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Thanks for checking! I have 3 2N5088s on all 3 right now. I tried a few different replacements today. All 3 of a different type and also 1 different among 2 remaining 2N5088s.
2N2924 2SC1815 did not work at all. Went quiet. With dimed pedal and guitar, some faint fuzz could be noticed.
2N3904 works, but can’t say it’s any big difference.
2N2222A was perhaps a bit treblier and grittier but very hard to tell. Some noise had me confused, but after packing up I realized it was my desktop computer and a lamp.
Will see if there is anything S9013 compatible I can find if not the same.
Hi again @Billy How can you tell for sure which end of a component to solder the wire to?
I mean comparing the board to the schematics, I can make some educated guesses, but there is no guarantee that the connections are facing the shortest way I guess. Trying to shine a bright lamp through the board but not obvious either.
I have power, LED, bypass, and stomp seems to be working. The pots might be affected but seem to be alive, so I see no reason why wiring the pots directly shouldn’t work. But it doesn’t.
2N2924 2SC1815 Turns out I had assumed same pinouts for all, and these weren’t , so I got hfe for them as well. Might keep the pedal as is, sin e the tone is good with the ones that came with. Will probably experiment some other time.
I had the same problem with one of my pedal builds, which was made with veroboard. Two transistor fuzzstortion. My own modifications of a Heathkit TA-28 circuit. The Q1 transistor just wasn’t getting it done so I did a substitution with a comparable transistor. The original schematic called for 2n3391 I found out later wasn’t a typical CBE pin out, but since I couldn’t effectively resocket the 2n3391, I went with the substitute 2n4401, which works fine.
I learned that the pin out was different when I got a transistor tester and discovered the collector, base and emitter arrangement was different than the 2n4401 I tested before it.
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