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Glad to hear you’ve resolved the issue(s). On the brighter side, two of the Mini-Me’s can be stuffed into one box and you can create a “Dual/Stereo Chorus” pedal with Wilkie1’s “Depth Mods” and sync’d or asynchronous LFOs. I did one a couple months ago and it turned out to be a quite lush, deep sweeping closures effect. The following images are the finished product and the marked up schematic to point out the connection points for jamming two f them together.
First the marked-up schematic.
Here’s the finished pedal . . . .
And the obligatory gutshot . . . .
And the sync/async LFO mod . . . .
So at the end of all that it was 2 counterfeit chips, wow!
I am glad I could assist for my part.
I 2nd Cybercow’s idea above.
Two counterfeit chips and 4 pages of thread….Wow, indeed.
I already put two of the Mini-Mes in combo builds which leaves two more. Cybercow, do you by chance have any clips of your dual chorus in action?
OK, I’m resurrecting this thread with a question…
How does one actually find out if a chip they are using is counterfeit/inoperational.
I’ve built 2 mini-mes now, and both had the same problem as the OP, bypass sound is exactly the same as “effect” sound. I just finished the second build a half hour ago. I’ve used 3207s purchased from Barry both times. I’ve been using LM358 and CD4047 chips from Tayda. The 4558s I’m using a got from Amazon. Yes, all ground points are connected properly.
I don’t have the attention span or know-how to follow all of the measuring suggestions mentioned in previous responses. If it’s easier to just determine if my chips are not functional, I’d like to start there. I’ve switched them out with others (of the same) numerous times, and still no resulting effect when active.
Anyway, thanks in advance….just want to know…how to I tell if they are fakes/not functional.
Todd – The only way I know to test BBDs is with an “in circuit” test unit. Dimitris Diamantidis Smith has a BBD Test PCB at DSMCZ.com – the only dedicated BBD test board I’ve ever seen . . . .
I got one last year and it works well.
Another point to check on your Mini-Me is to ensure that there is +4.5v (VB) at the junction of R32 & R33 or at pin #5 of IC1. I had the same symptoms (mentioned in this original post) with all known working chips, but my VB (+4.5v) supply was dead. In my case, the 10µF C15 cap was bad.
Also, I suggest you start a fresh thread as this one is marked as “SOLVED” and may easily be overlooked by other members who might contribute.
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