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Today is my first day using DIYLC. I’m working through a breadboard design of the EH Screaming Bird / Screaming Tree layout by Dcountry13. I wanted to know how to make my resistors look like resistors. I tried Color Code: 5 Band and 4 Band, and Shape: Tubular Beveled, but they just remain straight (red) lines. Also if you see anything wrong with this layout please let me know. Thanks!
I don’t know what graphics program you are using, so I can’t help you with the resistor appearance.
I will let you know with a couple of component changes and additions you will have a Hornby Skewes treble booster. That was the first breadboard project I ever attempted and now I do quite a bit of breadboarding trying to play around with different circuits/schematics. It has been really helpful in building veroboard and perfboard projects that are not available in pcb form.
Thanks. I’m using DIY Layout Creator. I figured out what was happening with the resistors not appearing correctly. It was because I created them as .5W and then I went into “Edit Selection” and changed the power rating to .25W. Today I deleted those and made new ones at .25W. I also cleaned up a couple of things. I ordered the parts yesterday and I’m looking forward to putting it together.
Thanks for the info about the Hornby Skewes treble booster. I see that schematics are readily available online. No input or output caps. Kinda scary.
Here’s the updated version of my project.
Actually there is a correct schematic for the Si transistor version in the GBOF build document. It has both input and output caps.
Actually that’s not the one I’m building. I see Hornby Skewes Treble Boost in the TOC (last item). There’s also a “rumored Blackmore Mod” (output gain pot added). I’ll look into making the modded version.
For the output mod, I used a 500K or 1M pot, which worked better for me. The Pot after the output cap will work as a High Pass filter, so the larger the pot value, the lower the 3db cutoff frequency is. For a 100K pot that frequency is about 1590Hz, a 500K pot the cutoff is at 318Hz and for a 1M pot the cutoff is at 159Hz. So with a 100K pot you start losing low frequency content sooner on the pot rotation compared to the larger pot values. Of course this is a “treble” booster and and you don’t care about losing the low frequency content that much. But really a treble booster is really more like a mid and treble booster except for the Ehx screaming bird/tree which has a super treble content to the extent that it is unusable for me.
Thanks. This is all good to know. I already have the parts for the EH version so I’m going to do that first, but I will probably try your version just for comparison and to keep learning.
Can I put 9VDC directly to my board or do I need a resistor? I’m a little bit confused by this diagram because it doesn’t say the value of the CLR and it doesn’t say what the component in the top center is. I also want to add an LED to show if the pedal is on or off, and I assume that the black jumper across the bottom of the 3PDT switch is a true bypass, which I also want. It looks like in bypass mode the input to the board gets grounded, correct? Thanks for any info about that.
I guess the top center thing is a DC input jack. I was just looking at the diagram on the stompwizard website. They also specify a 1K 1/8W resistor. I see that with some of these 3PDT boards you can put the resistor on the board.
Thanks for the diagram. That’s very helpful. I was posting my last reply when I got the email about yours.
My go to is 3.3K 1/4 watt for a CLR. I find 1.8K (especially) with blue, is way too bright. BTW grounding the input while in bypass isn’t necessary always. It can help with extraneous noises in some cases.
Here is my wiring diagram for the HS Treble Booster with Output Pot. Although the 22n Input Cap is the standard, I usually use a switchable Input Cap (not shown here) for more flexibility. Usually 22n (default), 33n (slightly more mids) and 47n (even more mids).
That’s great. Thank you! I definitely need to learn what happens when you switch capacitor and resistor values. That’s good info. I ordered the parts for the switch yesterday. I didn’t get a switch PCB this time because it would take a couple of weeks to arrive, but I can see that they’re handy for making soldering easier. My switch parts will arrive on Monday and then I’ll start building my first pedal.
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