[Scott Bourgeois]

I was pretty happy with the way it turned out. I sold it and will probably build another one

[Scott Bourgeois]

I’m using adhesive white vinyl and my inkjet printer. I tried the water slide decals but found it too finicky for larger pedals.

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

Each one has a wide variety of tones that compliment the rest of my pedal board of mostly DIY pedals

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

SOLVED!

Thanks Barry,

One of the electrolytic caps had the wrong value and 2 resistors as well. I must have been asleep at the wheel.

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

Awesome, Thanks!

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

The tremolo works great but the depth pot has very little control. At zero it’s still “tremolloing” alot

[Scott Bourgeois]

The clear top is quite thick (1/8inch) and because the switches are close to the edge it is sturdy enough for my stomping. I thought about glue in a  piece of angle stock to add support but so far I don’t need it.

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

Solved!! Thanks Barry, I guess I’ve been lucky so far and not had faulty components on most of my other 50 + builds) . Q5 was defective, replaced it with a reputable J201.

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

Got the tremolo working by replacing Q3 (2N5457 )but the tremolo effect is very faint or weak even at full depth

[Scott Bourgeois]

Thanks Barry,

I am in the process of replacing the footswitch wires. I am aware of the potential of potentiometer backs shorting out the circiuit. I have them raised and have plastic covers on order.   Will be double checking components and all of the othere suggestions.

Thanks For your help

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

I replaced the double LEDs with a bi color one and it works as it should but still no sound when Tremolo switch engaged at all when kill switch is on or off. A25k and B250k pots are at full.  Clean signal when tremolo footswitch is off. The Led flashes the tempo as it should when tremolo foot switch is engaged but no sound at all.  .

[Scott Bourgeois]

Thanks for the tip. I cobbled one together with a radio, a mini guitar amp some alligator clips and a probe. Seems to work well.

 

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

With a 9.25v Power Supply

PT2399

1=4.9v

2=2.4v

3=0v

4=0v

5=4.4v

6=2.4v

7=0.7v

8=0.7v

9 thru 16 = 2.4v

TL072

1=4.4v

2=4.4v

3=4.3v

4=0

5=4.4v

6=4.4v

7=4.4

8=8.9v

1n4001= 4.9v

1n5817= 9.0v

78L05 between 1and 2 Out/GND 4.9v,  2 and 3 GND Input 8.9v,  1 and 3 3.98

Bi Colour common cathode LED =8.9v

[Scott Bourgeois]

<p class=”p1″>3.91 on the TL072</p>
<p class=”p1″>1.7 on the PT2399</p>
<p class=”p1″>4.991 on the L78L05</p>
<p class=”p1″>2.6V at Diode 1n4001</p>
<p class=”p1″>293mV at Diode 1n5817</p>

[Scott Bourgeois]

Hi Billy, The socket notch is in backwards I now  have the PT2399 with the notch facing the correct way now. My Bi colour LED came from a local store Has a common anode and I tested it with a 3 volt battery pack. Still nothing

 

 

[Scott Bourgeois]

Hi Barry,  D”layV3 still not working. I have checked all resistors, caps, diodes, Replaced transistor and swapped both ICs. I have voltage at the Bi LED

I have clean signal in bypass. Engaged I get  an extremely quiet distorted echoed signal when engaged. The Bi LED has been tested good but does not light up.

Bare bones photos attached

[Scott Bourgeois]

I discovered that my output jack was shorting out against the copper shielding. I now have a bypass signal but no effect or bi color LED when on or off. Transistor gets warm.

[Author]

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