January 25, 2021 at 9:27 pm #16822
I’m pretty new to this so I am sorry if this is obvious or has been answered a million time. I just finished building a Mini Me and am not getting any sound whatsoever in active mode. I am getting sound in bypass and the led is lighting up and switching between red and green just fine. Doews any one see anything obvious from this picture that I have done wrong?January 26, 2021 at 5:08 pm #16830BillyModerator
All your values look correct and everything appears to be orientated the correct way
I can’t clearly see how your DC jack is wired but with your LED lighting up I’d think that’s ok
Your trimmer and R20 can’t be seen clearly
Trimmer should be code 104 yours looks like it’s missing the top white plastic part?
The only other thing we can’t see is your jumpers under the MN3007 if that’s all correct it sounds like you may have a dry or poor solder joint, post a picture of the solder side of the pcb, are the back of your pots insulated from shorting on anything on the solder side of the pcb
Where did you get your MN3007January 26, 2021 at 5:32 pm #16831CybercowModerator
ANY parts substitutions? Might the transistors be too loose in their respective sockets?
Are the BBD selection jumpers in the vertical orientation? (This photo is for an MN3007 build.)
And ask Billy asked, can we see some good clear shots of the solder side?January 26, 2021 at 6:35 pm #16832
thanks for the feedback, I have a little update.
I somehow had misread some instructions so I did not have the jumpers under the 3007 (also, all parts are from this website, I ordered this as a complete kit) I now have jumpers going and am getting a signal in active mode.
It seems I am still having a problem with my transistors. I cannot for the life of me get them to engage properly with the sockets. I’m currently only getting about 50% signal in active mode but have been able to get a full signal by wiggling the transistors around until they find the right spot, but they dont want to stay there. I cut the leads down in frustration because I though it might make it easier to get them to go but it did not help/was possibly a bad idea. I feel at this point like I may have damaged one by trying to force it in. I’m going to order some more and try again I suppose, I’m brand new to this so I don’t have spare parts on hand.
Thanks for all the advice, it may be a while before I am able to see if that fixed the problem, but if it didn’t, you’ll be hearing from me again!January 26, 2021 at 10:20 pm #16835BillyModerator
Check the solder joints on your transistor sockets if they’re good you can place the transistors in the sockets a little wiggle sometimes helps to secure them what you can then do once they’re in nice and tight is solder 1 of the transistor pins into the socket to keep them in place
If you have spare sockets try fitting a transistor into them till you feel them locking in this will also space the pins out, as I say I find wiggling them a little helps to get them in securely
Use a small croc/alligator clip as a heatsink to avoid heat damage like thisJanuary 27, 2021 at 12:55 pm #16842CybercowModerator
In many cases with socketed transistors, I would use needle-nosed pliers to “wrinkle” the ends of the legs so they will fit more snuggly into the sockets. Then once I know the build is right, (and touching the transistors would not create intermittents), I would go back solder-tac just one of the legs into the socket to keep it in place.January 27, 2021 at 11:24 pm #16847BarryKeymaster
I have to ask about the Trim Pot again as well since it is critical to finding the “minimal sweet spot” that will make the circuit produce chorus and it looks like it could be damaged.January 28, 2021 at 4:38 pm #16853
You are correct, the face of the trim pot just kinda popped off as I was adjusting it. I get that it is crucial to finding the sweet spot, but would that have anything to do with the volume reduction? Because it seems to me like that is the problem I’m having currently is with not being able to get the transistors to stay in their sockets. I’m sure I will need to deal with the trim pot as well.January 29, 2021 at 2:35 pm #16863brdParticipant
Great suggestion by Cybercow, some transistors have flimsy legs that will not fit tightly in a socket.
I’ve been using hot glue since I saw it used in 6 Degrees FX pedals. It is non-conductive. Drip a small amount to glue the body of the transistor to the socket and it will stop it from moving. Obviously, I would only use it after the pedal is finished and tested, and I use “low temp” glue. I like the small “kiddie” guns that use the smaller glue sticks because they will get into tight places. I also use it for strain relief. A small drop on my board I/O wires helps keep them from breaking off at the board from too much movement during bench testing and it is a lot quicker to use as an insulator for wire to component connections rather than shrink tubing. One more advantage , you can peel it off to service or upgrade components. I use a quick spray with a dust-off product to freeze it to help with removal. Downside, it might not look pretty.January 29, 2021 at 7:40 pm #16871BarryKeymaster
If the trimmer is locked in a bad spot it could cause bad static type noises. This may be confused for other issues. It is hard for me to say but you can certainly find some bad sounds by a trimmer that is set wrong. Also if set in a bad spot I could also see it affecting the volume. I would fix the trimmer issue since it has to be done regardless.January 30, 2021 at 11:48 am #16882Bruce RModerator
I am shipping you another trimmer potentiometer, and an extra, just in case. Keep in mind that these should turn relatively easily. If you can’t turn it one way, try the other way and find the range of the dial.
Shipping today via First Class mail.
Pedal Parts and Kits
https://pedalpartsandkits.comFebruary 3, 2021 at 3:39 pm #16938
Bruce, thank you so much!
Thanks to everyone for all the advice, I was out of town for a few days so sorry for the late responses. I’ll update everyone once the new trim pot shows up.
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