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I’ve seen some builds that have done it, but I want to confirm the proper wiring. The build document shows how to use a DPDT toggle to engage/disengage the boost, but I want a footswitch and LED that can turn the boost on and off. This is part of a combo build with Emexar and Super Tone boards, with the Afterblaster footswitch controlling the Emexar. I want the Afterblaster to be able to be used with the EQ board bypassed. I’ll also have an order switched toggle for the EQ pre- or post- distortion, and two 2p6t rotaries that select diodes for clipping on the Emexar board.
Any help with where to connect a 3PDT to the dip switch locations on the Afterblaster board and how to connect the LED to the footswitch is appreciated. I think I have it in my head, but want to confirm because desoldering a footswitch is a real bear to deal with. Thanks in advance!
Sure. This is how to put the dips to a DPDT toggle. And the remaining pole will be for the LED, which you can follow any build doc for.
I had seen this and it’s helpful. If I were using a 3PDT board, and I have board in, jack in, board out, and out, with the CLR and LED on the board, how would the 4 wires from the 3PDT board be routed to the dip switch pin holes on the Afterblaster board?
i love the way the board gives a simple but solid mount to the led and have abused Barry’s 3PDT board to my own sinister uses. i have cut the bypass trace to use it more like a DPDT. keep in mind that there is no built in connection to lugs 3 & 9. lugs 4, 5 & 6 still control the led ground connection as normally.
Here is another example to use at your own risk. To use the 3PDT from GPCB, the trace between pads 3 and 9 must be cut. Test with DMM to sure. I’ve never done this before.
I have a huge stack of 3PDT boards from another company and so I’m going to have to go without a board and use the last image posted.
I have two other questions:
I never use two-color LEDs, and I’m generally confused by all the things on this site that do not provide explicit instructions on how to use a standard LED. In this case, I’m using an Emexar board and want the LED on the Emexar board, not the Afterblaster. How would I wire the Emexar board to the Afterblaster board for use with a standard LED?
In the image above for using a footswitch to engage the boost, should I connect the LED to leg 7 or 9?
I have the Emexar board completed with two 2P6T rotaries each for positive and negative clipping, all set and tested. The Afterblaster board is populated and ready to go. The case has the are and the whole thing is ready to house. As soon as I have these questions answered, I’ll be able to finish this up after several short sessions of work fit into a super busy schedule. Can’t wait to finish this up!
thanks for the help!
Also, just to confirm, the wires for the switches in the bottom drawing are the same for all versions of the Afterblaster, correct? I have v2 and my board looks different in a few places.
I decided to give it a go with your diagram and a stomp switch and it worked. I don’t have any of the LEDs soldered up yet to make sure I get both of those set up properly. I’ll get those set after I hear back on the two questions above about the LEDs.
I guessed at it and guessed wrong at first on the LED for the Afterblaster. A single color LED is connected on pin 9. I ran wires from S4-6 of the Emexar to the LED holes on the Afterblaster and that did the trick.
It sounds amazing. I’ll be using the Afterblaster in a few of my builds until I run out of the boards. I’ve been working on creating a double 3PDT board with an onboard buffer and boost using a similar circuit, drawing from aspects of this and an old DOD boost (pretty sure it’s a 410), but with a J201. This build proves that the footswitchable added gain stage is crucial. I can use some germanium diodes and lower gain setting on the distortion and makeup a lot with the boost. Sounds incredible.
You are probably just over thinking the LEDs. If not using common-anode dual-color LEDs then just subtract a leg. With a regular LED you can only alert yourself to one fact. You can show the ‘subject’ to be in the off (no) position or the on (yes) position. One leg to ground and one leg to a CLR that’s connected to + power. On most of Barry’s boards, the white square pad is to indicate bypass mode or off mode. Pretty simple to remember. If showing only that power IS applied or effect active, then avoid the white square pad. Generally, and because I don’t like being limited, I run wires from these pads to the LED that I located wherever I wanted it in my enclosures. If you think about it, Any component from any board can be relocated via wires. The board is just convenience. You say you have trouble reading a schematic still. Try this; grab a fuzz face schematic (something simple) and build it without a board, following the schematic. Tedious but that should bring confidence.
Thanks for the feedback. I don’t have trouble with schematics. I can build an op amp or transistor based distortion from scratch on paper with only needing to peak at LTSpice to confirm values. Generally it’s the electromechanical stuff and components I’ve never used that confuse me. Multipole switching is the thing I’m just starting to figure out.
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