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My first and now second builds have been BYOC kits. The Parametric EQ went so well I ordered the Green Pony. Assembling the Green Pony PCB was no more difficult than the ParaEQ, so all is good there.
However, I’m trying to add a Tone TwEQ and a 3PDT breakout board to this one. I’m planning to wire the Tone TwEQ in series a’la the Red Special/Tone TwEQ example. However, I’m at a bit of a loss in wiring the 3PDT board into the system. I asked for help at the BYOC forums and the response I got was more complicated than the basic switch wiring and seemed odd to me, not only b/c the breakout boards are supposed to simplify things. So I’m asking for help here.
I designed the enclosure for my Green Pony to use one of those fancy 3PDT switches with the LED ring at the bottom instead of the on board LED.
Looking at the Green Pony board there is an In/Out in the top corners, which seem to correspond to pad numbers 4 & 8 in the switch notch, but I suspect I could just wire directly to the IN/OUT pads.
It looks to me like Pad 2 in the switch notch is 9V+, but I’m at a loss for where ground is.
All of this said, I could just run hookup wire directly to the V+, V-, IN, and OUT pads at the top of the board, but I’m not sure that won’t cook something important.
Did I bite off more than I could chew? It’s starting to look that way, help would be appreciated
photos are, in order, front of board, back of board (need a better picture of this), schematic, and the standard wiring from the instructions.
If you are wiring them in series I am not sure what anyone else is suggesting that is more difficult than this example from the Guides Page that I copy and pasted below. The Tone TweQ is a complete circuit on its own and all you have to do is connect the INs and OUTs just like below. The Pony of course has a different layout but has INs and OUTs just the same.
Obviously due to adding 4 extra pots, footswitch, additional wiring as well as the huge size of the Pony board you will need a larger enclosure than a 125B.
Here is an example Combo Build Wiring Scheme.
Combo Build Guide courtesy of Playsforfun and a Combo Build Thread with examples!
I’m banking on my ability to stack boards and wire the pots to their pads instead of mounting them on the PCB to give me the space to put both in a 1590N1/125B I’ve done a dry run of the layout and it seems to work. I’m waiting for some red candy powder coat to arrive before cutting the design into the existing powder coat.
This is what was suggested to me to wire the 3PDT breakout board. Something about attaching the hot to a diode and completely ignoring the board in/board out pads. I have no idea what the hot wire going to the diode is about, or why any of these choices are were made.
My big concern is making sure I get power flowing through both boards correctly and don’t fry anything in the process. I think I’m going to trace the copper as closely as I can. The problem I run into is that I don’t know what to do when it hits a junction with three components, or even two, that take off in different directions.
Green Pony Circuit Tracing, what I found with a bamboo skewer and back lighting.
Switch pad 1 runs to Indicator LED- then to a resistor and finally to V+
Switch pad 2 runs to neg side of 100uf electrolytic cap then a resistor then has several branches on its way to the ground at the top of the board and flows on to pin 3 of the volume pot, continues around with several branches off to a pair of connected (looks like in series) resistors and then to switch pad 7
Switch pad 4 runs directly to Board In.
Switch pad 5 runs to a resistor then a capacitor, which is connected to the base (center pin) of the only transistor and the collector then on through a few more components before hitting one of the terminals of the B250k dual gang drive knob. The emitter of the transistor connects to both the charge pump and one of the 4558 chips, pin 5 in both cases
Switch pad 7 follows the reverse path of switch pad 2
Switch pad 8 runs directly to Board Out.
may least I’m learning something, I think.
Dear gods, excuse me while I bang my head on the table. The schematic has the foot switch pin out numbered and the pad numbers in what I have been calling the switch notch correspond to the pins on the foot switch and the numbers on the schematic.
Boy is my face red. I think from this point I just need to adjust for the jumper difference (BYOC puts the jumper between 4/9 and 3/6. GPCB jumps 4/6 and 3/9) here I am tracing copper and confusing myself when thirty seconds staring at the schematics answers, I think, most of my question
I may have developed some clue as to what is going on here. After looking at the schematic and comparing it with the hook up it looks like the 4/9 jumper is so the input signal is always being fed into the circuit to reduce popping? Make it less noisy when switching? Keep the circuit “live” so the only thing really being changed is feeding the signal to output or not? I’m sure I’ve read about this arrangement somewhere and there is a reason for it, I just can’t remember what it is right now.
All that said, I think I’m going to need to ignore this corner of the board and do all my hookups at the top of the Green Pony, which leads to longer hookup wire, but I think will still work. I may need to jumper the indicator LED and the CLR attached to it, b/c I think if voltage isn’t flowing through that part of the circuit it isn’t flowing at all. Alternatively I could use it as part of my lighting scheme, b/c I’m laying candy powder coat on to fill the bits I cut out with a laser, so if I put an LED under that, it should give me a cool lighting effect when it’s turned on.
Yeah, I think I’m just going to finish the green pony stock and then move on to a Super Sonic with Tone TwEQ and Buff n Blend.
Trying to sort out how to make the wiring sync up is not only causing a splitting headache, I’m starting to go down and anxiety spiral about it.
On the plus side I now know I’m done with BYOC and will focus my time and money here.
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