Need help understanding the Apollo Tremolo instructions/parts…

[Anonymous]

Hi there,

I’m trying to figure it a few things about the Apollo Tremolo build…

1. Are there SPST foot switches that aren’t momentary? I can’t seem to find any that are latching… Even so, it’s momentary what I’d want?
2. From your experience, is it better to build the version with a 3PDT and one LED? Or the version with the two foot switches and two LEDs?
3. On the second version with the two foot switches, in the image the switches appear to be 2PDT switches… Is this correct?

Thank you!

Tim

[Christian Wasmer]

Hi,

1. I am surprised : most footswitches are latching indeed, and I had difficulties to find a non-latching one that I intend to use for the speed boost option.  I like the feature of the LED blinking to show the rate of the LFO even when the effect is not engaged (but I know that some people are not comfortable to have a LED “on”… when the effect is off !)
2. the only problem with three switches is that you MUST wear cow boy boots with a narrow tip in order to only actuate only one at a time ! With big rounded tips shoes you have to be very careful…or use an even larger box ! I tried to stagger the switches and will probably add a “bumper” to the mid switch.
3. yes 2 pole switches are enough for the “kill” and “speed” switches

[Anonymous]

Thanks for responding. I get most of what you’re saying — and will put more effort into trying to find a latching SPDT foot switch!

I’m confused by your #3 response, though, as the alternative version in the instructions don’t show three switches (and I’ve never seen a build that showed three switches and two LEDs)…

I guess I am being a little dumb in thinking that the alternative version doesn’t include a 3PDT because the image doesn’t show it, but now that I think about it, it has to, right?

What I’d really like to do is make a two-button / two-LED build like this:

In this case, would I just follow the alternative image and use a toggle for the kill switch and a foot switch for the speed?

Thank you!

Tim

 

[Christian Wasmer]

not bad, but a few comments :

• yes of course the main 3PDT switch is mandatory (at least if you wish to shut down the effect), and not shown on the image which just shows optional add-ons.
• I would not build it like it is on the youtube vid. I would use the housing the other way (horizontal) and make sure there is enough spacing between your foot switches. I would also locate all jacks (in, out, power) on top, to optimise your pedal board population.
• If you prefer to opt for a toggle switch instead of a foot switch for the kill function is perfectly valid a choice. Up to you !
• if you install the board in a housing with component face (not the pcb tracks) visible from the under side, once the lid removed, take care ! The order of the pots will be GAIN, DEPTH, SMOOTH, SPACING & SPEED from right to left on the upper side of the pedal. What you see on the image is the component side, the pedal seen from above will be the other way around. I learned it the hard way on my first build, having printed waterslide decals the wrong way BEFORE populating the board !
• also, there is nothing to physically mount the board inside the housing : it is floating around, only held by the wires !

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. I should have been clearer that I am familiar with building pedals, but I am not an electrical engineer (although, I’m working on it!) — check out circuitous.fx on Instagram. ????????

Also, I’m not interested in the layout in the YouTube example, just the number/kind of knobs/switches…

So, if I’m understanding correctly, I should use the alternate instructions, but use a DTDP toggle for the kill switch and DPDT foot switch for the speed switch. Is this correct?

Thank you! I love learning and this is very helpful to me.

Tim

[Anonymous]

Just a note on the SPDT latching switches.

They are out there but from my experience they are no cheaper than the DPDT latching switches.  The ones I have seen are solder lugs and are like the x-wing DPDT solder lug switches (without the lugs on one side).  I bought quite a few at one time when somewhere had them on clearance but now just buy the DPDT because they have more uses and are generally the same price…just don’t use one side of the switch.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, all. I think I have a pretty good idea of how to proceed now.

Tim

[Anonymous]

Hi all,

I’m back!

I’ve got everything working — almost…

Pictured, is an LED attached to the Speed switch. When Speed is engaged, the indicator is on, but when it’s not, it is off. The LED supposed to pulsate with the tempo of the Tremolo… So what am I missing?

Do I still need to attach an LED to D1? (I haven’t done this, because I thought the other LEDs would suffice.) Should this be a normal LED or the default bi-color LED?

(Also, btw, the other LED shown here is the Kill indicator — which works fine.)

Thank you!

Tim

[Anonymous]

You are almost there.  Yes, you do need the D1 LED if you want to see the flashing rate.  Yes, it should be a bicolor common anode LED in order for it to show both the rate and the status of the effect. Note that you will need to use a 3PDT foot switch wired to the Apollo board to change the status.

That will give you a total of three switches.  A SPEED switch, a KILL switch and a BYPASS switch.

[Anonymous]

Thanks. That makes sense. All of my switches are installed and working. If I add the D1 LED, though, that would give me three LEDs — unless I get rid of the one connected to the Speed switch (shown in the photo). Since every other version I’ve seen of these only has two LEDs, I guess that’s what I should do, right? (I know that’s a subjective question, but I’d love an opinion.)

Thanks!

[Christian Wasmer]

It’s up to you, Tim. It makes sense to have three LEDS if you want to have information on the complete status of your pedal : main ON/OFF, SPEED (normal/double), KILL (full effect or buffer only). I mean, one LED per foot switch. Of course if you have one or two toggle switches instead of a foot switch, you can look at their position to deduct the status of the setting. As long as you do not play on stage in the dark with a big smoke machine and strobing lights in your eyes…where I would better rely on a good LED.

But the main two color LED is the only one to pulsate with the speed rate. The “speed switch” probably COULD, with a small mod, be made pulsating with the LFO, but this feature is normally for the main switch only and better with the two-color LED.

[Anonymous]

Thank you. My thoughts exactly, so I’m glad I was thinking along the correct lines. This has been so helpful!

Tim

[Anonymous]

And, I’m back. ????

Everything’s working…sort of…

Signal is great, LEDs are working, but…

The engaged/oscillating LED comes on when in bypass and goes off when the pedal is on. I’m really quite baffled by this.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Tim

[Anonymous]

Sounds like you A: Used a single color LED.  And B: You wired it into the wrong pads that are only active when in bypass.

Pictures could confirm this.

If you want 2 colors, you need to use a COMMON ANODE bicolor LED.  See the Bill of Materials in the Build Documents for D1.

[Anonymous]

I am using a bicolor CA LED. Maybe the leads/pads are mismatched, though. (Testing while soldering showed it working fine, but it was most likely “fine” while in bypass and I just didn’t know it.)

I’ll try swapping pads and see what happens.

Thanks.

[Anonymous]

Nope. Pads are correct. The light only comes on in bypass. ????????‍♂️

Oh, and sorry about no photos right now. I’m going to keep fiddling around and I’ll post some if I still can’t get it.

[Anonymous]

Double check that it is common anode…I had some that were ordered that way and I got common cathode instead.  Drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong until I looked at them closely and realized I had been sent the wrong ones (not from Barry).

[Author]

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