@robertjay
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BOOM. Thanks Barry! YEs all of this came to be and we have a few solutions on hand for if this arises again. For a BYOC, I have to use the pcb integrated footswitch and move the SEND of the BNB to after the 10uF cap. But with most other PCB’s I can use the BnB as intended with its footswitch. Thanks for the confirmation.
Hello there, I just saw this. I had a big issue with high gain preamp pcb’s. I had no idea they were so noisy with a high frequency squeal and all kinds of unwanted noise. On my test bench, I play prerecorded loops through a boss pedal. The preamp builds sounded amazing, until we plugged it in at home … No buffer in front!. All attempts to reroute and isolate audio from power wires helped a little bit, but wasn’t half as quiet when a boss pedal was in front of it. Might a buffer pcb in front of the preamp quiet the circuit? I want to say yes, based on the above stated closing line.
“Noisy builds are often noisy without a buffer in front of it when there is a great enough impedance mismatch between the pedal and what is feeding it.”
So it should, as long as the unwanted noise is in fact due to mismatched impedance… Yeah? I will likely build one and see what happens on a noisy build.
Also… I have since gone over this, isolated the fuzz from the Buff n Blend from power and audio. The Buff n Blend is creating the loud pop when the other circuit’s foot switch is turned on/off. What might this be? These are the 2 schematics… And here is a new thought. Someone looked at the BnB schematic and said that the send part of the blend has dc on the send-signal. Might be causing the pop. Try to put in a cap between. Why would he say this? Is it because the send is fed from the MP102 Tranny Emitter? Do we have more than just boosted signal coming out of the 102?
Hello boys. Joey Z From Life Of Agony Is Also A Very Happy Recipient Of His Own Signature Sound In A Pedal. His Mesa Dual Rec Sound On The Go… Thanks Again!!!
<p style=”padding-left: 40px;”>Hey, that bad boy. 9 gain stages! This thing must overdrive by default. Haha. Killer SVT, literally. Thanks! Can’t wait. This one is going to Alan Roberts, Life of Agony Bassist. His fav sound is rage against the machine evil empire. Gonna have this svt preamp and a cranky Charles in 1 enclosure. That’s supposed to he the secret sound of that album. We’ll see.</p>
Today I came across a new finding. At work, I use a boss loop pedal to play riffs and test notes loaded in. The buffered boss circuit hides problems that I only see at home plugged into a guitar, and now I know, unbuffered. May have been the issue with this one too….
So ultimately… What pot are we using for the Gain? New build, no need to bridge a resistor across the back of 1&3?… Or do we still use a B500k with the 1m resistor?…
Aside from that C8 2n2 vs 2n7, I found no mismatches or discrepancies. I have another one here populated and ready to go… Will test it now to see if it boosts as well…. And guess what. Sounds great. I used a dB meter app on my phone and the boost is minimal. 3dB max. Nominal. I plugged in the pedal that started my investigation and it was perfect. No major boost as I saw over the weekend. I am sorry to have brought this here just to be what is my mistake in my playback? I am at work going through a 15 watt Marshall combo amp and it sounds great. At home going direct from the pedal into a ZOOM H6 recorder was taking me from -16dB on the digital channel meter into the red. That’s not happening here. I’m curious as to why and will have to check the amp schematics. Perhaps some buffer or onboard compression? Will see. Thank you, and I’m trying to not be so quick to post on the problem forum. Thanks!!!
Shouldn’t be a major thing, but I see a discrepancy with C8. The parts list has it at 2n2 but the schematic has a 2n7. My builds have a 2n2 there.
I included the pic with and without flash only after going through all resistors. They all match what they should be as far as I see. I will check the caps as well…
Yes. I have 2 sets of build guides for the newer style pcb. They both have 34 resistors, but different values are in place for some. Now how do I know what pcb I have based on looking at it? I will obviously compare to the schematic and trace out my path. I’ll know within the first few components, just asking…
I just had another thought…. How many versions might there be out there? How do I know if I have the old one or the New one. I know it’s a new one… It takes both chips, has the pads for the jumpers to accommodate either IC. But I see there may be multiple versions of the new version. Some build guides are in red, the newer one is in green. I’ll be investigating and comparing. I’ll check both build docs. Thanks…
I see that Barry chimed in somewhere but can’t find his thread. He suggests that perhaps there was a parts bag with a wrong value, which sure does happen. I’ll be sure to check over carefully. I assembled 3 or 4 at a time, so we shall see what is found. Thanks all
