@billy
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Yeah Pete did a whole lot of good stuff it’s just sad I never got to meet him I’d imagine it woulda been a laugh a minute
I’m sure he’s up there trying to mod God right now with a coupla cheeky switches
It says I was up at 4am to go to work for a 10 hour shift mate……brutal 3rd one in a row
It’s 7.25am here…..but I’ve no idea what day it is!
At a quick glance your solder joints on the switch look ball like reflow the joints for around 4 seconds until the solder flows nicely
If you’re not getting bypass or effects signal that points to a fault more than likely on the 3PDT switch so I’d start with reflowing your switch joints and in and out jack solder joints that also look dry
Be careful with the switch it’s very easy to damage with too much heat
Its very difficult to trace your wiring but from what I can see your in and outs from the pcb to 3PDT are the wrong way round ignore that for now reflow the joints advised and see if you get bypassed signal
Those are film caps Jimmy
Get the polyester box type for nf values 5mm lead pitch anything up to 100v will fit
Check the beginners guide to components on the guides page for information
It doesn’t really matter which comes first it’s really your preference
Some will say TS driving BB is best, others the exact opposite
I’d advise using an easy order switching board then you can change which comes first giving you added options
You’ll find the wiring options on the guides page
I’d bias the circuit first via TR1 setting Q1 C voltage to between 6.8 and 7.8v and use a B10K for TR2
Germanium transistors will vary so I personally bias by ear to where I like it
Just pop them in Kristopher it’s not going to damage anything in a 9v circuit may not sound great though FETs have to be biased correctly but you never know
The 2N5461 is a p type so that won’t work
Nice to see you back in these parts Eddie
Is it lockdown motivated haha
I’ve built God knows how many pedals during lockdown after not doing too much for a while with life problems getting in the way
Looks like SW1 brings the feedback resistor in and out of circuit R16
I’ve heard a lot of people saying the phase 45 is nice, much more subtle so I’d consider that mod too
A matched set of either will work the only real difference is pinout one’s GSD (5457) the other DSG (5952) there are obviously differences but none that will make any major difference in a 9v circuit
They’re being used as voltage controlled variable resistors for shifting the notches automatically so it will work if they’re matched
Ah miss the old legendary Tonmann lessons
A very knowledgeable guy whom I learned so much from, I still reference his posts on the olde site, I hope he’s all good and doing well
Kevin as Wilkie says the beginners guide to components covers this on the guides page
Well worth a read as it’s written with the beginner in mind
You can use an A1M for gain which will give you a more gradual increase some layouts have an A1M as the gain pot obviously remove your wires at the pot and not the pcb end if you decide to try it
I’d play around with the tone pots I’ve read if you scoop the mids it makes a difference and of course your amp settings will make a difference also
There’s some info here with regard to the tone stack
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97558.0
Great glad to hear it’s working
FETs even from the same batch can sometimes vary wildly the drain voltages are more or less a guidline where the majority would bias up fine I always bias transistors by ear
FETs being fickle beasts I usually get within the specified range then bias by ear till I get something I like
Anyway troubleshooting’s always good for learning you’ll be less frustrated next time……maybe!
