sure the polarity is correct. Positive should go toward input or R1.</p>
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				<guid isPermaLink="false">6da7afd89ab76e3134f67d3ec237c4e8</guid>
				<title>brd replied to the topic Ratt Deluxe Strange Sound (Solved) in the forum GuitarPCB Build Support</title>
				<link>https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/ratt-deluxe-strange-sound/#post-27787</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2023 19:53:37 -0500</pubDate>

									<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It would seem that you would have to do the same thing twice to get the same result between two builds. Try something different. Consider using some sockets and populating C3. Start with a 22p and work up. If the extra cap doesn&#8217;t fix anything just take it out, no harm no foul.</p>
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