@warteko
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That is quite amazing ! I recall having had problems with the TC1044S charge pump (similar to the TC1660S), some of which staying in the low frequency mode 10 kHz instead of 45 kHz that it should operate at when pin 1 is connected to the + voltage. I had exchanged with Klaus of Musikding about that… and we had concluded the the TC1660S was the way to go as after testing a bunch of them they all correctly switched to 45kHz when asked to do so.
Maybe the problem also occurs now on some batches. Do you have a scope to observe if the output of the pump is modulated at 10 kHz or much higher ?
Hi Andreisidro, a few clarifications :
How comes that your ICs are non marked ? How can you tell the TL 061 from the TL 071 ? MUSIKDING usually ships ICs marked.
After you flipped them ICs “the other way around”, maybe they are burned…
What do you mean by “changed the transistors” ? did you have another set of matched ones ? What exact model do you have ?
Keep on debugging it, this is a lovely pedal !
The first thing that I can think of, check which model of transistors you’ve got : some have the pin pattern reversed and you simply need to insert them the other way in their sockets. That is the case with 2N5457 vs the 2N5952 documented. Also they need to be matched.
Hi Agathe, you definitely have to route the enclosure to the ground.
Simplest way to do it is to have a short piece of bare wire wrapped around one jack’s thread so once the nut is tightened this wire is in contact with the enclosure (trapped between jack’s body & enclosure). Then solder this wire to the ground of the jack. Done !
It’s up to you, Tim. It makes sense to have three LEDS if you want to have information on the complete status of your pedal : main ON/OFF, SPEED (normal/double), KILL (full effect or buffer only). I mean, one LED per foot switch. Of course if you have one or two toggle switches instead of a foot switch, you can look at their position to deduct the status of the setting. As long as you do not play on stage in the dark with a big smoke machine and strobing lights in your eyes…where I would better rely on a good LED.
But the main two color LED is the only one to pulsate with the speed rate. The “speed switch” probably COULD, with a small mod, be made pulsating with the LFO, but this feature is normally for the main switch only and better with the two-color LED.
not bad, but a few comments :
- yes of course the main 3PDT switch is mandatory (at least if you wish to shut down the effect), and not shown on the image which just shows optional add-ons.
- I would not build it like it is on the youtube vid. I would use the housing the other way (horizontal) and make sure there is enough spacing between your foot switches. I would also locate all jacks (in, out, power) on top, to optimise your pedal board population.
- If you prefer to opt for a toggle switch instead of a foot switch for the kill function is perfectly valid a choice. Up to you !
- if you install the board in a housing with component face (not the pcb tracks) visible from the under side, once the lid removed, take care ! The order of the pots will be GAIN, DEPTH, SMOOTH, SPACING & SPEED from right to left on the upper side of the pedal. What you see on the image is the component side, the pedal seen from above will be the other way around. I learned it the hard way on my first build, having printed waterslide decals the wrong way BEFORE populating the board !
- also, there is nothing to physically mount the board inside the housing : it is floating around, only held by the wires !
Hi,
- I am surprised : most footswitches are latching indeed, and I had difficulties to find a non-latching one that I intend to use for the speed boost option. I like the feature of the LED blinking to show the rate of the LFO even when the effect is not engaged (but I know that some people are not comfortable to have a LED “on”… when the effect is off !)
- the only problem with three switches is that you MUST wear cow boy boots with a narrow tip in order to only actuate only one at a time ! With big rounded tips shoes you have to be very careful…or use an even larger box ! I tried to stagger the switches and will probably add a “bumper” to the mid switch.
- yes 2 pole switches are enough for the “kill” and “speed” switches
Looks to me as if the output jack is reverse-wired : black wire from “o” on 3PDT PCB should go to the tip of the jack, not the sleeve. And white wire from main PCB, output side, should go to the ground (sleeve).
Hi, it seems easy, just wire the LED direct on the footswitch using only half of it (or source another single color LED), just like any “standard” pedal.
Also you should have a look at the “LED rate mod” in the forum.Chris
REMOTE SPEED CONTROL via expression pedal
Just to inform that I finally got a stereo jack socket, installed it and it works beautifully to vary the speed from an expression pedal. Therefore I did not have to butcher my beautiful Cry Baby.
Chris “Warteko”
Well I will try to explain what I have done. I am new to this forum, hope I can attach files. First a view of my build :
(Wow, what a big picture ! Wish I knew how to downsize it…)
I usually do waterslides on a light “cream” painted box, but this time was different : I initially wanted to integrate the board into a CRY BABY pedal, so I purchased a second hand one on the net. It was so cool that I no longer wanted to butcher it ! So came the idea of building it in a regular 125B box, and install a jack for an optional remote expression pedal (which I already have). I took a used box, it had unwanted holes from a previous project, so I chose to print the front plate on a grey plastic foil of a metal color, thick enough to mask the holes. “FLAPAFLAP instruments” is my imaginary musical company, just for fun. I do not sell pedals, but I build some for my friends, they have to pay the parts and if they are happy they still can buy me a bottle of good wine.
Now for the mods, here is a PNG of the modified schematic :
I also built the other mods : 45/90, and the C7 mod.
I have not yet installed the socket for the remote expression pedal because I wait delivery of the suitable jack with switched contact & compact size.
That’ it folks !
Chris “Warteko”
Sorry gentlemen : I am stubborn ! Therefore, I did the bicolor / rate LED mod… and it works perfectly !
The return path of the bicolor LED cathodes I connected to the footswitch normally, but the middle contact of the footswitch goes to lug #3 of the pot (instead of 0V). As the footswitch selects either red or green cathode, the LED now blinks the selected color at the rate of the LFO. Simple and easy mod !
While I was it it, I also added a “depth” pot with simply changes a bit the mixing between dry and wet signal (between R17 & R18). I lowered these resistors to 82 k, and inserted a 100 k linear pot (that is the only value I had available). Works far better than the “R30” mod which I had tried before.
Next mod will be a switched jack socket allowing to insert a 100K expression pedal that I have, will replace the speed pot and allow foot control of the speed. A stereo jack allows the use of a shielded cable to the expression pedal, as only two lugs are needed on P1.
Thanks for your answer, Wilkie1, but I still have some concerns around P1 and the LEDs.
First, on the schematics P1 is used as a variable resistor, with lug 1 unconnected. This is confirmed on the PCB, pad for the lug#1 goes… nowhere. Then, why bother to install the red (pink ?) wire on the WIRING picture ? We can save a wire & two solder points.
Secondly it is a mystery to me how the RATE LED can work : once you have fed the anode from 9V through the 3.3k CLR, the LED expects its cathode to be grounded to close the circuit. How can connecting this cathode to the pin 3 of P1 (and pin 6 of IC3) provide such a low resistance path to 0 V ? (BTW on the RATE LED pic, the pots lugs are connected the right way). To the opposite, I feel like this will inject (9V less LED Vdrop) into IC3…
Nevertheless IF THIS WORKS, then the proposed bicolor LED has lots of similarities with the RATE LED mod, as both are fed from 9V with a 3.3 Kohms CLR.
In consequence it should perform exactly the same if I connect either S4 or S6 to pin 3 of P1, through the foot switch,by connecting the green wire of the foot switch (WIRING figure) to pin 3 of P1, instead of S5 (using one half of the bicolor LED at a time).
But again I do not understand how RATE LED cathode goes to ground via the P1 #3 lug…
Chris
