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Hello folks,
I am fairly certain I can do what I intend, but want to pass it by you here first. I am wanting to modify the Mini Me Chorus for cap switching, but don’t want to use a SP4T rotary switch. I built a clone of this circuit years ago with a Tonepad PCB. Building another now. However, I wanted to do some cap switching with a SPDT On-Off-On.
Can I just connect a 47pf to the center lug, 100pf to an outer lug, and a 270pf to the other outer lug. Then connect all caps together and route that to one of the pads for C18. Then route the other pad for C18 to the center lug on the SPDT On-Off-On? This should get me 47pf in the middle, 147pf to one side and 317pf to the other side.
I would think this would give me enough variation? Get’s me close to the stock 150pf, and then below and above near tot he extremes from the roto-tone mod (33pf and 330pf).
Thoughts? I want to keep it simple and also still use the 125B box that came with the Das Muskiding kit, as I figure I will have space for that switch in there, but not a rotary switch.
That will place caps in series. That does not add together like resistors.
Use this formula:
Maybe I wasn’t clear. I am asking about using a single pole, double throw, on-off-on toggle. In this case, I should get the cap value off the middle lug, or I get the middle lug plus either side added when switched to that side. This would just give me 3 options for different cap values, rather than the 4 on the RotoTone mod.
Does this make sense? The caps would be in parallel in my example as shown in this crappy drawing.
Your SPDT (On-Off-On) 3-way toggle switch will work, but I found the SPDT 3-way toggle insufficient to provide the ‘ORDER’ I wanted, and found a working solution with a DPDT 3-way toggle. I wanted my 3-way toggle to work in descending and ascending order when actuated back & forth. Here’s what I did for one of my Mini-Me builds. It uses a DPDT 3-way (On-On-On) toggle switch instead of the 4-way rotary switch to get 3 unique depth ranges and save a few mm space to get the whole thing stuffed into a 1590B enclosure.
And here’s a modified version of Wilikie1’s “Depth Range Mod” diagram also showing the DPDT (On-On-On) 3-way toggle switch.
And finally, a gutshot of the completed project . . . .
Thanks for the info! I might have some DPDT On-On-On here somewhere. I have to look. I get your point about having the mod go sequentially in intensity. I am going to use a box that is already drilled for this one, so am trying to get the smallest solution possible. Might be able to the get DPDT in there. Have to look.
Not sure if I should ask here, or in a new thread, but I recall there being a speed modification for this circuit that involves switching C21 to something like 0.47uF (putting a SPST switch in there to go between that and the stock 2.2uF). Has anyone done that? I believe the 0.47uF will give you much faster range for the speed.
Lastly, what about a pulsing LED for a status light with an LED from pin 1 of the LM358 through like a 100ohm resistor. This should work, yes?
I stand corrected. I thought your wiring was in series. You are correct that they need to be in parallel to add together. Cybercow’s solution is even better in my opinion.
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