- This topic has 14 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 2 weeks ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Got some great help here to get my Zoso Tone build started. I ordered the kit from SmallBear Electronics, which made it WAY easier to get the components I need, and they are labeled very clearly.
I wasn’t too happy with the soldering on the line of resistors to the left, for some reason I just couldn’t get it right, but finally did. It looks a bit ugly, but I think it’ll work.
Questions:
- For the footpedal switches and order switch, I know they can only fit a certain way since the holes are rectangular, but other than that, there isn’t a certain front/back/left/right for those switches, correct? I can just mount them as they fit?
- For shorting the LED, if I use the LED’s on the boards themselves, I short the holes on the dual wiring board, correct? But if I use the board I short the ones on the individual boards? And to short them it’s just a blob of solder connecting both holes?
The switches only fit one of two orientations as you see and it doesn’t matter which one.
If you ordered a pre-drilled enclosure from Tayda then the LEDs are mounted on the wiring board so you will need to short the Main Board LED pads and I would use a trimmed component lead to do that and not just a solder bridge.
As for the soldering just take your time and develop your technique. I assume you are using a fine conical tip that is tinned well. Hold the hot tip (650-675°F) to the pad and component lead at the same time for 5 seconds before applying your 63/37 tin/lead solder. Cold solder joints are the #1 reason for a build error. Also if you are not happy with a solder joint simply go back and re-flow it with your freshly tinned iron. That is the #1 troubleshooting tip that fixes most build errors.
From our previous thread be sure to check out the other builds on our forum:
Here is one Zoso Tone build and here is alternate Zoso Tone build that you can use as a visual reference.
Yea, that’s what I meant.. the orientation.
I use a TS-100 soldering iron, and I do have a fine conical tip. I’ll look at it closer tomorrow to see if I do need to reflow.
I did get the box from Tayda, it should arrive tomorrow.
I have those 2 threads pinned in my browser and use them as a reference. Thanks for the links.
So… I think I screwed up…
I made sure to be SO careful about soldering, and where things go, and all that…
I got everything soldered and wired. Put it in the box. Powered it up. No LED’s.
I thought there was a problem, but I connected a guitar, and it actually was working. I messed with the controls for a bit, just to make sure, and all was ok. I took it back to the bench and realized… I soldered everything to the dual wiring board upside down! A lot of 4-letter words came rolling out..
I never had any luck using a soldering sucker or wick, but I tried, and I couldn’t remove the PCBs from the dual wiring board. So… is it a major problem that the board is upside down? Before I soldered the LEDs I made triple sure that the positive went to positive, and the negative went to negative. So, other than having the board upside down, I can’t figure out what is wrong. I did jumper the LED locations on the Fuzz and Amp PCBs, using a spare piece of wire snipped from a resistor.
I’m taking a break before I mess it up any more…
And yea, I just saw the writing on the board about the switches… ugh… I managed to get the board off, hoping I didn’t damage the fuzz or amp PCBs. I’ll buy new stomps and a switch, was able to save the resistors.
Totally my fault…
Hey the great news is the pedals worked. here are some tips.
de-soldering takes some finesse. I does help to add just a little more solder first, the extra flux helps the old solder flow. Also try to find a good solder suck, Soldapult brand work well.
Always try to preserve the main board and do your de-soldering on the less expensive or more durable components.
when you have a row of pads to de-solder like the ribbon cable you can try using a piece of solid wire to distribute the heat while gently trying to pull it loose.
I Hope that helps
She is complete, and working!!!
After that stupid mistake of flipping the dual wiring board, I actually had a spare, due to it coming with the kit I ordered from SmallBear Electronics. I just had to order 2 stomps and the toggle switch. But it’s all wired up, buttoned up, and tested. I’ll have more time over the weekend to actually sit with it and figure it out. Can’t wait!!!!!
And thanks Barry and brd for the help!!!
Sweet! Looks great.
I really like the WattAmp, I play direct into a PA sometimes and it is one of my favorite amp-sim pedals. It’s great for Gilmore tones too. Enjoy it, you earned it.
What’s next?
Looks fantastic, and thanks for sharing!
The first one is always the hardest. While there is still plenty of great stuff to learn it will all come much easier now.
I am actually thinking of the Metal Godz. The tone on that is amazing! Being I’m a fan of classic rock (Zeppelin), and 80’s hair metal/heavy metal, the Godz just might fit the 80’s part.
If you are interested here is a link to purchase a copy of my Staff Shirt from an iconic 1980 gig at the Stanley Theater in Pittsburgh while they are there. What a show with a ton of stories and memories.
Full Concert audio from this show
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.