@billy
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That’s to ground the input in bypass mode Ron with 1 attached to 6 which in turn would connect to 5 ground
It helps to stop any popping noise when you switch via the 3PDT between effects and bypass mode
Things like capacitors rapidly discharging when switched can cause a pop
Not absolutely necessary I personally only do it if I experience popping which I think has happened once in my 9 years of building some people consider it good practice
I’ll update that in the guide with an explanation thanks
Welcome back to the addiction Cap
Whilst I’m not an authority on stacking pedals I was googling a list of the best sustain pedals yesterday and through that came across articles on stacking pedals that might be interesting for you
https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/5-tips-stacking-distortion-pedals/
With regard to what comes first in a combo there’s always the two easy order switching pcbs giving you the best of both with either a 3PDT toggle or 4PDT footswitch to easily change so that either can come first or second
Read the full Monty?
I think Ray will correct me on both scores try increasing the values of those resistors
The rule of thumb for capacitors is at least twice the circuit voltage most gpcb circuits are 9v
Voltage rating is also an indication of physical size especially for electrolytic and greenie type metal film caps so for those you’re better not to go larger than 63v and 100v respectively anything over that can run big in size and too big for pcb work
With ceramic and box type film caps it’s not as critical 100v is usually the same as 50v
Another important consideration for box film, metal film etc is lead spacing you want 5mm some wima caps for example have 7mm and over lead spacing
Voltage ratings are generally standardized (16, 25, 35, 50, 63, 100) so you go with the nearest you can get
If you like to run your pedals at higher voltages just make sure you have suitably rated capacitors
Most suppliers should give you that information or it’ll be in the datasheet any circuits that require specific voltage ratings will usually tell you in the build docs
The beginners guide to effects pedal components on the guides page covers information on capacitors
Wire your in and out jack tips to the pads with a small T on the buffer pcb and your jack grounds to the pads next to them
Wire your mini me in and out T pads to the I and O pads on the buffer pcb
You can either wire your LED and LED current limiting resistor (CLR) to the mini me board CLR is R34 or the buffer board CLR is R4
Power +9v and ground your mini me from the DC jack then use the extra +9v and ground pads to jumper across to the buffer pcb +9v and ground pads
It’ll be fine for Bass without any mods Simon
Here’s all the bass ready pcb’s Barry does for future reference
R17 is the LED current limiting resistor Tom
If you’re using a 3PDT pcb you wouldn’t need to put that on the main pcb
You can either have the LED and it’s CLR on the main board or the 3PDT board
So if your LED is going on the 3PDT pcb you’d also put your CLR on that and leave R17 and the LED off the main board it’s just your preference you don’t need both
3K3 is a suggested value, fairly bright if you don’t like your LED bright just increase the resistor value I like mine dull so go with up to 10K
Most folks go with from a 1K8 very bright up to a 4K7
Excellent glad you’ve got it going
That was interesting to say the least a few wee problems sorted and then the wrong build doc linked to throw something else into the ring!
Troubleshooting can be very frustrating but hopefully it will stand you in good stead in any future debugs, rectifying a fault then retaking voltages is always good for highlighting problems, in this case it definitely led us to the final fault which stood out like a sore thumb with your final voltage readings
Well done to you for your perseverance I’m so happy the MN3007 wasn’t zapped I was going to say it should be ok it can take up to -15v but I wasn’t gonna tempt fate!
Jumpers go like this as illustrated in the correct build doc just ignore my previous incorrect jumper placement info and use this image as you can see the MN3007 jumpers are vertical not horizontal as previously stated
I’ve edited out previous posts to avoid any confusion
With the other faults rectified hopefully when you put your jumpers in it’ll spring to life
Where did you get your MN3007 from
All other ICs are in the ballpark except IC2
Double check your jumpers on IC2 for the 3007
*edit orient BBD jumpers as shown in the build doc images below
What to do albeit a pain is once again post all voltages
Also check your power in on the +9v and ground pads then +9v points especially into lug 3 of TR1 if you’re not sure which is 3 just check you get 9v to one of the outer pins or continuity check those pins to ground you want the one not connected to ground
As Cybercow said TR1 has a very small sweet spot so turn it a millimetre at a time, starting with it just before half way
Do all your tests with depth maxed rate around half way
Check you get a pulsed voltage at pin 7 of IC4 the LFO
Continuity check between IC3 pin 10 and IC2 pin 6 and IC3 pin 11 and IC2 pin 2 this is the clock connections from IC3 to IC2
If you get no chorus by adjusting TR1 the problem could lie in the parts that affect the wet signal the basis of it being IC4 the LFO which modulates the signal, intensity via depth and speed via rate that in turn drives IC3 which produces the dual clock signal to IC2 which delays the signal before it’s mixed with your dry signal, so we’re checking the wet signal components, as it appears the dry signal via IC1 is ok
With the changes checking voltages again may point us in the right direction with IC4 initially being in the wrong way im wondering if it has damaged IC3
CMOS chips are easily susceptible to damage although I’ve never had one go bad but apparently they’re more prone to damage by static etc than other chips
Anyway once we see the voltages it may reveal something
Your solder joint to ground on the bottom of the main pcb looks like it hasn’t made a good connection to the solder pad reflow that so you get a nice joint fusing the wire and pad together
Did you solder the MN3007 jumpers in place on the underside of the board I’ve assumed you have but thought I’d ask just in case you’d overlooked them
If none of the components are fried we’ll defo get there do you have any spare ICs etc
I think you may now have a grounding fault could you post another pic of the board as it is now so that we can clearly see your wiring
I’m not sure what you mean when you say
I grounded the white hole to the top left G hole on the 3PDT
That looks to be halfway
Recheck all of your voltages
IC1 particularly
I’m assuming you’ve used this to check voltages
Hopefully your voltages will be closer with the changes you’ve made its just a case of trying to make sure the ICs etc are ok
IC1 out of socket looks much closer you check your VB pins with no IC in the socket to check you’re getting VB and ground where expected on the schematic e.g. IC1 pins 3 and 5 if you look at the bottom right power section you’ll see pins 4 ground and 8 power if you get high readings for the IC pins it either indicates the IC is faulty or there’s a cold solder joint on the socket or short somewhere using the schematic you can see VB points to check where you should get 9v and so on
Yes that’s correct either a jumper or diode
I’m assuming you haven’t adjusted TR1 set that to the centre position, I’d put the jumper or diode in D4 then recheck voltages
I haven’t built the 2020 version but as I say looking at the old build doc pins 5 and 4 on IC2 are connected in the schematic
Have a look at the build notes again there are notes in the doc regarding G2, TR1 etc
You will now at least have to unscrew the 3PDT, jacks and pots and try tilting the pcb outwards to access the D4 pads you would need to desolder the wires from the DC jack if you’re going to completely remove it from the enclosure
